Bedding Advice

[beerbucksducks]

I have it pretty well floated and everything prepped. I’ve learned that my Dremel skills leave a lot to be desired, but the surface is definitely “roughed up” haha. Last question before I mix up the jb. Do you let it cure the full 24 hours before trying to separate or do you do it earlier to do some “clean up” before the epoxy is fully hardened? Thanks again, for the pointers, I appreciate it!


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[Mag_7s]

I am constantly cleaning up the sqeezed material as it gets pushed out, for me it takes some time. Then, when material has stopped moving I'll remove my masking tape, and do a final cleaning with shaped wooden tongue depressors for clean outside lines. Right or wrong, it's just my process.

 

[beerbucksducks]

Thanks for the pics. My 8 month old didn’t sleep long enough for me to finish the job today haha. Hopefully tomorrow I can give it a go!


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[Mag_7s]

Thanks for the pics. My 8 month old didn’t sleep long enough for me to finish the job today haha. Hopefully tomorrow I can give it a go!


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I know all too well what that's like. I have a 4, and 1.5 year old. I have to plan everything in small stages.

 

[Wrench]

Don't pull it early. Keep a pile of q tips and wd40 or diesel handy to wet the q tips for clean up....do it wet. I don't hardly use masking tape because clean up is so easy this way.

 

[beerbucksducks]

I didn’t glue my action in to the stock, so that’s a plus! Behind the lug, the flat of the action and the tang around the rear screw looks good. In front of the lug, due to the “step” in the stock and the action being flat the compound didn’t make contact. Do I mix up more and build it up to the same level? Seems like a lot of epoxy to build up. Or leave it be? The previous movement has been basically eliminated with the current bed.

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[Antares]

Don't pull it early. Keep a pile of q tips and wd40 or diesel handy to wet the q tips for clean up....do it wet. I don't hardly use masking tape because clean up is so easy this way.

Acetone works great for cleanup too.

 

[Kimmo H]

I didn’t glue my action in to the stock, so that’s a plus! Behind the lug, the flat of the action and the tang around the rear screw looks good. In front of the lug, due to the “step” in the stock and the action being flat the compound didn’t make contact. Do I mix up more and build it up to the same level? Seems like a lot of epoxy to build up. Or leave it be? The previous movement has been basically eliminated with the current bed.




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I wouldn't touch the are in front of the lug after you've already bedded it. There is a risk that some bedding material seeps between your existing bedding and the receiver, essentially ruining the fit. You got the part that really matters, wich is from behind the lug, so atleast try it before trying to touch it up or redoing it.

That bed may not be the prettiest one ever made but it should work better than no bedding at all imo. Nice work for a first.


From what I've learnt doing bedding jobs at work it is not worth to cheap out on the amount of bedding compound. Using plenty of it the extra will squeeze out and the bed will look cleaner and make contact everywhere. Devcon handles the bigger fills without any issues from what I've seen.

Protect the stock and voids on the action carefully, inlet generously to give enough thickness for your compound and use a lot of it when you go at it next time Wax based release agents seem to be the most reliable. I like the kiwi shoe polish, as does many other smiths aswell.

 

[beerbucksducks]

I wouldn't touch the are in front of the lug after you've already bedded it. There is a risk that some bedding material seeps between your existing bedding and the receiver, essentially ruining the fit. You got the part that really matters, wich is from behind the lug, so atleast try it before trying to touch it up or redoing it.

That bed may not be the prettiest one ever made but it should work better than no bedding at all imo. Nice work for a first.


From what I've learnt doing bedding jobs at work it is not worth to cheap out on the amount of bedding compound. Using plenty of it the extra will squeeze out and the bed will look cleaner and make contact everywhere. Devcon handles the bigger fills without any issues from what I've seen.

Protect the stock and voids on the action carefully, inlet generously to give enough thickness for your compound and use a lot of it when you go at it next time Wax based release agents seem to be the most reliable. I like the kiwi shoe polish, as does many other smiths aswell.

Thanks! I agree, I think I got the important areas fairly well. I’ll clean up the ugly spots a bit today and bolt it back together.

As a side note, i couldn’t find kiwi neutral shoe polish locally. I found Griffin Shoe polish instead and it worked great. Just another option if people can’t find the kiwi.

Paste Wax 1.125 Neutral

www.griffinshoecare.com

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[Wrench]

If you do decide to build it up, use studs to pull it down tight to the initial bedding or you'll raise the waterline which can affect feeding and screw purchase.

As mentioned above, use plenty of mud and wipe off the excess.

 

[Mag_7s]

If you do decide to build it up, use studs to pull it down tight to the initial bedding or you'll raise the waterline which can affect feeding and screw purchase.

BOLT ACTION RIFLE BEDDING STUDS

BOLT ACTION RIFLE BEDDING STUDS https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-bedding/bolt-action-rifle-bedding-studs/

www.brownells.com

These bedding studs have worked well for me.

 

[beerbucksducks]

Update:
Looks like some slight improvement after the free float and bedding job. To early to say for sure, but 10 shot group went from 2.23” to 1.86”. Nothing amazing but not bad for a $250 rifle in a flimsy stock and a random load of h414/117 btsp. Thanks again for the input, I appreciate it.

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