Barrel Vice Recommendations

[CMcCormick1805]

I’m looking for recommendations on barrel vices and any general tips associated with them as I want to get one in the near future.

What should l look for and what should I stay away from when it comes to purchasing a vice?

My primary use will be installing barrels.

 

[CTXhunter]

I just bought the SAC bravo vise and have really enjoyed it. I read around on here and seems like people beat their heads against the wall with cheap vices that don’t grip well enough for tight barrels. I’ve only changed a handful of rem 700 pattern barrels but it hasn’t slipped or moved a single time when tightening or loosening. It’s fairly affordable and super simple.

 

[hereinaz]

Viper vice works if you have already broken the factory barrel off. I had to use two viper vices to hold factory barrels to break them off. One standard and one sporter.

SAC or the Buffalo Creek are my choices for factory and everything else.

I have broken off dozens of factory Tikka with those two. It’s nothing if you mount the vice on something VERY solid and crank it down absurdly tight on the barrel.

The Brownell’s outside action vice tightened just behind the front action screw nub works great. If you tighten it on over the tenon, you only make it harder.

Soak factory barrels inside the action in Kroil can help along with heat.

 

[sierracharlie338]

The viper is a cost effective option but I wouldn’t buy another. There are better options for a little bit more money.

The mecforce gets decent reviews. SAC is top tier. Even some decent options on Amazon.

I wouldn’t buy another suggest one with collets for a more accuracy grip on the barrel.

 

[Half Nocked]

I bought this one from mechforce. https://mechforce.com/mechforce-barrel-vise-for-hunting-gun-rifle-gunsmithing-benchrest-clamp/

I’ve used it to swap out 4-5 barrels all on tikka prefit barrels. My recommendation would be to definitely use the leather pads it comes with. When you use the vise insert the barrel until the action almost touches the vise and tighten everything down as much as you can and then tighten it some more. Use a cheater bar.

I used this barrel wrench, and it worked well. Plus a 1-1/2 steel pipe fits over the handle.

Mauser Action Barrel Wrench | Flat Bottomed Receiver | Wheeler

Action Wrench #1 - Mauser / Flat Bottomed Receiver

www.wheelertools.com

 

[flyfisher117]

I have been happy with my Python barrel vise. It’s handled everything I’ve throw at it.
Though I will say I haven’t tried using it to crack loose a factory Tikka barrel.
https://www.viperbenchrest.com/shop/p/python-barrel-vise-1

 

[hereinaz]

I have been happy with my Python barrel vise. It’s handled everything I’ve throw at it.
Though I will say I haven’t tried using it to crack loose a factory Tikka barrel.
https://www.viperbenchrest.com/shop/p/python-barrel-vise-1

Problem with the Python and some others on Tikka is that it can’t grab the barrel, because of the aggressive profile there is no flat.

 

[waspocrew]

SAC Bravo for me. The collets are great, especially for Tikka barrels.

 

[HuntHarder]

Viper works just fine for my use. Surely there are better ones but the Viper does just fine and is alot cheaper than the higher end ones. T3x's are nothing compared to T3 barrels. Soak your barrel in penetraiting oil for a day or 2 and it's easy work.

 

[hereinaz]

Viper works just fine for my use. Surely there are better ones but the Viper does just fine and is alot cheaper than the higher end ones. T3x's are nothing compared to T3 barrels. Soak your barrel in penetraiting oil for a day or 2 and it's easy work.

Yes, T3 are crazy hard. I have two that were imported pre Beretta. For stuck barrels I don’t have time to soak, I use my SAC and then put on both of my viper vices, LOL.

Breaking free a factory Tikka requires more than the Viper is intended to and every one I have personally seen is bent and eventually the bolts can get stuck. I think you have to bolt it so tight that the top plate visually bends.

100 inch pounds is easy with the Viper.

If I get a new Viper, I will put antiseize on the bolts, bolt the bottom to a steel plate, and cut the top in half so it can better grip curves of the profile.

 

[HuntHarder]

Yeah, I crank the living piss out of mine. I keep waiting for it to break, but it keeps keeping on. I probably just jinxed myself. When it 's the bed, I will likely upgrade to a better Vice. I do more barrel swaps than the average guy tho. If I was only going to do a swap here and there, its hard to justify the SAC price.

The last 2 T3x's I did, I don't think I used more than 1 whack each with the dead blow. Spun right off.

 

[waspocrew]

Yeah, I crank the living piss out of mine. I keep waiting for it to break, but it keeps keeping on. I probably just jinxed myself. When it 's the bed, I will likely upgrade to a better Vice. I do more barrel swaps than the average guy tho. If I was only going to do a swap here and there, its hard to justify the SAC price.

The last 2 T3x's I did, I don't think I used more than 1 whack each with the dead blow. Spun right off.

I have an old Wheeler vise with the wood blocks. I was cranking it down so much the blocks were starting to crack/split - even then, I couldn’t get my Tikka barrel to break loose.

Went to the SAC Bravo with the correct bushing and the barrel was off with two hits of the dead blow hammer. I’ve since done two others and the same result.

For any vise, gotta get it cranked down crazy tight haha

 

[hereinaz]

Upgrade to a 12 pound sledge with the handle cut down, then one blow does the magic!

If you get the viper, cut the top and tighten it till you think it should hold. Then tighten it more. Then a little more. Then get a bigger bar to tighten it more.

My method has been to use my Ryobi cordless impact wrench until it can’t go more…