Bad plan to get started?

[Hschweers]

How many shots in that 1/2" group?

This is a 10 shot group I loaded on my lock and load ap using redding type s full length sizing die, powder charge dispensed by my chargemaster and bullet seated using a forster micrometer seating die

View attachment 548847

On that same press, I also load 223 using standard rcbs dies and throwing the ball powder from the Hornady powder measure, the picture below has 5 different powder charges at 100 yards while I was looking for pressure. View attachment 548855

If you're would work for you, i can post my full equipment list.

3 shot groups. 1/2” 3 shot groups. Nothing crazy. It’s achievable with factory in certain rounds, but not rounds I’m interested in hunting with. And I have a hunch velocity ES is large in factory and it starts to show at 300+y.

The type S dies intimidate me cause of the bushings. For my 6.5PRC I have new lapua brass and once fired hornady brass. Those (should) require different bushings. 308 brass is a medley of hornady, federal, Remington, sig, etc once fired. All would require different bushings. Just seems like another headache, and if not entirely necessary I’d like to not go that route. But if it’s gonna be required for my goals, I guess I’ll have to.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Just pick one brand of brass no matter what you do. Preferably one lot of that one brand.

 

[waldo9190]

Surf the web for decent used equipment, that is how I started. If you're loading for precision and not volume, a GOOD beam scale will serve you better than most electronic scales. Anyone who thinks contrary is spewing hokum.

 

[marksman1941]

Don't overcomplicate it. Get full length RCBS sizing dies, a basic RockChucker or bench mounted press, and a quality balance scale. I've seen too many electronic scales shit the bed, or give false readings while looking like it's reading correct. An rcbs hand primer, a powder trickler, basic quality calipers, and a small set of gunsmithing drivers (wheeler makes good stuff) and you'll be well on your way. I would advise against a progressive press as a starter. If you have the money, buy an RCBS master reloading kit and it comes with literally everything you need aside from a trickler to get started. If you go that route, I'd recommend buying a powder drop stand for the extra $30. Start simple though. Read the entire intro to your loading manual before doing a single thing, and everytime you start to reload, re-read the intro and remind yourself of the process.

 

[Thebigbaby]

Thanks all! Okay, so a vote to nix the tumbler.

Is my list of what I NEED below complete?

Hand press
Decapper
Case trimmer
Hand priming unit
Scale
308 & 6.5 PRC dies (sizing die and seating/crimping die at a minimum?)
Tray

Is that it? Is that all that is absolutely required?

Lube, case neck brush and maybe reloading book and maybe bullet puller.

Slowly piecing together is not a bad idea but keep in mind shipping costs. Could potentially raise the cost significantly.

Also in my opinion you should get a bench mounted press.

 

[EastHumboldt]

did you look at this kit? Everything in it works really well except the scale. I personally don’t like the hand press, but to each his own.

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit

The Lee Precision Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit is a great kit for the beginning reloader or seasoned reloader looking to add to their...

www.midwayusa.com

 

[Hschweers]

did you look at this kit? Everything in it works really well except the scale. I personally don’t like the hand press, but to each his own.

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit

The Lee Precision Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit is a great kit for the beginning reloader or seasoned reloader looking to add to their...

www.midwayusa.com

That does look like a pretty good deal. The primers have to be single loaded if using federal (per their disclaimer), and the scale looks iffy, but I like the rest of it for a good price. Thanks!

 

[Gila]

Your die comments have sent me down a die rabbit hole all day. I don’t know what I don’t know. Here I was thinking go buy the proper dies for your cartridge and get to it, but that’s a whole other world/debate.

I like the idea of the micrometer seating dies (forster, Redding, etc). That makes sense to me.

I don’t understand FL sizing, neck sizing, crimping, bushings, neck tension, etc. If I just went with a Redding premium series 2 die set (FL sizing and micrometer seating) would I leave a lot to be desired? My goals aren’t crazy, as my primary goal is to load bullets I’m not currently able to shoot from factory. I think 1/2” at 100y and consistent velocity for drop calls is all I’m chasing right now. Would FL sizing (with whatever neck tension that creates) and the micrometer seating die be able to reasonably achieve that?

Most people who reload for 6.5 PRC and .308 are interested in precision reloading for precision shooting. If all you want to do is just load general purpose hunting ammo using short conventional bullets that can use a crimp, then neck tension isn’t a concern. However the low drag bullets that have a secant or hybrid OGIVE and/or monos with driving bands should have the correct neck tension. You can use a bushing die or an expanding mandrel or even a combination of both to achieve this. Yes you will probably need multiple bushings for different brands of brass.

