Bergara versus Tikka

[T Snipes]

Hi all,

With the very exciting news of new stock orders opening up, my waffling is getting forced to a decision… I’m trying to decide whether to cut down a tikka in 7 mag or 300 win, or get a 22” fluted threaded bergara. I hunt suppressed.

I currently hunt with a 14 lb r700 Sendero in 7 mag (26” plus suppressor) so even a drop down to 10 lbs would be massive.

The pencil barrels on the tikkas just kinda irk me! Am I wrong? The profiles on the bergara wilderness Sierra really seem to be just right. Thicker, fluted, 22”, threaded. It’s about the same price as just chopping and threading a tikka.

Thoughts?

I should add that I’m in northeast Idaho. Steep mountains. I’ve lugged that heavy rifle around and killed many things over probably 7 years with it, but it’s a burden.

I also bought and sold a Seekins Element in 300 win several years back because I couldn’t spot my hits due to muzzle flip. I’m hoping the Rokstock will fix that. I also shot a Christensen Mesa in 300 win that I slapped in a Magpul Hunter, but although it shot well I didn’t like the hotdog in a hallway look so I shipped it and went back to Old Faithful, which has been good to me.

Limited funds so I must be smart here.

Signed,

Light-Rifle-Curious

 

[Brontosaurus]

Hi all,

With the very exciting news of new stock orders opening up, my waffling is getting forced to a decision… I’m trying to decide whether to cut down a tikka in 7 mag or 300 win, or get a 22” fluted threaded bergara. I hunt suppressed.

I currently hunt with a 14 lb r700 Sendero in 7 mag (26” plus suppressor) so even a drop down to 10 lbs would be massive.

The pencil barrels on the tikkas just kinda irk me! Am I wrong? The profiles on the bergara wilderness Sierra really seem to be just right. Thicker, fluted, 22”, threaded. It’s about the same price as just chopping and threading a tikka.

Thoughts?

I should add that I’m in northeast Idaho. Steep mountains. I’ve lugged that heavy rifle around and killed many things over probably 7 years with it, but it’s a burden.

Signed,

Light-Rifle-Curious

The Tikka CTR is your Huckleberry sir

Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor SS 20.0" Barrel Rifle JRTXC382S | Flat Rate Shipping! - EuroOptic

Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor SS 20.0" Barrel Rifle JRTXC382S | Only at EuroOptic.com!

www.eurooptic.com

 

[low2497]

Any particular reason the Tikka lite profile irks you? If you’re worried about groups opening up, this is the first group I shot out of a brand new Tikka Lite 6.5 PRC with 156gr factory Bergers. 9 shots at 0.897”.

 

[Matt5266]

Fellow idahoan here,

First your not going to spot your shots in a lightweight 7 or 300 mag.

I've had 2 bergara rifles and also have tikkas. I do not own any of the bergara anymore. They both needed sent back to the factory for work. I'll never own a other.

I love the Tikkas. I lugged a heavy 300 WSM around the idaho back country for years. I absolutely love that gun and will never sell it. But I also dont carry it much anymore.

I am not sure if you reload but my advice would be grab a tikka in a lighter recoiling cailber and cut the barrel down to around 18 inches if you want to spot shots, drop some weight, and make it better to carry with a can on it. I carried a 18" tikka in 223 last year for deer. If 223 isnt your thing I'd suggest .243 , 6 creed , 22 creed, or 6.5 creed. All will work for animals we have in Idaho. A light 6.5 is going to be pushing it though for most to spot impacts but it is doable.

 

[ElPollo]

Seconding @low2497. My T3x light profile barrels regularly put 10 rounds into 0.7-1.2” and don’t have POI shifts with heat. If you want a slightly thicker and heavier barrel, the rough tech models fill that bill. There are also varmint profiled barrels of want to fully forego a lighter weight rifle. The new TIkka lite/superlite/roughtech models are now all coming threaded and will have a slightly heavier profile because the end of the barrels are flared to allow 5/8 threads.

