Bareshaft

[406unltd]

This covid thing has got me tinkering and doing things I never do, like bareshafting. A few days ago I had my bow at the shop and paper tuned it to the point I had a slight tail right tear. I left it there and the next morning I moved my rest left a tiny bit and shot broadheads 20-90 and had a finger together hand sized group. I was very happy with that and was going to leave it..... Then I felt the need to tinker after spending too long on YouTube.

So I shot some bareshaft this morning that hit tail right and high, and after some manipulation of the rest I got them hitting the same spot and angle into the target as my fletched shaft at 20. I then proceeded to push it further-30,40,50,60. When I had a perfect release and also a flawed release the bareshaft always had the same angle into the target as the fletched arrow. However when the release was less than perfect it wouldn’t group with the fletched shaft. Is this normal? Or have I ****** things up lol?

I will be shooting broadheads tomorrow morning to see what things look like. Ultimately I have my old setting to put things back to the way it was so I’m not worried. With that said it was very interesting to see that bareshaft smash the POA with fletched when I did my part. Any how if anyone has any advise or just wants to talk about the whole bareshaft thing that would be great. It’s been fun to play around with things. Below is my setup. Thanks fellas!

RealmX-performance setting
30.5” draw
.250 spine
70#
Hinge release
29.5” ctc
Valkyrie centerpin system
21g sleeve
210g head
Easton G nock
4 fletch aae max stealth
556-558g total
272-274fps

 

[TrlRunHunter]

I just started tinkering with this myself but haven’t stretched it out yet. I will say it has definitely helped me walk in the broad head vs field point grouping.

I must say... without having the technical chops to confirm... I’d think a flawed release would definitely produce a poor result with a bareshaft at those distances. Every little flaw is amplified. The fact that you are hitting the same point with bare and fletched shafts at 60 yards with a good release is quite the humblebrag. Impressive! At some point I’d expect that to diverge (even with perfect releases) given the lower weight and drag of an unfletched shaft, but perhaps that’s minimized since you are launching 550+ grain missiles with some serious heat.


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[bjfoxhoven]

@406unltd what spine arrow and what poundage? And that Has to blow through about anything lol. Love it.

and if you were hitting broadheads with field points to distance I probably wouldn’t worry too much about it and be okay with that...that is the ultimate goal of tuning anyway.i doubt you are losing much energy with vane correction if you had a band size group at 90. Most broadheads struggle to impact with field points out past 80 due to the extra drag. I love to tinker too though, learned a LOT when I finally stripped some vanes off arrows and bare shaft for the first time.

 

[Ucsdryder]

With bowtechs I believe you put your arrow rest at manufacturer recommended spec and then tune with the yokes. I wouldn’t mess with the rest.

 

[406unltd]

250
70#

@406unltd what spine arrow and what poundage? And that Has to blow through about anything lol. Love it.

and if you were hitting broadheads with field points to distance I probably wouldn’t worry too much about it and be okay with that...that is the ultimate goal of tuning anyway.i doubt you are losing much energy with vane correction if you had a band size group at 90. Most broadheads struggle to impact with field points out past 80 due to the extra drag. I love to tinker too though, learned a LOT when I finally stripped some vanes off arrows and bare shaft for the first time.

 

[fatlander]

With bowtechs I believe you put your arrow rest at manufacturer recommended spec and then tune with the yokes. I wouldn’t mess with the rest.

This.

If you had the broadheads hitting that far you should have let it be. All tuning methods are only a means to an end you already had. Don’t care what bareshafts are doing if the broadheads are doing what they’re supposed to.

With that said, I’ve yet to find a quality broad head that won’t fly if my bow is baresfat tuned to 20+ yards. I bareshafts tune first though, and then shoot broadheads to confirm.

But once I’ve got broadheads flying the way I want I never ever fool with tuning more unless there is an apparent problem. All you do is chase your tail when you have less than perfect form and lose that already awesome tune.

Set the rest to center shot and yoke tune that bad boy back the way you had it before.


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[406unltd]

So my Instagram has a couple pics and video I posted this morning showing the fletched and bareshafting I was doing. If you choose to look at that to give you a better idea of my concerns that’s fine. My biggest concern was my arrows hitting square into the animal and not losing any unnecessary power by hitting crooked. So I though bareshaft would possible get me closer to hitting truer. Yes they shot great out to 90 before but the initial tail right got me trying to make it better. Also the lightweight Broadhead target moves considerably when it gets hit by these arrows so I can’t tel if I was tail right/ left up/ down or whatever. Hope I’m not too confusing lol

I just started tinkering with this myself but haven’t stretched it out yet. I will say it has definitely helped me walk in the broad head vs field point grouping.

I must say... without having the technical chops to confirm... I’d think a flawed release would definitely produce a poor result with a bareshaft at those distances. Every little flaw is amplified. The fact that you are hitting the same point with bare and fletched shafts at 60 yards with a good release is quite the humblebrag. Impressive! At some point I’d expect that to diverge (even with perfect releases) given the lower weight and drag of an unfletched shaft, but perhaps that’s minimized since you are launching 550+ grain missiles with some serious heat.


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[Beendare]

I don't worry so much about tail of bare shaft [unless its really cockeyed] more as to where it impacts. Some targets will tweak the arrow after it impacts.

I think its a worthy exercise....and would be curious to know the difference between you're old adjustment and your new adjustment.

Are we talking 1/32" rest move or more?

Some bows have a tighter sweet spot than others. My old Mathews LX was like that....1/32" out and it still tuned. My Hoyt Spyder- no. 1/32" and you could see the difference in your groups at 60 yds.