But even if you stick to one type of brass if/or when you neck turn may need a another bushing. This is where a ball micrometer comes in handy. The way I see it, if I am dropping money on hand-loading, I want to get the most out of my effort and components. The Hornady match grades just aren’t up to my expectations. They function ok with my 300 WM but not very well with my 284. For me I am going to get Redding S-type dies for my 284 anyway.

 

[EdP]

My internal neck lube process consists of sticking the neck into a small container of powdered graphite and #6 shot. The shot keeps the graphite from caking in the neck. No brush or anything else needed. My trickler is a 30-30 case that I put powder in and tap with my index finger to add kernals of powder as needed. A quality beam scale is enough for me to get sub 1/2 moa 5 shot groups from rifles capable of doing it. Drop a little low from a powder measure and trickle up. An expensive electronic scale would be nice, and something I could easily afford, but as a hunter vs competitive shooter, it is not something that makes sense.

You WILL need a case trimmer eventually, and an inside and outside neck reamer to take off the post trim burr. Reloading, or rather "handloading," is like many hobbies in that you can do the basics or take it to extremes. There is a minimum investment necessary and an almost unlimited investment available.

 

[Hschweers]

Most people who reload for 6.5 PRC and .308 are interested in precision reloading for precision shooting. If all you want to do is just load general purpose hunting ammo using short conventional bullets that can use a crimp, then neck tension isn’t a concern. However the low drag bullets that have a secant or hybrid OGIVE and/or monos with driving bands should have the correct neck tension. You can use a bushing die or an expanding mandrel or even a combination of both to achieve this. Yes you will probably need multiple bushings for different brands of brass.

But even if you stick to one type of brass if/or when you neck turn may need a another bushing. This is where a ball micrometer comes in handy. The way I see it, if I am dropping money on hand-loading, I want to get the most out of my effort and components. The Hornady match grades just aren’t up to my expectations. They function ok with my 300 WM but not very well with my 284. For me I am going to get Redding S-type dies for my 284 anyway.

Knowing my personality, I’m sure it will turn to much more than I’m saying now. I’m just looking for a relatively simple way to get started while still producing better than factory quality Ammo. However, I do understand that I could be throwing $150 at a set of dies that I may want to replace a couple months in, which I should consider.

 

[NRA4LIFE]

I used to just decap with my sizing dies but I have now gone with a Mighty Armory universal die. I also use the Lee hand press so I can just sit and watch TV while decapping. MA decapping pins are rock solid and I've never had one break or even bend. I accidentally put a Burden primed .223 case through it and it punched right through.

And do not even think about buying the Lee decapping die. Total garbage.

 

[marksman1941]

Knowing my personality, I’m sure it will turn to much more than I’m saying now. I’m just looking for a relatively simple way to get started while still producing better than factory quality Ammo. However, I do understand that I could be throwing $150 at a set of dies that I may want to replace a couple months in, which I should consider.

For what you want right now, you don’t need high end dies. Buy basic RCBS dies, use them until you feel like they’re the limiting factor to your accuracy. Then sell them for 75% what you paid, and go buy the high end dies. I’ll always advocate to start with quality gear, but there are some things that aren’t required for better than factory accuracy. If you’re a benchrest shooter then it’s a whole different game, and some folks have started down that path in this thread. But for intro to reloading, don’t go there yet.

 

[Hschweers]

Totally unrelated to this original post, but y’all have been very nice and helpful and I greatly appreciate it.

When trying to acquire components - I know which bullets I want to hunt with (partitions for the 308, accubonds for the PRC). Do you buy and develop separate “range” loads that use cheaper bullets when you just want to go shoot? Nosler bullets are $1+ each, and by far the most expensive part of the load. I don’t have a dedicated “range” gun, so I use both of my guns for fun target shooting and for hunting. Just seems kinda silly to burn $1+ a shot when there are bullets with as good (or better) BCs for $0.40/shot.

 

[marksman1941]

Totally unrelated to this original post, but y’all have been very nice and helpful and I greatly appreciate it.

When trying to acquire components - I know which bullets I want to hunt with (partitions for the 308, accubonds for the PRC). Do you buy and develop separate “range” loads that use cheaper bullets when you just want to go shoot? Nosler bullets are $1+ each, and by far the most expensive part of the load. I don’t have a dedicated “range” gun, so I use both of my guns for fun target shooting and for hunting. Just seems kinda silly to burn $1+ a shot when there are bullets with as good (or better) BCs for $0.40/shot.

definitely run separate bullets. You have to keep track of different loads and you have to sight back in before season every year but that’s still cheaper than burning primo bullets shooting rocks in the woods.