But the real difference between Tikka vs R700 is the smoothness and reliability of the Tikka action and trigger. There’s really not much out there that can match it for under $2k. See these posts for reliability testing:

Thread 'Ice/snow comparison between rifles'

Dec 22, 2022

I have been asked by multiple people to do an ice and snow reliability eval between rifles/actions/triggers. Tthis is not a “test”, it is just a view at what generally happens. Doing a legitimate test requires more rifles and consistent conditions than I have. So…


The rifles:

1). Tikka T3 in KRG Bravo chassis

2). Sauer 100 factory

3). Howa 1500 Alpine factory

4). Remington M7 with TT trigger and Bansner stock

5). Winchester Pre 64 M70 factory

6). Tikka T3 factory

7). Sako TRG 42 factory





This will be done in multiple steps, worst case working back back to easy...

• Formidilosus
• Replies: 314
• Forum: Firearms

• 

Thread 'Rifle ice/snow freeze eval 2025'

Jan 11, 2025

2025’s ice and snow comparison/reliability eval between rifles/actions/triggers. As last year, this is not a “test”, it is just a view at what generally happens. Doing a legitimate test requires more rifles and consistent conditions than I have. So…


The rifles:

1). Tikka T3 in Rokstok

2). MRC in wood Rokstok

3). R700 short action, factory trigger

4). BAT Hammer Head with Bix N Andy Tacsport trigger in chassis




This will be done in multiple steps, from near worst case working back to easy- to see any differences that show themselves. Every rifle is started in exactly...

• Formidilosus
• Replies: 185
• Forum: Firearms

• 
• 

The biggest limitation on Tikkas is really the stock. Most of them are adequate in terms of stiffness and can be improved with the addition of their verticals grip module and their comb riser, but they are not the best design for recoil control. There are a ton of options out their to upgrade those stocks though.

 

[Drenalin]

I had a Bergara, just the B-14 Hunter in .30-06. I don't have it any more. It was never particularly impressive in any way - no more accurate than anything else, not a great stock, meh trigger, just a utilitarian rifle. The action was really smooth though, if you're into that.

I've never owned a Tikka, but Europtic has a bunch of them on sale right now so I ordered two this past weekend; hopefully I like them as much as everyone else seems to.

 

[HairyScandinavian]

OP, I have the Bergara Sierra 20" you mentioned in 6.5 PRC and I absolutely love the way the factory stock sets up and fits me, great shooter and very happy with it. Fast forward to about a month ago and I shot my first Tikka, it's the Roughtech Superlite 20" in 6.5 CM. I'll probably never shoot the Bergara again. I know it sounds dramatic but it's really not that much, just a couple simple things for me. The Bergara comes in at 9 lbs 2 oz scoped and the Tikka comes in at 7 lbs 3 oz scoped and they both use the same suppressor so that's a wash. The calibers overlap so much that they're also a wash. Tikka shoots a little better groups for me straight out of the box with factory stock and all.

 

[RWT]

I have multiple of both Tikka and Bergara over the last few years. I have less than a year with the Tikkas due to this site. The ONLY Bergara's I have seen shoot well are in 6.5 CM. I had to send a 223 back and they sent me an entirely new rifle as it would not group with 9 different types of ammo. Had a 308 - didn't group. So of the 9 total Bergara's I have shot I can state only 4 shot well enough to keep and they were all in 6.5 CM. A premier Canyon, 2 Ridge SP's, 1 HRT, all shot sub MOA. The others were sub 2" guns

I have 4 Tikkas now and they all shoot sub MOA without much work. If I have to recommend one to a friend now I am recommending Tikkas.

 

[NSI]

This is a lot simpler than you're making it out to be.

1) Consistency. Some Bergaras shoot, some have issues. Incidences of Tikkas that don't shoot are so rare that they are noteworthy. This is despite the light barrel contour. That barrel contour essentially does not matter through 10 round rapid strings as has been demonstrated in the hot barrel tests done here. Stresses in the barrel cause barrels to walk while hot. These stresses can be somewhat hidden by thickness, but we generally don't consider that the optimal approach. The cold hammer forged Tikka barrels are both phenomenally consistent and resistant to walking when hot due to their lack of internal stress.