_____

 

[406unltd]

I totally understand and I completely agree. I am just trying to see if I can get my arrows to hit truly straight and when those arrows hit that light target it moves it too much to see if it came in straight or not. I’m just paranoid of robbing myself of HP.

This.

If you had the broadheads hitting that far you should have let it be. All tuning methods are only a means to an end you already had. Don’t care what bareshafts are doing if the broadheads are doing what they’re supposed to.

With that said, I’ve yet to find a quality broad head that won’t fly if my bow is baresfat tuned to 20+ yards. I bareshafts tune first though, and then shoot broadheads to confirm.

But once I’ve got broadheads flying the way I want I never ever fool with tuning more unless there is an apparent problem. All you do is chase your tail when you have less than perfect form and lose that already awesome tune.

Set the rest to center shot and yoke tune that bad boy back the way you had it before.


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[bjfoxhoven]

Just the bare shafts were hitting a little canted right? I’m guessing the fletched ones were hitting true if you were grouping at distance. You shouldn’t be losing much energy at all with your setup at impact. Wind may make it hit off a little but there is nothing you can do about that other than beef up your arrow (which you have).

 

[406unltd]

Yes the bareshaft was nock high and right. Fletched was fine. The tail right I saw in paper before all this. My broadheads hit great just a little low. Which I fixed today hopefully. I probably won’t lose a lot of energy but when I saw that bareshaft tail right that bad I couldn’t help but try to straighten it out. I built em to hit hard and don’t want to negate that by hitting sideways. I put up the video of Broadhead hitting at 90 on my Instagram as well as some of the bareshafting I did today if helps see what I’m talking about at all. Tried to post video here and couldn’t I guess.

Just the bare shafts were hitting a little canted right? I’m guessing the fletched ones were hitting true if you were grouping at distance. You shouldn’t be losing much energy at all with your setup at impact. Wind may make it hit off a little but there is nothing you can do about that other than beef up your arrow (which you have).

 

[bjfoxhoven]

@406unltd i strive for bullet hole and perfect flight with bare shafts. If I get that I tend to have great broadhead flight. Sounds like you need to get the yokes turns to your set up though according to other people’s comments. I understand yoke tuning but don’t have that kind of bow so haven’t ever had to. Good luck!

 

[406unltd]

This was the last group bareshaft/fletched group I shot at 60. They were only 2” apart and perfectly parallel

@406unltd i strive for bullet hole and perfect flight with bare shafts. If I get that I tend to have great broadhead flight. Sounds like you need to get the yokes turns to your set up though according to other people’s comments. I understand yoke tuning but don’t have that kind of bow so haven’t ever had to. Good luck!

 

[Beendare]

Thats^ about as good as a guy is going to get for good arrow flight

 

[406unltd]

Any predictions for how my broadheads fly tomorrow?

Thats^ about as good as a guy is going to get for good arrow flight

 

[406unltd]

I moved the rest a total of 1/16 left of where I had it when I shot good group with broadheads. So I believe that put my center shot at 7/8 from the 13/16 I had. Another interesting thing was that my sight tape is way off now since I fixed the bareshaft tail high. To hit at 70 I set my sight to 55.

I don't worry so much about tail of bare shaft [unless its really cockeyed] more as to where it impacts. Some targets will tweak the arrow after it impacts.

I think its a worthy exercise....and would be curious to know the difference between you're old adjustment and your new adjustment.

Are we talking 1/32" rest move or more?

Some bows have a tighter sweet spot than others. My old Mathews LX was like that....1/32" out and it still tuned. My Hoyt Spyder- no. 1/32" and you could see the difference in your groups at 60 yds.

_____

 

[dkime]

If tight groups are what you are after, you'll eventually come to learn that a perfectly straight bareshaft impact may not be the end all be all for your tune. Many many many local, state, national, world records are shot with a slight nock high, left, right, etc tear with a bareshaft. This isn't going to necessarily going to be the case with broadheads, but you'll have to shoot them to find what is best for you.

 

[406unltd]

The tail right wasn’t a slight type of deal, atleast to me it wasn’t but I’m not experienced with this. I’d say at first it was about 1”- 1.5” right. Shaft was touching fletched shaft at 20 when I fixed the nock high, just had the tail right to fix still. That’s the other thing I’m confused about bareshaft tuning. Does the fletched and bareshaft need to be parallel (angle out of the target the same) as each other, and group well, or is it just group well and let that tail do whatever? Or is the tail indicative of the good or bad release we had?

If tight groups are what you are after, you'll eventually come to learn that a perfectly straight bareshaft impact may not be the end all be all for your tune. Many many many local, state, national, world records are shot with a slight nock high, left, right, etc tear with a bareshaft. This isn't going to necessarily going to be the case with broadheads, but you'll have to shoot them to find what is best for you.

 

[dkime]

The tail right wasn’t a slight type of deal, atleast to me it wasn’t but I’m not experienced with this. I’d say at first it was about 1”- 1.5” right. Shaft was touching fletched shaft at 20 when I fixed the nock high, just had the tail right to fix still. That’s the other thing I’m confused about bareshaft tuning. Does the fletched and bareshaft need to be parallel (angle out of the target the same) as each other, and group well, or is it just group well and let that tail do whatever? Or is the tail indicative of the good or bad release we had?

Ran outside quick for a quick 40yd group, the only difference between these two pictures is how the bow sat in my grip hand. From my experience, once you get a bareshaft to impact perpendicular to the target, POI shift is tuned via grip pressure


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[406unltd]

Ok so you think I should be golden then?

Ran outside quick for a quick 40yd group, the only difference between these two pictures is how the bow sat in my grip hand. From my experience, once you get a bareshaft to impact perpendicular to the target, POI shift is tuned via grip pressure


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