Atv trailer

Joined
Sep 9, 2012
Messages
2,012
Location
BC
I have a 2003 Triton aluminum single axle tilting sled trailer I bought used in CO in 2008. The plywood trailer deck is 8'8" long x 6'8" wide and I have hauled two Honda quads side loaded from CO to BC. Have enough miles (km) on it to to wear out a couple sets of tires pulling it to Northern BC and around here on logging roads. Also use it it haul a Polaris RZR on occasion. Even hauled a backhoe for my 43HP tractor home from WA state on it....maxing out the 1750# load capacity.

It has Triton's "bearing buddy" greasable bearing and I've had no issue with bearings...grease them once a year. Torsion axle suspension works great..better than the leaf springs and shackles on my cargo trailer. Lights always work! No structural issues with heavy the welded aluminum frame or the loading ramp. Excellent tie down system too. I did replace the marine deck plywood a couple years ago.

For your use, I'd look for a 10' or 12' long tilt deck just like my old shorter Triton. The extra length would be necessary to haul bait barrels with two side loaded quads. And good luck bear hunting!
 
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
9,130
Location
Shenandoah Valley
I'm curious the longevity of these aluminum trailers. Aluminum stock trailers will develop cracks in weird places, curious if same happens in these little aluminum toy hauler trailers.


Granted, most steel stock trailers are rusted out in the same time period, but I know of several guys that switched back to steel stock trailers. Way cheaper up front, easier to fix, just replace more often.


I have a steel utility trailer for my utv. I'm hard on stuff, have dented fenders, got pissed with how the factory jack was, welded a new one on in a different spot. The rear gate has gotten messed up a few times from different things. I just back it up to the shop and mig weld it. I don't have a fancy aluminum mig gun, so for me, I feel like steel works better.
Most people probably don't have welders either so maybe it just really doesn't matter.
 
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akcabin

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 10, 2023
Messages
201
I would use steel a highway trailer.
After you get to where the truck won't go any further and you have heavy gear to get a ways back. An atv trailer is nice. I've used a few in ak bush and came up with this design. Inside axle so it's a big toboggan. And carries the load low And sealed weather tight. Slides over logs. I have both skis and atv tires I can switch out easily. So year round use. I have 2 different tongue attachments that bolt on, ball or pinal hitch for snogos.
A lid. Keeps mud out gear dry. Camp table. A round back. Going down a bank the tail end scrapes with a square tail n wear out. Noisy to. Tree deflectors. Jug of gas on tongue or cooler, tote. Tow hook on the back. Angle aluminum on sides so it doesn't oil can with lots of holes for hold downs.
I strap my 2x8 loading ramps on top for mud, crossing creeks. Driving down a steep back n back out.
Some trails get used hard. And I need my gear. Especially if going for a few days. 20210322_073208.jpg
 

ShortMagFan

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Dec 12, 2020
Messages
139
I had a local trailer shop make me a 6.5’x14’ (or is it 16’?) dual axle trailer. Custom made to my specs was significantly cheaper than a comparable trailer at tractor supply. Without the custom features I spec’d.

i wanted long enough to haul a crew size utv comfortably or a normal size utv + a pallet of corn or fertilizer.

the dual axle pulls so much smoother and provides peace of mind for a flat or hub gone bad.
 
Joined
May 9, 2018
Messages
11
If you only have one trailer, I would go at least 6x12’ with a folding back gate/ramp. Tractor supply sells some decent trailers.

Aluminum is nice but you also pay for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2018
Messages
1,306
Location
NW Arkansas
I had mine custom made specific for my needs. I tow with a Chevy Tahoe so needed something not too big but big enough. Also didn’t want the fold down ramp due to wind resistance. They built me a 12’ dual axle trailer. Front sides come off and double as ramps. I wanted to be able to drive an ATV on the front sideways and then pull one up normal in the back. Works perfect. It is also wider than most trailers. Can’t remember the actual width but best decision I ever made.
 

11boo

WKR
Joined
Feb 24, 2016
Messages
2,402
Location
Grand Jct, CO
I'm curious the longevity of these aluminum trailers. Aluminum stock trailers will develop cracks in weird places, curious if same happens in these little aluminum toy hauler trailers.


Granted, most steel stock trailers are rusted out in the same time period, but I know of several guys that switched back to steel stock trailers. Way cheaper up front, easier to fix, just replace more often.


