Auto dealership Jargon?

[Reburn]

With the issues people are having with new vehicles, does anyone consider a local dealer for the service after the sale?

The stealerships around here want your truck for 3 weeks to fix anything. Including recalls. And dont do loaners anymore. And they dont care if you bought it there. I think you might get better service if its some tiny country stealership.

 

[Billy Goat]

A dealer is required to service your vehicle per the manufacturer regardless of where you purchased it from. Your warranty is with the manufacturer, not the dealer. I have been to several that say they only work on vehicles purchased with them, that is a BS sales tactic and will get them in hot water with the manufacturer if they attempt to follow through.

For out of warranty work, I always use a local shop. Every dealer service department I have ever used has sucked. If you do find a good one though, stick with them.

Of course they hafta service it.

But nothing says a thing about the time line.

When they are bringing me another piece of equipment because mines not working, I find I get fast tracked in service department.

 

[Billy Goat]

The stealerships around here want your truck for 3 weeks to fix anything. Including recalls. And dont do loaners anymore. And they dont care if you bought it there. I think you might get better service if its some tiny country stealership.

I forget how good I have it.


I still pump my fuel then go in and pay for it around here.

 

[Reburn]

I forget how good I have it.


I still pump my fuel then go in and pay for it around here.

They cant even turn the pumps on without payment first here. But I also dont remember the last time I saw pumps that didnt have credit card readers built in. Shit thats a lie. The truck stop in springer NM doesnt have diesel credit card readers. And they wont let you pump first then pay.

 

[Billy Goat]

They cant even turn the pumps on without payment first here. But I also dont remember the last time I saw pumps that didnt have credit card readers built in. Shit thats a lie. The truck stop in springer NM doesnt have diesel credit card readers. And they wont let you pump first then pay.

They have card readers at the pump, but those things get skimmers or whatever in them all the time. Ill rarely swipe a card through one. Too much headache when it happens.

Now, across the hill they have a pump that is the old style, rotary dial meter. No digital. I just turn it on, pump, go inside and tell them how much it was.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Question for you smart folks. So I’m interested in a vehicle that is listed as “new” in the lot. It’s a 2025 and has all the dealership stock photos.

They are really trying to get vehicle sales and there are crazy incentives from the OEM right now. MSRP is $63,000 and this one, and all similar trucks are listed online for $49,900.

The one I’m interested in particular, I had the manager send me actual photos and a video of the truck. I noticed a giant “Courtesy Vehicle” sticker on the rear window.

I asked him about it and he said they’ve been using it as a loaner/courtesy vehicle since it arrived on the lot. He said it’s still “new” but has 1,600 miles on it.

Here’s my question… Let’s say I want to buy it, do you think there is more wiggle room in the price or will they still push me to pay the $49,900 even though it’s been driven by who knows how many idiots getting their car serviced?

 

[IdahoElk]

Everything mentioned is why I only buy from private parties with cars that have good service records and a Carfax that checks out, I dread walking into dealerships.

 

[Fowl Play]

Of course they hafta service it.

But nothing says a thing about the time line.

When they are bringing me another piece of equipment because mines not working, I find I get fast tracked in service department.

If you have a dealership that still treats you right for being a loyal customer. Stick with them.

No one around here does anything like that anymore. Example: The most recent Ford dealer I purchased from had my '22 F350 for 2 weeks to fix a minor sensor issue under warranty. I called them with the Ford recall number that clearly laid out the replacement parts to schedule my appointment. Had to wait 3 months to get in. They didn't order the sensor until my truck was in their shop, and if I picked my truck up while waiting for the part to come in, they would push me back to the end of the 3 month line. So I had no vehicle for 2 weeks, no loaner, and they put a huge dent in the side of my truck that they never fixed right.

I hate stealer ships.

 

[Billy Goat]

Question for you smart folks. So I’m interested in a vehicle that is listed as “new” in the lot. It’s a 2025 and has all the dealership stock photos.

They are really trying to get vehicle sales and there are crazy incentives from the OEM right now. MSRP is $63,000 and this one, and all similar trucks are listed online for $49,900.

