My point wasn’t that he should feel comfortable out to 1,000. My point was that his rifle is sufficient for hunting.
He said he’s shooting <1.5 MOA — so I extrapolated a worse MOA out to a very far distance to make that point.
Edit: typo
Totally, that make sense.Just had to throw qualifiers out there because lots of people think that way without adequately accounting for additional impacts at further ranges.
Asking for genuine knowledge; can you explain this statement? If a gun shoots 1MOA 20-shot groups, then theoretically it’s worst case scenario is 1MOA.On average, factory "match" ammo should be grouping about 1/2 to 5/8 MOA for 5-shot groups, about 3/4 to 7/8 moa for 10-shot groups, and about 1-moa for 20 shot groups.
In very well built custom rifles, maybe. In most factory rifles, absolutely not.On average, factory "match" ammo should be grouping about 1/2 to 5/8 MOA for 5-shot groups, about 3/4 to 7/8 moa for 10-shot groups, and about 1-moa for 20 shot groups.
No. There's still variability in 20 shot groups. Out of an accuracy fixture it takes somewhere around 50 shots to get little to no variability from group to group.Asking for genuine knowledge; can you explain this statement? If a gun shoots 1MOA 20-shot groups, then theoretically it’s worst case scenario is 1MOA.
Yes, the only way to know the actual precision capability of the system is to shoot a large enough sample size. His equations don't match the average shooter or rifles numbers, it's been brought up in multiple posts. He's an excellent shooter with excellent equipment, and never misses an opportunity to interject his superior results as though it should apply across the broad spectrum of shooters, but it doesn't.I can see how lower round groups might and likely will shoot smaller spread due to random variance, but they could also print the same worst case 1MOA, right? So shouldn’t the larger round count be the defining feature, not the smaller ones?
The point is that I am an average shooter, I use the same equipment available to everyone, and I exclusively shoot factory ammo. I'm not unique, I'm doing nothing special, and I represent the floor of possibility - not the ceiling.
Group sizes typically follow a normal distribution
(unless you have a shooter and/or gear issue) and group sizes should always be defined by round count and distance (at a minimum). If you shoot enough and track your data, you will see that group size will grow with higher round counts at a predictable scale
(again, unless you have a shooter and/or gear issue). The group size of a 20-shot sample is not worst case as worst case is only really known once you've shot out the barrel and tracked every single shot. That is obviously an unreasonable approach, but we can look at known probabilities to make accurate predictions.
This table correlating round count to group size has been shown to be accurate and repeatable in the real world.
View attachment 580537
I think you are reading way too far into my posts. The point is that I am an average shooter, I use the same equipment available to everyone, and I exclusively shoot factory ammo. I'm not unique, I'm doing nothing special, and I represent the floor of possibility - not the ceiling.
I’m not a well versed long range guy, but have spent a good bit of time shooting from 1-300 yards. I have a t3x with factory stock and always felt it was sufficient, but maybe I don’t know what I’m missing. Can you explain what an upgraded stock does for accuracy/consistency at range?For me it’s the stock and it’s not even close. The 300wm in a tikka stock was borderline unshootable. In an AG composites it’s a completely different rifle.
My father in law, not sure if he’s ever fired a center fire rifle, made a first round impact at 600 yards with my upgraded tikka on a 12” steel. Skip the course, get a stock and some extra ammo!
Speaking of what the OP is asking, read the thread title.In the context of this thread, where the OP is looking to increase performance, should we look towards what performance is achievable by those that have sub-par equipment and don't practice? That approach simply makes zero sense to me.
Nice answer.This is a big reason why I'd dump that Tikka and go with something else.
Oh boy, here we goOne of the first things I'd try is the ECtuner. It maybe the cheapest out of your other options. Or get into reloading where you can explore seating depths.
I’ve got a Tikka T3 in 7RM. It is bedded in a B&C Sporter stock, has an APR brake, and an LRHS scope. I have a suppressor on order. The barrel has about 600 rounds through it. I shoot factory ammo - 162gr Hornady Precision Hunters. I rarely shoot better than 1 MOA with a 5 shot group, prone or bench rest off a bipod and rear bag.
I also have a training rifle and I’ve done one long range shooting course already. I’ve increased the frequency and volume of my shooting, but it hasn’t seemed to tighten any of my groups up, although my proficiency is higher. My goal is to increase my/weapons combined accuracy to consistently get 1 MOA or better with a 10 round group. I’d like your thoughts on where to invest my time and money to improve performance.
I find that as well with mine. I know Form says it’s not a thing, but it sure seems to be consistent for me.I’m no expert but here is what I ran into with mine.
