Arrow weight for a fast bow

McD18

FNG
Joined
Apr 13, 2019
Messages
86
Location
South Texas
Gentlemen,

Picked up a PSE Evolve 35 last summer and have been shooting consistently ever since. I'm preparing for my first bow season and am wondering if I should up my arrow weight.

When I bought the bow I just told the dude at the shop what my goals were and he set everything up and since then I've learned that I have a lot more to learn about archery. The shop's great, but I wanted y'all's opinions before I head back in an talk to him them about my idea.

So, current set up for arrows are VAP TKO micro diameter, 300 spine, 3 blazer fletchings with a 100 gr field tips totalling 444 gr on the scale and cut just a hair over 30" to the insert, just over 31" past the insert (from the nock groove). FOC is roughly 13.75%. Bow IBO is 340 fps set at 65# but I have a draw length of 31.5". Unknown what my arrow speed is since I don't have access to a chronograph. From what I can tell, the arrows are coming out fast as hell and I'm sure they'll cut through any animal in North America just fine. I'm pretty happy with the accuracy but of course have room to improve.

BUT, with that kinda oomph available I'm thinking why not up the arrow weight to the 540 range? Would that not improve penetration for any errant shots on bone, improve BH consistency and quiet the bow? This thing has so much energy available I'm thinking why not start chucking spears out of it.

What am I missing here? Can I just throw in some 95 gr inserts and call it a day? I think I'm good with 300 spine shafts plus the additional weight up front but please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks in advance,
McD18

PS - will primarily hunt white tail, occasionally hogs and elk is the future goal

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You might be a little weak with more weight up front. That said you will need to retune in any event. Why not build a couple heavier and try it.
 
OT2 archery program allows you to build arrows with different components at your draw weight and length and it will estimate your spine.

Hard to say if you'll be weak adding weight up front, I think you're probably somewhat on the stiff side at 65#, then again your arrows are long... Try a few different point weights before you change inserts if you want to stick with those arrows.

In my experience ultra micro diameter shafts don't fair too well when ran extremely heavy, If I were in your shoes I would build a few Easton Axis 300 spine and you can tune the weight with Easton's FACT weight system which allows you to add 10 or 20 grain stackable weights to the back of the insert, and at 10.7 GPI you'll pick up 36 grains just changing arrows.
 
As long as your broadheads are flying good, I wouldnt worry about buying all new arrows. Wait until you have lost or broken a bunch and then change when you need more. What you have now wont even slow down going through a whitetail.
 
OT2 archery program allows you to build arrows with different components at your draw weight and length and it will estimate your spine.

Hard to say if you'll be weak adding weight up front, I think you're probably somewhat on the stiff side at 65#, then again your arrows are long... Try a few different point weights before you change inserts if you want to stick with those arrows.

In my experience ultra micro diameter shafts don't fair too well when ran extremely heavy, If I were in your shoes I would build a few Easton Axis 300 spine and you can tune the weight with Easton's FACT weight system which allows you to add 10 or 20 grain stackable weights to the back of the insert, and at 10.7 GPI you'll pick up 36 grains just changing arrows.

Just to help out the OP, Gold Tip uses the FACT system (adding screw in weights to the insert). You can use the GT inserts/outserts for the Kinetic Kaos on the Easton Axis (and conversely the Easton HIT with the GT Kaos). Then use the FACT if desired. I've done it on one build just playing around.

Easton's only option for adding wt via the insert is using their brass HIT, adjustable at either 50 or 75 gr. If you want more weight options to play around with, Ethics Archery makes a system that you can use to add more weight also.

If I'm using an Axis arrow, I'd prefer using the brass inserts with the Axis. I feel it's better than the GT insert/outsert combo. Another option to add weight, the GT outsert fits on the Axis also. And Iron Will makes an outsert that fits really well. And is better quality than the GT outsert.

Just throwing out some options.
 
Oops yep my mistake, thank you 2Stamp. I was looking into the fact system for my RIP TKOs recently, for some reason I thought they were Easton’s.
 
Thanks for the replies fellas. I don't intend to buy new arrows at this point, but was considering modifying the current set up if it makes sense or building a few for fun since I like to tinker.

Im all set for deer with the current configuration and any elk size target is a few years off for me at this point so there's no rush to change it. But, I will buy new arrows one day and my curiosity has been piqued the more I learn about archery.

So, let's assume I have the bow I have and no arrows. Is there any reason not to use a ~540 gr arrow targeting 280 fps?

Thanks again,
McD18

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More preference than anything, I’ve been down this road and I find the easiest way to find YOUR perfect weight is go to one of the bow speed calculators online and try different weights until you get to a speed you’re comfortable with. A lot of guys like to be in the 275-285 FPS range. The heavier the arrow the more energy is transferred into it, making the bow quieter which you may find valuable as a whitetail hunter.

I found that for me the sweet spot was 448 @ 296. I tried heavier and my groups opened up, maybe it was a fluke? But the way I see it if I can’t put the arrow where it needs to go then it doesn’t matter how heavy it was.
 
Yeah accuracy will certainly trump 100 more grains on the front of the arrow. I won't know until I give it a whirl.

For what it's worth, archery calculator.com has me at ~312 fps so I'm wondering if slowing the bow down a bit via more weight would help. I'm always trying to be more accurate so I keep tweaking this and that so naturally I've come to reevaluate the arrow itself.

Again, not worried about whitetail but just thinking ahead to bigger and better game. Some day...



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You could try a 125 point and add a 20 grain lighted nock. That would give you a 45 grain weight addition pushing you up closer to 500 and should not adversely impact the dynamic spine of the shaft you are shooting. Cheap way to see if you will like moving that direction weight wise.
 
Looks like I'm a bit overspined looking at the Victory website (.326 according to their calculator), meaning I have some room to work with when putting more weight up front. I'll start out with some heavier field points and see where that takes me and I like the suggestion of the lighted nock to keep the dynamic spine the same. Archerycalculator says about 520 gr puts me in the 280ish fps range (65# DW) so I'll see if can do something easy to increase the weight.

Broadheads are hitting a bit left (overspined??) so maybe this endeavor will help tighten those up too.
 
**Update**

Went ahead and installed the VAP 95 gr inserts on a half dozen arrows bringing the weight up to 505 gr. Overall I'm very pleased with the results.

Broadheads tightened up with field points. I've since settled on the Strickland Helix - they fly like darts and I'm excited to see how they'll do in the field.

Arrow flight is MUCH quieter, especially with a BH. Grouping is the same at close range and better at long distance.

Once I break/lose some arrows I'll probably get some 250 spine and up the poundage on the bow and add more weight on the front of the arrow but for now I've got a winning set up that'll do well this season.

Good luck this weekend everyone!

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