I have a steel utility trailer for my utv. I'm hard on stuff, have dented fenders, got pissed with how the factory jack was, welded a new one on in a different spot. The rear gate has gotten messed up a few times from different things. I just back it up to the shop and mig weld it. I don't have a fancy aluminum mig gun, so for me, I feel like steel works better.
Most people probably don't have welders either so maybe it just really doesn't matter.

My Alumalite in that pic is 2012, bought used in fair shape. Tires got replaced as the previous owner ran them near bald. I have pulled my utv all over with it, on some nasty washboard roads too. No cracks.

no issues, routine bearing maintenance is all.
 
Joined
Mar 1, 2013
Messages
308
Location
Canada
Whatever route you go, check out the Erickson wheel chock kit - it’s a game changer for strapping down an ATV!
 

yfarm

WKR
Joined
Apr 24, 2018
Messages
537
Location
Arroyo City, Tx
Haul a full size 3 passenger Ranger on 12’ single axle Tractor supply trailer, bed int measures 65”x12’. Has traveled thousands of miles over the last 4 yrs. Lots of miles on poorly maintained BLM and FS roads. Wyoming, New Mexico. No issues with construction, tandem axle would be tough to maneuver in some areas. Has wood bed, would avoid steel mesh bed. Was advised to buy steel for ease of repairs in remote places and cost. Same trailer price has doubled since I bought it, al would be double that. Have had multiple boat travel and utility trailers with single axles over the years with occasional tire failures, never has an issue controlling the trailer and stopping. Buy the weight capacity you need. Hunt a ranch in northern NM, 3 hr trip on ranch roads to get back to the ranch. 2 yrs ago had a foot of snow with blizzard conditions going in, had no problems, when coming out passed a crew cab dually pulling a tandem coming in, was struggling where I cruised through. Year before a group had to leave their tandem trailer and utvs sitting up there all winter. Sent a 4wd tractor up to get their vehicles out.
 

204guy

WKR
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
1,292
Location
WY
Do you have a goose neck ball in your truck?

-From the guys that think you need a 300 mag to kill a deer.
 

cnelk

WKR
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
6,959
Location
Colorado
Due to space/storage I won’t be going over 12 feet. We don’t use salt here in the roads, so rust from that isn’t a concern. I don’t see the need for a dual axle either.

It sounds like tire size is a key concern. However and something I will consider aluminum seems to be the preferred.

You’d be surprised how much damage Mag chloride can do to to a steel trailer.
I try to keep mine hosed off but it sure can raise hell left unchecked. Even rots the treated deck boards
 
OP
C
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
1,821
You’d be surprised how much damage Mag chloride can do to to a steel trailer.
I try to keep mine hosed off but it sure can raise hell left unchecked. Even rots the treated deck boards
Good to know! I have a pop up, a little rust on it, but I don't pull it at all in the winter.
 

Weldor

WKR
Joined
Apr 20, 2022
Messages
1,259
Location
z
all good points. Out here in AZ. no corrosion issues. you could have a 75 year old trailer not a lick of rust on it. Wood dries out, just keep it oiled. My Can Am weighs 3000 lbs dry you won't find it on any single axle trailer, 110 degrees is hard on tires and bearings. prefer 4 tires on the ground, just in case of a blow out. JMHO. At 20k-35 for a new machine its cheap insurance to keep it upright.
 
OP
C
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
1,821
I' pulling a Honda foreman, not a full on side by side. A friend has a nice trailer for the majority of our big trips, but I need something as well. Good info for sure above and has me looking. I'm pretty sure I want one with rails so stuff isn't flying around, and I'm not too keen on those large ramps that seem to stick 4 feet up in the air when closed.

Most of my trips are 200 miles or more one way, so it seems that good tires are a must.

Thanks for the tips.
 

cnelk

WKR
Joined
Mar 1, 2012
Messages
6,959
Location
Colorado
Here’s a pic of my trailer I mentioned earlier in the thread.

I built both the back ramp and side ramps - I didn’t want the ramps to be stuck up high either.

I also made the back ramp so I can extend the bed another 3’ by using chains connected back to the frame of the trailer.


87446A91-E4FC-4F6D-A16B-453246D046C1.jpeg
 
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