I hunt almost exclusively with federal trophy bonded tip bullets which are ridiculously hard to find. So 168gr Sierra match kings get used for playing in all of my .30 cals

 

[Gila]

Totally unrelated to this original post, but y’all have been very nice and helpful and I greatly appreciate it.

When trying to acquire components - I know which bullets I want to hunt with (partitions for the 308, accubonds for the PRC). Do you buy and develop separate “range” loads that use cheaper bullets when you just want to go shoot? Nosler bullets are $1+ each, and by far the most expensive part of the load. I don’t have a dedicated “range” gun, so I use both of my guns for fun target shooting and for hunting. Just seems kinda silly to burn $1+ a shot when there are bullets with as good (or better) BCs for $0.40/shot.

Accubonds and partitions are difficult to find sometimes and expensive. You can pick up 2nds for less than a qtr each.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Imo, practice and hunt with the same bullet. 147 eldms for your prc, any 150-165gr Spitzer or plastic tipped bullet for your 308. The more consistent your loads are day to day the more time you can spend working on your marksmanship instead of chasing your tail in load development.

This approach flat out works

Painless load development (mine)

I have had multiple people ask me to lay out how I do load development being that what I do is different. Since Shaen @Shooter71 just rebarreled a Tikka 595 in 6XC I thought it would be easy to show how I do it. It’s a Master Sporter with a T3 lite profiled 20” barrel- keep in mind it is a T3...

rokslide.com

 

[EdP]

I find loads that shoot the same as or very close to my hunting loads, but with less expensive bullets. For me generally it is Gamekings and Accubonds. Both fly extremely well and the BCs are very close. GKs are about 1/2 the cost of ABs. I also hunt with GKs a fair bit but use ABs for bigger game.

 

[Unckebob]

You don't need thousands to get started.

Buy one of these: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013017131 and a universl decapper die.

Then your 308 dies.

Find a used beam scale, they are cheap and accurate. Cheap electronic ones suck. Start with a beam scale, dipper, and trickler.

RCBS hand primer with tray.

Your volume will be low-ish with the hand press, but it will get you started, learning the process, does not take up space since you don't even needa a bench, and it will help keep mistakes from happening by slowing you down and making it more deliberate. That press is useful at the range even after you have a bigger press and other tools, so not bad to have long term.

Cheers,
-mox

I would agree with this except for the hand press. I would just get a basic bench press.
- Used presses are out there for $70-150
- A new press like the Rock Chucker or MEC, which is a lifetime purchase, is $200. No matter how fancy one gets, a good, basic press will have a use.
- If money is really tight, the new Frankfort Arsenal F-1 press is $130 at places like midwayusa.

 

[Unckebob]

Totally unrelated to this original post, but y’all have been very nice and helpful and I greatly appreciate it.

When trying to acquire components - I know which bullets I want to hunt with (partitions for the 308, accubonds for the PRC). Do you buy and develop separate “range” loads that use cheaper bullets when you just want to go shoot? Nosler bullets are $1+ each, and by far the most expensive part of the load. I don’t have a dedicated “range” gun, so I use both of my guns for fun target shooting and for hunting. Just seems kinda silly to burn $1+ a shot when there are bullets with as good (or better) BCs for $0.40/shot.

I am a cheap badt@rd and save money (I don't compete) the following ways.
1) For plinking and practice, I use MidwayUSA factory seconds or other inexpensive target bullets.
2) For hunting, I use a bullet based upon what I want to do. If it is the same as the seconds, I use that load experience as a start.

Right now, I am working with some mystery seconds that look suspiciously like 143g tipped 6.5mm bullets that look suspiciously like 143g ELD-x. If I decide to use that bullet, I have a good place to start since my load data should

 

[Vern400]

Lots of good replies here. The real question I have is where do you want to go with this? Do you want to wring all the accuracy you can get out of each rifle you have and get your velocity extreme spreads down below 20 ft per second so you're good at long range? Or, do you simply want to get something that shoots as good or better than the best factory ammo you can buy? There comes a point where you have to weigh every charge, consider neck turning, using competition dies and checking concentricity..... And so on.

My thoughts for you are
Buy a real press. Like a used Rock chucker off of eBay. Buy competition dies with a micrometer to set bullet depth. I bought a RCBS chargemaster lite, and quit using my balance beam scale. I'm not anymore accurate now, but I'm a lot faster, and reloading is more enjoyable. Honestly, you can take it or leave it. And you really will have a hard time without a good set of calipers. Other than that you can go as cheaper as rich as you want to.

Prices are coming down as the economy slows down and ammo manufacturers are catching up. When you find recipes that work really well, you probably need to be thinking in terms of getting a five-year supply of components. The Obama shortage lasted almost 3 years. The pandemic shortage has lasted almost 3 years and we're about to come out of it.