2) Trigger mechanism. All R700 trigger mechanisms regardless of aftermarket nature (with the notable exception of the unobtanium Geissele super 700 discontinued mil drop tested trigger) are making a safety and cold weather reliability tradeoff relative to the stock free Tikka trigger.

Beyond that, my man, the choice is up to you.

-J

 

[Schmo]

what he said

 

[kkp005]

I’ve had 2 Bergaras… I ended up putting a brux barrel on one and sold the other . They never just shot truly consistent for me… Now I’m 5 tikkas deep and they have all been flawless.
For what you’re wanting , I’d look at the stainless t3x lite in 6.5prc. Chop and thread it at 20”. I’ve got this exact rifle setup and it shoots pretty much everything in tiny little groups…
If you’re dead set on a 7mag or 300 and don’t like the “pencil” lite barrels , maybe check out a
Roughtech tikka

Tikka T3x RoughTech Superlite 7mm Rem Mag 24" 1:9.5" Bbl Roughtech Coyote Tan 3rd Rifle JRTXRC370 For Sale - EuroOptic

Tikka T3x RoughTech Superlite 7mm Rem Mag 24" 1:9.5" Bbl Roughtech Coyote Tan 3rd Rifle JRTXRC370 For Sale

www.eurooptic.com

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Hi all,

With the very exciting news of new stock orders opening up, my waffling is getting forced to a decision… I’m trying to decide whether to cut down a tikka in 7 mag or 300 win, or get a 22” fluted threaded bergara. I hunt suppressed.

I currently hunt with a 14 lb r700 Sendero in 7 mag (26” plus suppressor) so even a drop down to 10 lbs would be massive.

The pencil barrels on the tikkas just kinda irk me! Am I wrong? The profiles on the bergara wilderness Sierra really seem to be just right. Thicker, fluted, 22”, threaded. It’s about the same price as just chopping and threading a tikka.

Thoughts?

I should add that I’m in northeast Idaho. Steep mountains. I’ve lugged that heavy rifle around and killed many things over probably 7 years with it, but it’s a burden.

I also bought and sold a Seekins Element in 300 win several years back because I couldn’t spot my hits due to muzzle flip. I’m hoping the Rokstock will fix that. I also shot a Christensen Mesa in 300 win that I slapped in a Magpul Hunter, but although it shot well I didn’t like the hotdog in a hallway look so I shipped it and went back to Old Faithful, which has been good to me.

Limited funds so I must be smart here.

Signed,

Light-Rifle-Curious

Yeah those "pencil barrels" shouldn't irk you in the slightest.

This was 50 shots (entire box of ammo) shot back to back with a new scope, rings, and stock that were previously sighted in with 73 ELDMs. Switched to factory 77 TMKs.

2 sight in shots on the right and then a 48 shot group on the left. No barrel cool down.

 

[TaperPin]

Hi all,

With the very exciting news of new stock orders opening up, my waffling is getting forced to a decision… I’m trying to decide whether to cut down a tikka in 7 mag or 300 win, or get a 22” fluted threaded bergara. I hunt suppressed.

I currently hunt with a 14 lb r700 Sendero in 7 mag (26” plus suppressor) so even a drop down to 10 lbs would be massive.

The pencil barrels on the tikkas just kinda irk me! Am I wrong? The profiles on the bergara wilderness Sierra really seem to be just right. Thicker, fluted, 22”, threaded. It’s about the same price as just chopping and threading a tikka.

Thoughts?

I should add that I’m in northeast Idaho. Steep mountains. I’ve lugged that heavy rifle around and killed many things over probably 7 years with it, but it’s a burden.

I also bought and sold a Seekins Element in 300 win several years back because I couldn’t spot my hits due to muzzle flip. I’m hoping the Rokstock will fix that. I also shot a Christensen Mesa in 300 win that I slapped in a Magpul Hunter, but although it shot well I didn’t like the hotdog in a hallway look so I shipped it and went back to Old Faithful, which has been good to me.