I had similar issues with factory ammo for my 300wm but saw a lot of improvement when I started hand loading for my Tikka (before I replaced everything). I did have issues with the barrel getting hot if I didn’t wait long enough between shots shooting for groups, those magnum cartridges in skinny barrels get hot fast and could be causing your groups to open a bit.
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I find that as well with mine. I know Form says it’s not a thing, but it sure seems to be consistent for me.
Vertical stringing (up) is what I tend see. Perhaps mirage, perhaps me. No L/R deviation. Just 2-3 shots in a tight cluster, then they start climbing. I’m out of town, but I think I have a few targets that show it.Are you positive it’s not barrel mirage? And what do you find consistent? That the groups get bigger as you fire more rounds?
This group was shot with the suppressor hot enough water was sizzling, the barrel would burn you-
View attachment 580914
This was shot ten rounds later, and the barrel now was to the point that water sizzled on it-
View attachment 580916
Barrel mirage from heat will effect groups, but it isn’t the barrel being hot causing issues. It’s the mirage effecting the apparent image. Using mirage shields with properly stress relieved and assembled rifles, I have shot dozens and dozens of thin barreled rifles including large magnums, to where they burned you when you touched them- and with a mirage shield the apparent cone was unchanged from “cold”. There is lots of issues that can make things appear as if they are causing things, it doesn’t mean they are.
I would sell my children to be able to have groups like that.Are you positive it’s not barrel mirage? And what do you find consistent? That the groups get bigger as you fire more rounds?
This group was shot with the suppressor hot enough water was sizzling, the barrel would burn you-
View attachment 580914
This was shot ten rounds later, and the barrel now was to the point that water sizzled on it-
View attachment 580916
Barrel mirage from heat will affect groups, but it isn’t the barrel being hot causing issues. It’s the mirage effecting the apparent image. Using mirage shields with properly stress relieved and assembled rifles, I have shot dozens and dozens of thin barreled rifles including large magnums, to where they burned you when you touched them- and with a mirage shield the apparent cone was unchanged from “cold”. There is lots of issues that can make things appear as if they are causing things, it doesn’t mean they are.
IME I can usually shoot 5 before mirage starts to become apparent, and I sure as hell hope I never need to shoot more than 5 in a hunting situation so I don't do it at the range either. I also don't shoot in hot weather, at most in the summer I go early mornings and setup a canopy. If I were in this situation, I would shoot a 10-15 shot group of 3 shot strings, letting the barrel cool in between. That should give you a decent baseline to work off of.Vertical stringing (up) is what I tend see. Perhaps mirage, perhaps me. No L/R deviation. Just 2-3 shots in a tight cluster, then they start climbing. I’m out of town, but I think I have a few targets that show it.
I tried 7-8 different factory loads: partitions, accubonds, berger HH, Barnes TTSX and another Barnes, maybe a couple I can’t recall. The ELDX was the best. This was in both the 6.5 and the 7mm. I have found that either my chrono is off or the MV varies widely. I buy in bulk and only shoot the same lot #, btw.IME I can usually shoot 5 before mirage starts to become apparent, and I sure as hell hope I never need to shoot more than 5 in a hunting situation so I don't do it at the range either. I also don't shoot in hot weather, at most in the summer I go early mornings and setup a canopy. If I were in this situation, I would shoot a 10-15 shot group of 3 shot strings, letting the barrel cool in between. That should give you a decent baseline to work off of.
I mentioned in a previous comment I have not had great results with Hornady Match or Precision Hunter in a couple factory Tikkas, and a Rem 700. It might be worthwhile to try a different ammo. Also, in my 7RM a 160 class bullet and around 69gr of H1000 with a magnum primer was pretty much an easy button, you might reach out to a reloader and see if you can get something worked out.
I think that's just the nature of the beast with factory ammo in some rifles. I know there are members that will post a thousand pages of data disputing that ideology, but here's a small sample of exactly the same issue. This is a factory Tikka in 6.5 PRC, shooting 147 ELD-M. 14 shots total, pic is of a 10 shot group, then made an adjustment and sent 4 more at a different POA to confirm zero. I trust my chrono and have compared it with another to verify.I tried 7-8 different factory loads: partitions, accubonds, berger HH, Barnes TTSX and another Barnes, maybe a couple I can’t recall. The ELDX was the best. This was in both the 6.5 and the 7mm. I have found that either my chrono is off or the MV varies widely. I buy in bulk and only shoot the same lot #, btw.
Vertical stringing (up) is what I tend see. Perhaps mirage, perhaps me. No L/R deviation. Just 2-3 shots in a tight cluster, then they start climbing. I’m out of town, but I think I have a few targets that show it.