Banish 30 Suppressor Cleaning

[Dave C.]

Breakthrough suppressor cleaner. Give it 20 minutes if its not heavily built up and it will wipe right off with a cloth. If its heavily built up give it up to 24 hours and once again will wipe clean with a cloth. I haven't had to scrub a single one of my serviceable suppressors since starting to use this stuff.

I just bought some of this stuff after soaking, scrubbing and ultimately borrowing a friend's ultrasonic last time around. I hope it works as well as you say.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Just shoot the damn thing, cleaning is for the internet for real.

My banish 30 (the shittiest silencer available) has pieces of scale stuck in the baffles that won’t come out, it is like a rattle.

 

[journeyman713]

My banish 30 (the shittiest silencer available) has pieces of scale stuck in the baffles that won’t come out, it is like a rattle.

Hmmm...
Have you read this thread?
The best way on cleaning the baffles, was clearly pointed out.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Hmmm...
Have you read this thread?
The best way on cleaning the baffles, was clearly pointed out.

I was replying to the guy who said “just shoot it” and to not clean it, just pointing out why I need to clean the one I have.

 

[bruno747]

I just bought some if this stuff after soaking, scrubbing and ultimately borrowing a friend's ultrasonic last time around. I hope it works as well as you say.

I just drop all the baffles in a ziplock bag, spray enough in to get everything coated and have a little pooled in the bag. Manipulate them in the bag part way through so everything gets well coated again. Cant say I have tried it on a heavily built up 22 suppressor full of lead yet, but the reviews I read before I bought some was incredible on some wildly built up baffles.

Be prepared to have a mess of patches or cloths look like you soaked them in used diesel oil once you start wiping the baffles off.

 

[crowlja]

My baffles are stuck and Silencer Central is apparently out of stock on the baffle removal tool.
Anyone have any tips? I haven't attempted the wooden dowel trick yet...due to not having one handy, I have tried using a cleaning rod but didn't want to to bang on the thing too had and damage any of the baffles.

 

[swavescatter]

I would try buying the breakthrough kit and soak the whole thing for 24 hours. Hopefully that will loosen everything up. Otherwise just make a little wooden dowel to tap out gently.

 

[Weldor]

I just use a old pill bottle and soak the baffles in Breakthrough Carbon Pro. Nylon brush after a soak and your done. It does seem strange that you don't clean a Havester 30, but it is recommended to clean the Banish 30 after 50-100 rds?

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I just use a old pill bottle and soak the baffles in Breakthrough Carbon Pro. Nylon brush after a soak and your done. It does seem strange that you don't clean a Havester 30, but it is recommended to clean the Banish 30 after 50-100 rds?

Because if you don't clean the banish 30 it gets stuck together and being "user serviceable" is their selling point with that silencer. In reality though, it's a cost cutting measure. Its much easier, faster and cheaper for them to make threaded end caps and baffles that sit loose in the tub than it is to properly weld all that stuff together like a thunder beast or something.

My banish 30 is fused shut even though I didn't put all that many rounds through it, the cap is completely carbon locked on in its 7" configuration. Rather than deal with silencer central, it's now just sort of a sealed can and being treated as such. This isn't unheard of, there are lots of reports of this exact same thing happening. Silencer central has been less than helpful, they told me to "put it in a vice but be careful because if I damage the tube that's not going to be covered under warranty". They also told me that I can send it in but they might damage the tube...".

All that to say, m the banish 30 is a low quality product that requires maintenance pretty much every time you shoot it or its going to get carbon locked together.

 

[journeyman713]

My banish 30 is fused shut even though I didn't put all that many rounds through it, the cap is completely carbon locked on in its 7" configuration. Rather than deal with silencer central, it's now just sort of a sealed can and being treated as such. This isn't unheard of, there are lots of reports of this exact same thing happening. Silencer central has been less than helpful, they told me to "put it in a vice but be careful because if I damage the tube that's not going to be covered under warranty". They also told me that I can send it in but they might damage the tube...".

All that to say, m the banish 30 is a low quality product that requires maintenance pretty much every time you shoot it or its going to get carbon locked together.

I addressed a solution to this problem here

I had the same thing happen, for a while. Lost sleep over it, came up with a solution.

You probably already know, you cannot get enough torque on the cap removal tool, using the L-key that came with it, without the lobes disengaging.

Here’s what I did.
Soaked the suppressor in solvent, for a couple days.
Used T45 socket with an impact driver on the removal tool, a strap wrench to help keep the suppressor from spinning.

You’re really going to need to lean into it, to keep the lobes engaged. A small rubber mat underneath the suppressor helps protect the other end.

The cap removal tool is made of aluminum and softer than the suppressor end cap, so there’s no need to worry about damaging anything but the tool, which is cheap.

 

[crowlja]

I was in the same boat last night with the end cap stuck on. I ended up putting the L-key in a vice with the removal tool, put on tacky/grippy gloves and was able to spin the end cap off. Thought that I was going to break something for a second right before it broke free but it finally came apart.

I do agree that they need a better take down method...and the baffles removal tool should come with the Banish line of supressers.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I was in the same boat last night with the end cap stuck on. I ended up putting the L-key in a vice with the removal tool, put on tacky/grippy gloves and was able to spin the end cap off. Thought that I was going to break something for a second right before it broke free but it finally came apart.

I do agree that they need a better take down method...and the baffles removal tool should come with the Banish line of supressers.

The baffle removal tool came with mine. I’ve never used it though. Probably never will at this point.

 

[crowlja]

The baffle removal tool came with mine. I’ve never used it though. Probably never will at this point.

This was the setup I had to get the end cap off. Pretty basic but it did work.

 

[crowlja]

My baffles are stuck and Silencer Central is apparently out of stock on the baffle removal tool.
Anyone have any tips? I haven't attempted the wooden dowel trick yet...due to not having one handy, I have tried using a cleaning rod but didn't want to to bang on the thing too had and damage any of the baffles.

Update:
I found the breakthrough supresser cleaning kit over at Schelds and based off of one of the responses to my issue here, I picked it up. Dunked my supresser in it around 6:30p , did the dad and family stuff, and one everyone was in bed I went to work on my supresser around 10pm. So just about 3.5 hour soak.

Took a little more aggressive handling if the Can than I would have liked, and for a bit there I thought I may have damaged the rear baffle as I got a 1/2" dowel stuck in the can, but I was able to get the baffles out and started cleaning everything.

I actually got everything fairly clean other than the inside of the main body of the Banish...but decided to give it all another soak till tomorrow evening to see how much carbon I can actually get outta there.

Tha is for the info! Never heard of this stuff before but when I walked into Schelds, it was literally the first item I saw. Funny how that works sometimes.

 

[Weldor]

Are you guys using nickel based anti seize or food grade anti seize on the threads? Just curious. I have used it since day one and never had a problem? I put it on the barrel threads also. Alittle bit goes along way.

 

[journeyman713]

Are you guys using nickel based anti seize or food grade anti seize on the threads? Just curious. I have used it since day one and never had a problem? I put it on the barrel threads also. Alittle bit goes along way.

I got away from the Anti-seize in this application after having the problem above, with it on the threads.
My thinking was, the fine close tolerance threads, have too little room for error, to put a noncompressible additive into it.

For the threads on the cap ends, I've been using Super Lube , with much better success.

 

[crowlja]

Ive been using breach plug grease from thompson center for muzzleloaders. Which seamed to work well. But swapped end caps at the range one day, and I think i just used normal gun grease...then I probably put close to 4-500 rds between cleanings. So...maybe my bad. Lol