Limited funds so I must be smart here.

Signed,

Light-Rifle-Curious

If a good shooting rifle is important to you I’d recommend getting the receiver you like and having a custom barrel installed at what ever profile, length or whatever else you’d like. It avoids a lot of messing around with mediocre barrels and passing rifles around.

You’ve gravitate to a list of American design rifles, and it’s by far the most popular choice the world has seen. Guys belly ache like they are horrible and never work right, but that design has remained essentially unchanged with only minor tweaks since the 721 came out in the 1950s. A super accurate custom barrel off a new custom action can be screwed into my 65 year old Remington, Christensen, or modified to work with a Bergara and shoot just as accurately. Despite the poo pooing from the Tikka fans and biased opinions repeating old wives tails, these gun shoot well and there are piles of aftermarket parts. Tikkas can also shoot well with a good barrel.

I pick up a Tikka from time to time at the gun store, but looking at it you have to enjoy the European look to get excited about it. It seems weird to me - the plastic parts, horrible stock, scope mount system machined in and ignored, a mention in the owners manual to not dry fire it, stories of guys disassembling the bolt and bending the mechanism, a trigger held on with a single bolt that will cause slam fires if that bolt loosens up, a lack of aftermarket stocks, and the quirky little recoil lug that guys have to share notes on to get the rifle assembled correctly, and don’t crank on those receiver screws too much or they will pull through the plastic bottom “metal”. They may be slightly more accurate on average than many factory guns, but slightly better than mediocre is a low bar and the number of guys replacing factory barrels with aftermarket ones are good examples of that. If someone isn’t bothered by any of that there’s nothing wrong with them, the popularity isn’t an accident and the design will most likely be around for a long time.

As I write this, yet another Tikka problem popped up that I’ve never heard of with a Remington.

 

[Harvey_NW]

the plastic parts

That never break and aren't thermal conductors?

horrible stock

Very similar ergonomics to many aftermarket with a $25 vertical grip replacement. 100% functional.

scope mount system machined in and ignored

Like custom actions have for a more secure mount? UM if you're Gucci and want bomb proof, Sportsmatch if you're on a budget or shooting for UL.

a mention in the owners manual to not dry fire it

In every firearm owners manual, just like cleaning and maintenance that isn't usually necessary either.

stories of guys disassembling the bolt and bending the mechanism

User error.

a trigger held on with a single bolt that will cause slam fires if that bolt loosens up

Also user error, won't loosen up if you degrease it and torque properly with thread locker. Safer and will function more reliably in harsh elements.

a lack of aftermarket stocks

Literally almost as many options as the Rem 700 platform now..

and the quirky little recoil lug that guys have to share notes on to get the rifle assembled correctly

Non issue, make sure it's seated correctly and torque the action screws. The Rem 700 guys are always fiddling with bedding recoil lugs. Moot point.

and don’t crank on those receiver screws too much or they will pull through the plastic bottom “metal”.

60in/lb doesn't pull them through, and that's plenty sufficient for action screws.

They may be slightly more accurate on average than many factory guns, but slightly better than mediocre is a low bar

So you pick one up from time to time, but do you actually own one or are you just giving a biased opinion because you don't get excited about them? Every factory Tikka I've had shot the first combination of hand loaded components completely acceptable, my only experience with a Bergara took 4-5 different combos to get it to shoot under 2 MOA. I don't care if you don't like them, but to say they might be "slightly better than mediocre" is just silly.

 

[Jellymon1]

That never break and aren't thermal conductors?


Very similar ergonomics to many aftermarket with a $25 vertical grip replacement. 100% functional.


Like custom actions have for a more secure mount? UM if you're Gucci and want bomb proof, Sportsmatch if you're on a budget or shooting for UL.


In every firearm owners manual, just like cleaning and maintenance that isn't usually necessary either.


User error.


