Barrel Chop Screwed Up Accuracy

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Do it. I have had 4 Tikka barrels done now. All of them shoot just as good, or better, than they did before they were chopped.
I think to get it threaded to 5/8-24 I would have to cut it to about 16 or 17”. I would think that would stiffen the barrel up quite a bit. Would there be any issues running a suppressor on that?
 
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I think to get it threaded to 5/8-24 I would have to cut it to about 16 or 17”. I would think that would stiffen the barrel up quite a bit. Would there be any issues running a suppressor on that?

You won’t have the recommended shoulder diameter for 5/8” threads even cutting it that short. Good news is there are options to add a shoulder to have more surface for a can to shoulder against and still use 5/8” threads and you could do that without having to cut that short if you don’t want to.
 

5811

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Are there a lot of suppressors that don't use a standard hub mount(1 3/8-24)? Banish 30?

I think a ti hub for 1/2" is only 50 ish bucks, and a lot of cans are available with 5/8 or 1/2. I'm always curious why people get hung up on 5/8 and thread adapters when the can is so easy and cheap to change. That's what I've done on my sporter barrels, no issues.
 
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Ok. Thank you for the information. I think I would be ok with an 18” barrel, but if I don’t have to go shorter than that I won’t. I’m sure the smith would know about adding a shoulder. I will just see what he says.
 

Grundy53

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Are there a lot of suppressors that don't use a standard hub mount(1 3/8-24)? Banish 30?

I think a ti hub for 1/2" is only 50 ish bucks, and a lot of cans are available with 5/8 or 1/2. I'm always curious why people get hung up on 5/8 and thread adapters when the can is so easy and cheap to change. That's what I've done on my sporter barrels, no issues.
Same

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
 
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Are there a lot of suppressors that don't use a standard hub mount(1 3/8-24)? Banish 30?

I think a ti hub for 1/2" is only 50 ish bucks, and a lot of cans are available with 5/8 or 1/2. I'm always curious why people get hung up on 5/8 and thread adapters when the can is so easy and cheap to change. That's what I've done on my sporter barrels, no issues.
I have a dilligent defence Lti, and if I can just use an adapter from 1/2 to 5/8 and keep the barrel a tad longer I would do that.
 

5811

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I have a dilligent defence Lti, and if I can just use an adapter from 1/2 to 5/8 and keep the barrel a tad longer I would do that.
I understand. My intention was to point out that you can swap out the direct thread hub mount on the back of the can and skip the adapter.
 
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Ok. Thank you for the information. I think I would be ok with an 18” barrel, but if I don’t have to go shorter than that I won’t. I’m sure the smith would know about adding a shoulder. I will just see what he says.
I have a 270 Win Tikka barrel that’s threaded 9/16 at 22”. There’s an adapter up to 5/8” that’s been thread locked on. I can’t tell you anything about shoulder size but I can tell you the barrel now has over 950 rounds on it suppressed without issue.
 

kevlar88

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@longrange13, I’ve chopped a handful of barrels using just a hacksaw and a facing/crowning tool to square up the muzzle. All remained very consistent in accuracy except one.
The ‘one’ is a factory cz 527 varmint chambered in 223. Started out at 24” shooting a ragged hole at 100 yards off bench and bags. Shortened it up to 20” and opened up to 3” groups, shortened to 19.5” and shot 2”. At 19” it went back to 3”. At 18” I’m back to 2”. Barrel is now sits at 17.5” and I’ll give you an update as soon as I have one.
My best guess is the barrel some way, some how, has a loose spot in the bore that I’ll hopefully be able to cut out before getting to 16”.
 

yfarm

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Anyone have much experience with an 18" 308 unsuppressed? Materially more unpleasant to shoot than 20-22"?
Have a RA compact in 308 with an 18” barrel, don’t notice the blast any worse than 280ai with a 24” with a brake. Is noticeably louder than a 308 26” Encore which is getting cut and threaded at 20”
 

kevlar88

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@longrange13, I’ve chopped a handful of barrels using just a hacksaw and a facing/crowning tool to square up the muzzle. All remained very consistent in accuracy except one.
The ‘one’ is a factory cz 527 varmint chambered in 223. Started out at 24” shooting a ragged hole at 100 yards off bench and bags. Shortened it up to 20” and opened up to 3” groups, shortened to 19.5” and shot 2”. At 19” it went back to 3”. At 18” I’m back to 2”. Barrel is now sits at 17.5” and I’ll give you an update as soon as I have one.
My best guess is the barrel some way, some how, has a loose spot in the bore that I’ll hopefully be able to cut out before getting to 16”.
Still no good, but this time around there seemed to be an actual central group with some scattered outliers instead being completely random. The way it 'grouped' I'll try a different powder before chopping another inch off.
 
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Any update on your CZ’s accuracy? I’m curious. Years ago, I ordered a .17 Hornet 527 from CZ and asked them to cut and thread the barrel. They could never get it to shoot well after the chop either.
 

The Guide

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Had my tikka 223 cut and threaded by a well known gunsmith. It is has 17” of exposed barrel. It totally screwed up the accuracy. Anyone have this happen? Previously it loved the 77tmk and smk, threw them both in about a 1” 10 shot rapid fire group. Now it groups around 2+ moa and pretty random.
Did you ever get this figured out? We didn't get a conclusion to your post.

Jay
 
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Anyone have much experience with an 18" 308 unsuppressed? Materially more unpleasant to shoot than 20-22"?
Yep carried one for years. Nothing crazy imo especially compared to a 20” of similar weight. Barrel weight comes more into play here in relation to recoil. If you are shooting a factory sporter barrel it will be much more noticeable than heavy barrel but that’s normally the case with any cartridge. I loved my shorty 308 but shooting it suppressed was much more enjoyable.
 
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