Arrow wrap length overlapping arrow rest

[Alpha Echo]

So I'm running a 10 inch wrap (matte onestringer FWIW) on my arrows, which is long enough that my QAD drop away rest arm rides on the wrapped section. I've noticed some "fuzzy" residue on the felt of the rest arm, and I'm wondering whether I need to forget the long wraps and stick to wraps that do not overlap the rest in any way. Not sure if it will affect the felt's wear? Anything else? Accuracy? Any legit opinions are welcome.

 

[MattB]

What is the point of a 10” wrap? Seems like you found a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist, and created an actual problem in the process.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I agree that a 10" wrap is way longer than necessary, but I wouldn't worry about it. The rest arm should fall away before the wrapped portion of the arrow arrives (unless the rest is timed too slow). It's normal to see some wear on the rest arm/fork/launcher; the arrow shaft rubs there to some degree on every shot.

 

[Zac]

I would move that wrap to the front of the shaft for increased FOC.

 

[mighteywhitehunter]

I am unsure of why you would want such a long wrap... compensating for something? Haha

I usually use a 6-7 in wrap for Trad arrows because the vanes are longer, and a 4 in wrap for compounds, no contact issues with drop aways or limb driven rests.

I would trim down the wrap to ensure there is no contact with the rest. It could cause arrow flight issues due to the contact especially if the wrap starts peeling back.

 

[nubraskan]

I am unsure of why you would want such a long wrap... compensating for something? Haha

Come on, who hasn't bought the "magnums" when we were in college and left them in a conspicuous place when company was over.

 

[mighteywhitehunter]

Haha got me there!

 

[MattB]

Cut those 10” wraps in half.

 

[Alpha Echo]

HAHAHA I love all the responses. I must say I was not expecting all the "why?!" posts, though I should have known better seeing how I get that 10x a day from my 11 YO. Here's the context/history. I started building my own arrows a couple of years ago. First ones with no wrap, and had a hell of a time removing vanes when I tore them/shot holes through them, etc. So I went to wraps, and the cheapskate in me said, well why not buy 10 inch wraps, and cut them in half at @MattB suggests. But then, I got lazy.

Cutting them to 5 inches would still have the wraps contacting the rest arm (Hoyt Ventum Pro 30, 6 inch brace height, AAE Hybrid 26 vanes, ie 2.7 inches long). I would need to cut them to 4 inches to have them long enough to be under the entire vane, but not contact.

Based on all the responses, it sounds like I need to cut them to 4 inches, and just scrap 2 inches off the wrap...should have gone with 4 inch from the beginning. Lesson learned (again) to not cheapo out.

 

[Billy Goat]

When I had wraps years ago, I thought it was more work.

Damaged vane led to removing everything and starting over.

I replace single vane all the time without much fuss, but maybe I'm doing it wrong.

 

[Alpha Echo]

When I had wraps years ago, I thought it was more work.

Damaged vane led to removing everything and starting over.

I replace single vane all the time without much fuss, but maybe I'm doing it wrong.

I'd prefer that, but like I said removing a vane was a pain in the arse! What's your secret? What fletching glue and what solvent to remove it?

 

[doc holiday13]

When I had wraps years ago, I thought it was more work.

Damaged vane led to removing everything and starting over.

I replace single vane all the time without much fuss, but maybe I'm doing it wrong.

Eliminates cleaning all the residue off the shaft. Its easier(for me) to take a heat gun to the wrap and it peels right off

 

[5MilesBack]

What Billy said. I'm not a fan of wraps. I replace single vanes all the time. Cut them off, scrape the residue off the arrow with a utility blade, wipe and put on a new vane. It would irritate me to no end to have to replace all the vanes because one was bad.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'd prefer that, but like I said removing a vane was a pain in the arse! What's your secret? What fletching glue and what solvent to remove it?

Lately I have been using yellow top super glue that has a brush in the bottle.

To clean all the vanes off, I cut the vanes to the base, soak shaft in acetone for 10-15 minutes. You are fine to do that with Black Eagle, Gold Tip, and Victory shafts. I have left cut off ends of them in jars with acetone for months. First to soften up was a Victory vtac23, and it took 3 months before I could squeeze it by hand and it would deform.

To do single vane, I just use a sharp razor and trim down along shaft. Acetone on a q-tip for a few swipes usually cleans everything up.

 

[sndmn11]

When I had wraps years ago, I thought it was more work.

Damaged vane led to removing everything and starting over.

I replace single vane all the time without much fuss, but maybe I'm doing it wrong.

This is where I landed a while ago as well. Wraps are neat the first time and only the first time.

 

[Alpha Echo]

None of you guys feel like the benefit of wraps in terms of blood ID outweighs replacing 2 additional vanes? (legit question, not trying to stir the pot)

 

[mod-it]

Paint the arrows rather than doing a wrap if you like the look. Known as cresting.
Tape off arrow where you want the crest to end.
Clean the arrow with 91% alcohol or acetone.
Give it a light first coat. I just used Rustoleum primer + paint in a rattlecan.
Let dry a half hour or so, then apply a light second coat.
At this point I let them sit until the next day.
Apply a coat of rattlecan clear coat. Let it dry for another 24 hours.
Lightly wet sand with 3000 grit sandpaper.
Clean with 91% alcohol and fletch.



Having them crested also makes it much easier to see a damaged arrow on the nock end, wraps clear to the nock can hide cracks. This pic is one where I hit the nock with another arrow, the nock was clear gone on the damaged arrow and the crack is easily spotted.

 

[MattB]

When I had wraps years ago, I thought it was more work.

Damaged vane led to removing everything and starting over.

I replace single vane all the time without much fuss, but maybe I'm doing it wrong.

It depends. I use an EZ fletch and I think removing/replacing a wrap and refletching an arrow takes about 5 minutes start to finish, with most of that time being pulling out the jig/vanes/wrap/glue and putting it away afterwards. It definitely adds some expense with the new wrap and new vanes. If using a Bitz, I could see replacing a single vane being faster. I would just worry about vane spacing being right.

——————

A quick spin of the arrow over the stove with a low flame to warm the wrap and they peel off in 15-30 seconds.

I personally buy 8” wraps and cut them in half.

I shot for decades with no wraps before making the move. Not only do wraps save from ruining an arrow shaft removing damaged fletching (have done that ~3x), they make my arrows easier to find after the shot and can provide a bit more information on a hit than just the fletchings.

Not to mention you can eliminate cleaning the outside of the shaft for the assembly process.

 

[5MilesBack]

None of you guys feel like the benefit of wraps in terms of blood ID outweighs replacing 2 additional vanes?

Blood covers the shaft and vanes as well.

 

[JF_Idaho]

I get the fuzz on the felt with carbon (no wrap) all the same as with a wrap.