Bareshaft struggles

Pinewood

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Oct 4, 2015
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I'm trying to bare shaft tune my alpha x 33 and it's not going well. 28" draw, 300 spine Easton Axis with 100 grain tips. Field points are money out to 60(fixed 5 pin). Tonight I slapped a bare arrow on and I'm hitting 10 inches right and 5-6 inches high. There is no way I can adjust my rest(Hamskea Hybrid) enough to make this happen. I know my timing is about an 1/8" off(top cam hits first). Shims are factory and I haven't moved anything yet. I'm pretty comfortable shooting and I don't think I'm influencing the bow with torque.

Any suggestion where to start?
 

Bc45

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Get your bow properly tuned is what I would do first. Then I would worry about where the arrows are hitting, you will be chasing your tail trying to fix things if you’re not tuned. Also I don’t know if you’re wanting to shoot broadheads but I skip the bareshaft tuning. Shoot your broadheads first then field point and get them hitting the same spot out to as far as you can go with being comfortable. If you are not using broadheads and just shooting for fun then you can try using a bare shaft but not point in being redundant and adding an extra step that’s not needed.
 

Zac

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You have a low left tear. I would move your loop up just a touch if you can. If your rest is already maxed to the right then you need to take it back to 13/16. Pull the axles and move one of the cams further to the left. If that doesn’t fix it just repeat with the other cam. You can shoot a fixed blade if you want but it won’t show you anything different.
 

Dennis

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What poundage? How much insert weight up front?

I start with bare shaft tuning at close range ( 3-7 yards) to see what is happening at launch. Small rest adjustments can make a huge difference.
 
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Pinewood

Pinewood

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What poundage? How much insert weight up front?

I start with bare shaft tuning at close range ( 3-7 yards) to see what is happening at launch. Small rest adjustments can make a huge difference.
70lbs, standard Easton inserts. Total arrow weight is 442 grains. 100 grain tips/
 

Dennis

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They should fly! Now shoot a bare shaft through paper at fairly close range. I would suggest shooting the same shaft, multiple shots through paper at the same distance. Is every tear similar? Is the nock high low left or right? The tears will guide you on what corrections might be needed and or identify any form issues.
 
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Pinewood

Pinewood

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They should fly! Now shoot a bare shaft through paper at fairly close range. I would suggest shooting the same shaft, multiple shots through paper at the same distance. Is every tear similar? Is the nock high low left or right? The tears will guide you on what corrections might be needed and or identify any form issues.
Thanks, I'll do that today.
 
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Pinewood

Pinewood

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So if it’s that bad at 20 I would almost bet money it’s your grip.
Yeah that's the same thing my buddy said. I don't see how it can be. I grip lightly with "proper" hand position. Do my best to not grab the bow when it's releasing. It's shocking how much effect those vanes have on correcting stuff.
 

Beendare

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The dirty little secret about Bareshaft tuning....
Very few can shoot a bare shaft many times in a row perfect.

I usually either paper tune with FP's to get it close....or just eyeball it...then shoot BH's and FP's at distance to tune.
 

rclouse79

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I had a terrible time tying to tune my last bow until I realized the bow was fine and the archery shop sold me under spined arrows. It was a good life lesson to not blindly take someone else's word at face value, especially an 18-year-old kid who has probably worked there for a couple weeks. After I switched to a heavier arrow my first bare shaft through paper was a bullet hole. Not sure if your issue is related to this or not, but good luck figuring it out.
 

Zac

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Yeah that's the same thing my buddy said. I don't see how it can be. I grip lightly with "proper" hand position. Do my best to not grab the bow when it's releasing. It's shocking how much effect those vanes have on correcting stuff.
I still think it’s your grip. Even if your relaxed your riser is probably too close to the lifeline. I thought the same as you until I took a lesson. I couldn’t believe how much it cleaned things up.
 

GatorGar247

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Personally without being there I'd have a hard time judging your form.. If you feel like you have decent form, get your bow back into spec then fix the horizontal tear by shimming the cams.. If you can't lower the rest move the loop up. Personally i like my arrow in the top 1/3 of the berger on hoyts. Get the bareshaft close at 10 yards then back up and broadhead tune..

As a side note . You can make the bow shoot with one of the cams advanced.. I do it on my bows . It effects the hold on target. But that's a whole nother rabbit hole that I wouldn't go down at this point..
 

Jbehredt

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I still think it’s your grip. Even if your relaxed your riser is probably too close to the lifeline. I thought the same as you until I took a lesson. I couldn’t believe how much it cleaned things up.
This is a fact. Bare shafts will say as much about the archer as they do about the bow. Try subtle changes in your hand position and see what it does. It’s free and easy. Keep it natural in case it does clear everything up. You’ll have to make it repeatable.
 

Zac

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It could be a lot of things, the mistake I make is that I pull my release hand away from my face instead of straight back. It results in an absolutely horrible left tear with most bows. Right tear with Bowtech.
 
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is no way I can adjust my rest(Hamskea Hybrid) enough to make this happen. I know my timing is about an 1/8" off(top cam hits first).

Problem 1

Shims are factory and I haven't moved anything yet.

Problem 2

This is why you can't move your rest any more..

Your bow isn't in tune.. You provided the reasons for your problem, go to a shop or a friend who can fix this.
 
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