Best bubble level location?

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Oct 19, 2025
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I'm setting up my Tikka 7 PRC and I'm trying to find some scope rings I like. The Hawkins long range hybrid rings look intriguing. 25 moa, direct mount, and they come with an integrated level on top of the rear ring. My question is, is this a useful location for a bubble level? Do you need to be able to see the bubble level when looking through the scope? I've been shooting my whole life but I'm somewhat new to long range/precision shooting. Haven't used a bubble level before.
 
You need to be able to check whether the scope is level while on the scope.

Depending on the position of the rear ring, eye relief of the scope, size of the maintube, and size of the ocular housing, the top ring-half on the rear ring can be a great or awful place for it.

A bubble level coming off the maintube on whichever side of the scope your non-dominant eye is on will always be a good option.
 
Had to look those up. The actual top of the rear ring brings additional height with edges to catch on a scabbard or whatever -- and useless while you're in the scope. I'll pass.

Off-hand side of the forward ring (or somewhere near that) is workable with both eyes open IME.
 
Had to look those up. The actual top of the rear ring brings additional height with edges to catch on a scabbard or whatever -- and useless while you're in the scope. I'll pass.

Off-hand side of the forward ring (or somewhere near that) is workable with both eyes open IME.
Right really cool having the 25 moa built in direct mount but it seems like a huge design oversight with the level location. Shame. Since I'll have to go with a rail now to get 20 moa, how do we feel about rail mounted or integral rail levels?
 
You need to be able to check whether the scope is level while on the scope.

Depending on the position of the rear ring, eye relief of the scope, size of the maintube, and size of the ocular housing, the top ring-half on the rear ring can be a great or awful place for it.

A bubble level coming off the maintube on whichever side of the scope your non-dominant eye is on will always be a good option.
Yeah ocular housing on the trijicon tenmile 3-18 is pretty beefy, I think the level would be useless while looking down the scope.
 
Not a useful place for a level. They sell a bare top ring though.

I prefer tube mounted or adjustable levels, because you can then adjust them to where they say your level when your reticle is plumb.

I prefer a level off the side above my parralax turret, where I can view my turret and level without lifting my head.
 
Had to look those up. The actual top of the rear ring brings additional height with edges to catch on a scabbard or whatever -- and useless while you're in the scope. I'll pass.

Off-hand side of the forward ring (or somewhere near that) is workable with both eyes open IME.

I've got a similar set on a bolt gun - the bigger problem is usability while in the scope, for sure. Unfortunately though, on that gun it's the only really usable option I have though, as it does not have a pic rail.

On the one AR I have a level on, it's actually mounted halfway down the handguard - that was as close as I could get it while still being able to focus on it. Eyes aren't what they used to be. But even that far out the level is pretty usable.
 
On top of that I want my levels in the same place on every rifle. A tube mounted level allows that. Part of my shot process is looking at the level. If one is not there I end up looking at nothing, it’s nearly automatic given the time to run my shot process through my brain.
 
On one rifle, I have an older SWFA one I got for free that mounts on the tube. I don’t care for that one.

I much prefer the UM one that mounts behind the front scope ring off the left side on the rail. I have that on two Tikkas and two Mausers.
 
I much prefer the UM one that mounts behind the front scope ring off the left side on the rail.
I would have preferred it to be in front of my front ring, but the Tikka dovetail was about 1 mm short. Mounted behind, it just fits -- and (despite that fact that my middle-aged eyes don't really focus that close) I can still see the bubble well enough to make a correction without leaving the scope eyebox.

Mounting on the tube gives me the willies -- now I have to worry about the scope shifting in the mounts and the level shifting on the scope.
 
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