The one I’m interested in particular, I had the manager send me actual photos and a video of the truck. I noticed a giant “Courtesy Vehicle” sticker on the rear window.

I asked him about it and he said they’ve been using it as a loaner/courtesy vehicle since it arrived on the lot. He said it’s still “new” but has 1,600 miles on it.

Here’s my question… Let’s say I want to buy it, do you think there is more wiggle room in the price or will they still push me to pay the $49,900 even though it’s been driven by who knows how many idiots getting their car serviced?

More than likely.

I haven't lately, but use to buy the demo pieces as often as I could.

Usually manufacturer had an additional kick back on them to help move them.

I assume thats still the case, but I'm not certain.

 

[Billy Goat]

If you have a dealership that still treats you right for being a loyal customer. Stick with them.

No one around here does anything like that anymore. Example: The most recent Ford dealer I purchased from had my '22 F350 for 2 weeks to fix a minor sensor issue under warranty. I called them with the Ford recall number that clearly laid out the replacement parts to schedule my appointment. Had to wait 3 months to get in. They didn't order the sensor until my truck was in their shop, and if I picked my truck up while waiting for the part to come in, they would push me back to the end of the 3 month line. So I had no vehicle for 2 weeks, no loaner, and they put a huge dent in the side of my truck that they never fixed right.

I hate stealer ships.

I can't say everything goes perfect, but places I deal with try to value my time, or give the look that they do.



The other places, I don't deal with them. Several dealerships around I won't step foot in, majority over someone else's experience there, but I'm not supporting anywhere that would treat a customer like that so I avoid them. Try to keep the good ones going.

 

[krisn416]

IMO, don’t buy the loaner. I’d rather have a vehicle never driven by “who knows how many idiots” lol. I’d keep searching for what I want closer to what I wanted to pay. If it’s a car you have to have, and that’s the only way you could get it, or literally the only one you can find, negotiate the heck out of it til the difference outweighs being Tokyo-drifted the first 1,600 miles of its life. Personally I will never buy a car that’s been a loaner, rental, lease, driven by a kid, has any sort of mods done, or had more than one previous owner. If buying used and looking at dealers, I search specifically for one-owner cars that have had regular dealer maintenance and no repeat issues. A great tool is searching for one-owner vehicles using Carfax, vehicle history info is available on there for free. Some guys like me do their own maintenance, so a detailed service log and paid Carfax report would suffice if going through a private party. Every used vehicle, before I buy it, gets an independent mechanic inspection by someone trusted. If it’s a cheaper vehicle and a good deal and I know it will sell immediately so I have to jump on it, or the seller is someone I know, that obviously changes things somewhat.

 

[paulgibbs01]

Do your market research on prices using Edmund’ for out the door prices. Look at dealer inventory online. Make offer online on vehicle your are after based on fair market price and see if they accept it. Go to dealership, sign papers and drive off the lot.

I don’t deal with sales people and their crap anymore. I do all my research ahead of time and come from an informed position.

I’m in the truck market soon and didn’t think to make offers and everything online. That’s a great idea and appreciate advice!

 

[Randy11]

Question for you smart folks. So I’m interested in a vehicle that is listed as “new” in the lot. It’s a 2025 and has all the dealership stock photos.

They are really trying to get vehicle sales and there are crazy incentives from the OEM right now. MSRP is $63,000 and this one, and all similar trucks are listed online for $49,900.

The one I’m interested in particular, I had the manager send me actual photos and a video of the truck. I noticed a giant “Courtesy Vehicle” sticker on the rear window.

I asked him about it and he said they’ve been using it as a loaner/courtesy vehicle since it arrived on the lot. He said it’s still “new” but has 1,600 miles on it.

Here’s my question… Let’s say I want to buy it, do you think there is more wiggle room in the price or will they still push me to pay the $49,900 even though it’s been driven by who knows how many idiots getting their car serviced?

During COVID, when used prices were higher than new, those same dealerships would take a brand new truck, put 50 miles on it, and then sell it as "used" so there was no MSRP to follow.

 

[roadrunner]

I've never been interested in how much their profit will be and let them know that upfront the same time I remind them there is a dealer out there willing to earn my business.

