Beginner in Reloading - What to purchase?

What you need....

A press

A priming tool of some kind ( on press, off press, something)

A die set (full length resize and bullet seating)

Some kind of scale to weigh powder charge ( I like beam, but beam, digital, whatever)

Some kind of way to dispense the powder (Powder drop like a RCBS uniflow, Lee dipper set, electronic powder dispenser/scale combo....something)

Calipers

Case Tray

Funnel

Case sizing lube of some kind

Probably a bullet puller of some kind as mistakes are going to be made.


I may be a bit against the grain on this. But I think a starter kit of some kind is fine. Sure, alot of people upgrade stuff. But that's a want, not a need.
 
What you need....

A press

A priming tool of some kind ( on press, off press, something)

A die set (full length resize and bullet seating)

Some kind of scale to weigh powder charge ( I like beam, but beam, digital, whatever)

Some kind of way to dispense the powder (Powder drop like a RCBS uniflow, Lee dipper set, electronic powder dispenser/scale combo....something)

Calipers

Case Tray

Funnel

Case sizing lube of some kind

Probably a bullet puller of some kind as mistakes are going to be made.


I may be a bit against the grain on this. But I think a starter kit of some kind is fine. Sure, alot of people upgrade stuff. But that's a want, not a need.
I like this, the only thing I would change is instead of a powder measure the Lee dippers are nice for getting powder onto the scale. For trimming cases I used the Lee caliber specific trimmers but went to a Redding trimmer. If I had to do it again the Little Crow WTF trimmers are excellent.
 
Really? All I use is a beam scale and a tumbler for brass cleaning, both post range and for lube cleanup. Imho the cheap electronic scales I have used are junk. Yes good electronic ones work well, but they are not cheap. A good beam never needs batteries and if kept clean, nothing to break or go out of adjustment.
I got tried of the inconsistency and the WAY too slowness of the beam scale to ever be able to recommend them to anybody. Good electronic scales aren’t expensive at all. I would quit reloading if I could only use a beam scale. Tumbling was a colossal waste of time for me, so I stopped that pretty early on.
 
I got tried of the inconsistency and the WAY too slowness of the beam scale to ever be able to recommend them to anybody. Good electronic scales aren’t expensive at all. I would quit reloading if I could only use a beam scale. Tumbling was a colossal waste of time for me, so I stopped that pretty early on.
Different strokes for different folks...

I'm the opposite. I find my Redding Beam Scale to be much more accurate then digital scales(until you get way up there in price, although i'm not too sure bout it mattering enough).

It may be a bit slower. But I also don't waste my time weighing every load either....I would quit if I had to (outside of pressure ladders).

A handful of weights on the beam per loading session doesn't take very long.

But either way works.
 
Get a Redding turret press, bushing dies, and a charge master up front if you are able. These tools are game changers for speed. If on a low budget you can get by with very little and still make great ammo. Also recommend the Sinclair vld chamfer tool to use before each seating session. It's the jam.
 
I'm starting out too and bought the Lyman Ultimate Kit. It literally has everything you need to get started. In my opinion it's the most comprehensive kit available. I feel I will use every component included at some time. Not sure why people are against kits - I'm guessing some kits may not be as complete as the Lyman. My $0.02

Have fun. It is addicting
 
1st- What’s your budget? Are you trying to get into reloading on the cheap and upgrade as time allows? Or can you buy once cry once? Gavin over at Ultimate Reloader has a ton of good reviews on a lot of equipment. If your trying to go cheap, before buying new search all theses different sites classifieds. You can find good deals. I agree on the “kits” that’s what I did and now all that stuffs in storage and I’ve upgraded everything.
2nd- Find someone you can learn from and stick to their process until you get experienced and then test other processes. There’s 1000 ways to reload. I’d recommend Erik Cortina YouTube or website.
3rd- BE SAFE. Work loads up slow, understand pressure. Don’t drink and reload. Take clear notes and label everything. (You’ll start brass prep or reload different tests and walkway for 1-2 months and pick it back up and wonder what the hell is what) Understand what’s dangerous, ie: Over charge/undercharge. Hot loads, jammed bullets, etc. Ask questions. There’s a lot of experienced guys on forums (some A-holes too) most are decent to help. Join other forums, read lots
Have fun.
 
Buy the book top grade ammo by Glenn Zediker trust me. It will answer all of your questions and walk you through the process step by step but there’s also a chapter on choosing reloading gear. It’s what you need. Best
 
Buy the book top grade ammo by Glenn Zediker trust me. It will answer all of your questions and walk you through the process step by step but there’s also a chapter on choosing reloading gear. It’s what you need. Best
$289 on Amazon. Can that be right?