Also user error, won't loosen up if you degrease it and torque properly with thread locker. Safer and will function more reliably in harsh elements.


Literally almost as many options as the Rem 700 platform now..


Non issue, make sure it's seated correctly and torque the action screws. The Rem 700 guys are always fiddling with bedding recoil lugs. Moot point.


60in/lb doesn't pull them through, and that's plenty sufficient for action screws.


So you pick one up from time to time, but do you actually own one or are you just giving a biased opinion because you don't get excited about them? Every factory Tikka I've had shot the first combination of hand loaded components completely acceptable, my only experience with a Bergara took 4-5 different combos to get it to shoot under 2 MOA. I don't care if you don't like them, but to say they might be "slightly better than mediocre" is just silly.

I love my Tikka, but 60 in lb on the plastic bottom metal could definitely sink the bolt in and bend the metal part. I have one of the early T3x’s and my manual said 60 in lb for the receiver screws. I did that with an accurate in lb wrench and it sunk the screw enough that it bent the bottom metal and pressed the screw into the bolt, binding it so I couldn’t open the action. Tikka has since updated their manual to say 44 in lb for plastic bottom metals.

 

[ElPollo]

I love my Tikka, but 60 in lb on the plastic bottom metal could definitely sink the bolt in and bend the metal part. I have one of the early T3x’s and my manual said 60 in lb for the receiver screws. I did that with an accurate in lb wrench and it sunk the screw enough that it bent the bottom metal and pressed the screw into the bolt, binding it so I couldn’t open the action. Tikka has since updated their manual to say 44 in lb for plastic bottom metals.

Mine are all at 65”# for both factory and aftermarket stocks. All factory floorplates. No deformation, no pulling through.

 

[Matt5266]

Mine are all at 65”# for both factory and aftermarket stocks. All factory floorplates. No deformation, no pulling through.

Same

 

[Jellymon1]

Mine are all at 65”# for both factory and aftermarket stocks. All factory floorplates. No deformation, no pulling through.

Which models? Maybe the newer models it was fixed. But mine is definitely thin with a void between the bottom metal and the stock. The point is, there are some models/years that cant take the 60 in lb. Tikka updated the torque specs in the manual for a reason.

T3x Plastic bottom metal spec is 44 in lb.
All other t3x bottom metals spec is 60 in lb.

 

[ElPollo]

Which models? Maybe the newer models it was fixed. But mine is definitely thin with a void between the bottom metal and the stock. The point is, there are some models/years that cant take the 60 in lb. Tikka updated the torque specs in the manual for a reason.

All of mine are T3x lites. One is in a Stocky’s VG Hunter and the rest are factory stocks. Had one that was a T3 but sold it. That one was 65”# as well.

 

[TaperPin]

That never break and aren't thermal conductors?


Very similar ergonomics to many aftermarket with a $25 vertical grip replacement. 100% functional.


Like custom actions have for a more secure mount? UM if you're Gucci and want bomb proof, Sportsmatch if you're on a budget or shooting for UL.


In every firearm owners manual, just like cleaning and maintenance that isn't usually necessary either.


User error.


Also user error, won't loosen up if you degrease it and torque properly with thread locker. Safer and will function more reliably in harsh elements.


Literally almost as many options as the Rem 700 platform now..


Non issue, make sure it's seated correctly and torque the action screws. The Rem 700 guys are always fiddling with bedding recoil lugs. Moot point.


60in/lb doesn't pull them through, and that's plenty sufficient for action screws.


So you pick one up from time to time, but do you actually own one or are you just giving a biased opinion because you don't get excited about them? Every factory Tikka I've had shot the first combination of hand loaded components completely acceptable, my only experience with a Bergara took 4-5 different combos to get it to shoot under 2 MOA. I don't care if you don't like them, but to say they might be "slightly better than mediocre" is just silly.

Those are the quirks that I see, and don’t see anything you said changing my mind about any of it. As was said earlier, my advice is someone should buy the receiver that gives them warm mushy feelings and put a good barrel on it. That doesn’t sound like I have a grudge against Tikka.