I'm writing the check, not them. They do not control the "negotiation"...

 

[wyosteve]

I’m in the truck market soon and didn’t think to make offers and everything online. That’s a great idea and appreciate advice!

Our last 5 vehicles were purchased using only emails and texts. Took about 20 mins. each time to reach a deal. The only way to do it in my opinion.

 

[CorbLand]

I have walked into 4 dealerships to look at vehicles and only once have I left impressed.

I cant help on the Jargon but about the only thing the salesman I have worked with knew to say is what do you want your monthly payment to be? Didnt care how many times I said that I worry far less about the monthly than I do the total cost to me.

One thing I have been told by a couple people that do work for dealerships is that they are more likely to work with you on initial pricing if you are going to finance it. Give you a 1000 bucks off, just to collect 5000 in interest kind of deal. Dont let them know you are paying cash, act as if you are going to finance. Very few have early pay off penalties so you finance them to get the deal and then pay off the loan in a couple weeks/months.

 

[Hydra6]

With the issues people are having with new vehicles, does anyone consider a local dealer for the service after the sale?

Last truck I got a loaner for 3 years or 75k miles I think if it was in for warranty work. Luckily haven't had to use it.


I have been pushing that with equipment more than with vehicles, I have other vehicles/trucks. But I'm finding more and more I'd rather deal with a place local to me that I'm buying from and having any warranty work done at. Instead of just dealing with service, the sales department is helping to keep me happy too. I get an idea of what prices are before I'm ever asking for a price, I might pay a little more, but with issues that arise I feel like I'm getting way better service than someone who purchased something from 6-8 hrs away to save a little.


Or ima 'tard.

After my GMC Sierra AT4 experience - I will ask a new car dealer "how will you handle a vehicle that is in your shop for months because GMC (Ford, Ram, Toyota, etc.) cannot supply the repair parts?".

 

[TaperPin]

I like to find two identical vehicles in dealerships not owned by the same guy. They will try to wear you out with back and forth bs, but eventually one will say uncle.

BUT, beware of charges you did not agree to. When I showed up to pick the vehicle up and sign paperwork, there was a $500 charge to install a GPS receiver. I was spitting mad and should have walked away on principle since they wouldn’t budge or take it off. They got my business on price, had me wait a month on a 4 Runner just getting in the country that still smelled like the perfume of the little Japanese girl that drove it onto the boat, and unfortunately it was during a 4Runner shortage and if I didn’t buy it someone else would have.

On used cars go at the end of the month after a big holiday or event. When I bought a car in Cheyenne after Frontier Days at the end of the month they showed me everything and it wasn’t until nothing seemed to be worth it they drove out a car that was twice the deal. Sold! Lol

Many of my friends have bought through Costco or other online sources.

 

[Wheels]

Question for you smart folks. So I’m interested in a vehicle that is listed as “new” in the lot. It’s a 2025 and has all the dealership stock photos.

They are really trying to get vehicle sales and there are crazy incentives from the OEM right now. MSRP is $63,000 and this one, and all similar trucks are listed online for $49,900.

The one I’m interested in particular, I had the manager send me actual photos and a video of the truck. I noticed a giant “Courtesy Vehicle” sticker on the rear window.

I asked him about it and he said they’ve been using it as a loaner/courtesy vehicle since it arrived on the lot. He said it’s still “new” but has 1,600 miles on it.

Here’s my question… Let’s say I want to buy it, do you think there is more wiggle room in the price or will they still push me to pay the $49,900 even though it’s been driven by who knows how many idiots getting their car serviced?

I bought my truck last year that was a “courtesy vehicle” had about 3000 miles on it. They will definitely deal on them, It took a couple hours but they came to my price. Basically lay it out to them that it is a used vehicle you are buying and if you drove it in there they would really try to low ball you on it if trading.

 

[Axlrod]

During COVID, when used prices were higher than new, those same dealerships would take a brand new truck, put 50 miles on it, and then sell it as "used" so there was no MSRP to follow.

I bought a new truck during covid. The dealer purchased it from a private party, that had ordered it from a dealer in another state, and needed to sell it when it finally came in. The truck had 106 miles on it and was sold as new because it had never been titled.