Barrel Length Choice Verification

[RockAndSage]

I guess my question is why? By the time I’ve bought a few of those I’ve probably spent about as much as the shipping to get the thread pitch needed for the suppressor out of its box.

IIRC, the way Paul explained it to me, is that the diameter of the barrel (thin sporter) at the place I wanted it cut, just wouldn't allow for both a proper shoulder and the 5/8 threads, and that the solution was to do the 1/2 threads, and permanently mount the adapter/shoulder on top of that. The job he did for me turned out exquisite - beautiful, smooth, very competently done.

 

[RockAndSage]

IIRC, the way Paul explained it to me, is that the diameter of the barrel (thin sporter) at the place I wanted it cut, just wouldn't allow for both a proper shoulder and the 5/8 threads, and that the solution was to do the 1/2 threads, and permanently mount the adapter/shoulder on top of that. The job he did for me turned out exquisite - beautiful, smooth, very competently done.

Here's a photo of the adapter/shoulder, and the thread protector he also fabricated for it, from scratch. Barrel and protector are also coated with KG Gun Kote, which is quite a bit better for durability/scratch resistance than cerakote:

 

[TX_Mike D.]

IIRC, the way Paul explained it to me, is that the diameter of the barrel (thin sporter) at the place I wanted it cut, just wouldn't allow for both a proper shoulder and the 5/8 threads, and that the solution was to do the 1/2 threads, and permanently mount the adapter/shoulder on top of that. The job he did for me turned out exquisite - beautiful, smooth, very competently done.

This was my understanding from the little bit of research on it. Basically permanently attaching the adapter and machining it to match the barrel. There are some pretty slick videos of it being done.

 

[Oldffemt]

No experience with the smith you’re using but I’ve had a few barrels cut and threaded. All your tikkas should be able to be threaded 5/8x24. Pic is of a 6.5cm t3x lite I had cut at 18” and threaded by Kampfeld. Expecting to get my 18” 308 barrel back from him any day. The Kimber barrels are pretty thin, you might have to go 1/2x28 on that. I hunted with a 300wsm barrel threaded at 1/2x28 for a few years, no issues, I still have it in case I go somewhere with a 30 cal minimum.

 

[RockAndSage]

Pic is of a 6.5cm t3x lite I had cut at 18” and threaded by Kampfeld.

This looks a lot like my photo above, with a shoulder that was added - you sure they didn't do something similar to what I shared?

 

[WeiserBucks]

This looks a lot like my photo above, with a shoulder that was added - you sure they didn't do something similar to what I shared?

I think Karls process is pretty much identical to what you described earlier.

 

[Oldffemt]

This looks a lot like my photo above, with a shoulder that was added - you sure they didn't do something similar to what I shared?

I’d guess it’s done very similar. He threaded the barrel 5/8x24, extra deep and the shoulder is threaded on, is my understanding. He does a really clean job at a reasonable price ($165 including shipping) and meets his time estimates. That’s a pretty rare trifecta for a gunsmith!

 

[TX_Mike D.]

No experience with the smith you’re using but I’ve had a few barrels cut and threaded. All your tikkas should be able to be threaded 5/8x24. Pic is of a 6.5cm t3x lite I had cut at 18” and threaded by Kampfeld. Expecting to get my 18” 308 barrel back from him any day. The Kimber barrels are pretty thin, you might have to go 1/2x28 on that. I hunted with a 300wsm barrel threaded at 1/2x28 for a few years, no issues, I still have it in case I go somewhere with a 30 cal minimum.

This machining lines look fantastic too. I believe I saw Kampfeld recommended on this site as well in a thread, but I like how Paul ties the in the barrel fluting saw in the pictures. And he responded to my questions quickly. That goes a long way with me.

I’m in a similar situation with my 300 wsm. Mainly keeping it for where a guide/land owner requires its diameter. While in my history being a smaller stature guy that can/could “take a hit” was something I was always proud of, I don’t go looking for it these days. Im not sure if I’m becoming a wuss, or just smarter. I’m leaning towards the latter.

 

[Dean McCollom]

No experience with the smith you’re using but I’ve had a few barrels cut and threaded. All your tikkas should be able to be threaded 5/8x24. Pic is of a 6.5cm t3x lite I had cut at 18” and threaded by Kampfeld. Expecting to get my 18” 308 barrel back from him any day. The Kimber barrels are pretty thin, you might have to go 1/2x28 on that. I hunted with a 300wsm barrel threaded at 1/2x28 for a few years, no issues, I still have it in case I go somewhere with a 30 cal minimum.

Karl did that with a rifle of mine as well. He does good work.

 

[X0311]

All good choices except the .223. I wouldn't bother to cut the .223 down from 20 inches unless the suppressor to be used on it is 7 inches or more. All my suppressed rifles are cut to 18-20 inches and I like to keep OAL to 26 inches or less.

 

[TX_Mike D.]

Well, ended up taking @bpitcher advice and used Pete for three of the four rifles. It’s not exactly the aesthetics I was looking for, but if it works I really don’t care that much.

Pete was a nice guy and to say he can turn something around quickly is an understatement. He had everything done the day after I dropped them off!

Added edit: I didn’t end up chopping the .308. It’s heavy enough it’s just going to be a range toy. He did thread it for me though.