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I've read glens book and tried his techniques. Just got done selling off all the stuff he recommended, he may have written a book but he doesn't know what he's talking about.
 
You can make reloading extremely complicated or it can be pretty simple. I go for the latter more these days. When you use quality brass, bullets known for accuracy and powders that are known to give good accuracy in a particular cartridge it's generally pretty easy to find good loads. Especially with modern rifles these days.
 
I've read glens book and tried his techniques. Just got done selling off all the stuff he recommended, he may have written a book but he doesn't know what he's talking about.
That’s a bit harsh, he was a winning competition shooter. You don’t have to buy the exact model of everything he recommended but it will tell you the reloading process step by step in baby steps with a lot of detail and also the tools that you need some form of to reload and what are gimmicks and can be skipped.

Everyone’s different but his book helped me learn how to set up all of my dies and why I was doing what I was doing.
 
He recommends among many other things -Forster full length dies, Forster seating dies, co-ax press, Harrell’s powder throwers, starrett and mitituyo calipers, Dillon vibratory tumblers, not exactly junk
 
I will go against the consensus here. Do not get into reloading. Pick a caliber with cheap, widely available factory ammo, spend all your time and money actually shooting.

Reloading is not cheaper, it is a huge time suck, and it does not make you a better shooter.

With the money it costs to really get into it properly, you can buy a week at any long range shooting school in the country.

I've been reloading 30 years, my dad reloaded, I have enough expensive reloading gear to fill a garage (which it does) and if I could get back what I paid for it, I could buy a new truck.

But if you insist on doing this, there is stuff that is a huge time suck that will get in the way of other things.
Weighing charges on beam scales and adjusting powder throwers...fine for high volume pistol rounds...sucks for working up rifle loads.

So buy an RCBS charge-master. Preferably 2 or 3, which is what you might end up with anyway. Maybe get a used beam scale on Ebay just to sanity check the charge-master once in a while, because they tend to wander sometimes.

Buy a Forster press. If you're reloading more than one caliber, it's by far the fastest press to use--dies slide in and out-- and it also allows cases and dies to float just enough to help reduce runout and other problems.

Otherwise most inexpensive presses will work just fine and basically all work the same...they are just slow to change dies out on.

Buy a bullet puller setup (you will be pulling lots of bullets) and a Lee collet die and several mandrels to resize the case necks after you pull bullets.

(You will probably end up with a cheap press setup just to pull bullets).

The choice of sizing dies doesn't matter all that much. I have Lee sizing dies that give .0005 runout and I have Whidden dies that give .0005 runout. You're less likely to get a lemon if you buy Forster (my first stop...plus Forster will open the neck on any of their dies so you don't have to run an expander) or Redding (distant second to me but generally great). But again most sizing dies work well.

Lots of folks end up using mandrels because they are a very useful tool to set neck tension.

Lee Collet dies are a no-brainer. Also 2-3 extra mandrels to adjust the neck tension, and mandrels that you cut the decapping stem off so you can resize the necks on primed cases.

For seating dies, the best seater is the Hornady New Dimensions die with the sliding sleeve. They are the cheapest... $35. BTW I have tons of Forster micrometer seaters and Redding micrometer seaters and the Hornady with the sleeve does the exact same thing.

For case lube, get a tin of imperial sizing wax, it will last a decade, and it works perfectly for times when you need to move a lot of brass.

Otherwise the Hornady one-shot case lube is by far the easiest to use, but there is a time window on it. You can't use it within a minute of spraying it, and after 10-20 minutes it seems to lose half its lubricity. (I spray the cases in a ziplock bag).

Any cheap universal decapping die will work fine.

Some hand-priming system. I use RCBS because it's what I've always used.

Oops...calipers. Unfortunately at one point in my life I worked some in a machine shop so I can't use crap calipers. For calipers I would buy a used Brown and Sharpe off Ebay.

For measuring case length to start, you can use a fired 40 S&W case and a caliper with a lot of rifle calibers. But you'll end up with some OAL gauges eventually. Whidden are the easiest, for my money.

Now add a ton of expensive powders that now cost $60 per pound and you pay $50 shipping on (hazmat plus normal shipping). Same with primers.

Bullets--especially the ELDM/TMKs favored here--are nice and cheap and don't require hazmat shipping.

I'm probably forgetting something. Chamfer tools (I use a machine now)...it's a long damn list. Problems come up, you buy tools to fix them...

Meanwhile that $25 box of factory match ammo is staring right at you.

Oh yeah you might eventually want something to trim the cases. Depends on how much spare time you have. I gave up and finally bought a Giraud trimmer.

Seriously price this all out and then price a shooting school.

End of rant. Reloading can be enjoyable but...
 
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