Arrow spine

[skyler_2010]

Looks like the rest

 

[Brendan]

From the look of it, Contact on both sides probably means it isn't dropping until fletching hits it, which with a QAD usually means it's set up incorrectly.

I'd start with looking up their process for tensioning the cable correctly to make sure that it's dropping right. There's a specific way to do it, something like let the cable slip at full draw, tighten an extra 1/4", then tighten down.

 

[skyler_2010]

From the look of it, Contact on both sides probably means it isn't dropping until fletching hits it, which with a QAD usually means it's set up incorrectly.

I'd start with looking up their process for tensioning the cable correctly to make sure that it's dropping right. There's a specific way to do it, something like let the cable slip at full draw, tighten an extra 1/4", then tighten down.

Ok how can I do that if it's served into the cable?

 

[Brendan]

Ok how can I do that if it's served into the cable?

Other end, I think there's a tensioning screw on the thumb / cocking wheel.

 

[Jahvette20]

Ok how can I do that if it's served into the cable?

You should be able to just pull the cord through the cable. Do about 1/8” at a time. When your about an inch before full draw the 2 lines on your rest by the thumb lever should be lined up. I’m sure there are videos showing this process

 

[skyler_2010]

So I was able to grab the tail with my needlenose and pull it thru. Gonna try in the am and see what happens

 

[wildwilderness]

Looks like you should never go back to that shop! Won’t cut your arrows, don’t know how to set up a rest, I bet your are out of tune as well. I think you should look into local archery clubs. Usually they have a club house with a bow press, and a local expert who knows what they are doing.

 

[skyler_2010]

Don't know if you can see them but there is two marks on the arrow. Had my wife mark right at the rest and eyeballed 1 inch from the rest. Uncut is close enough...... . Put the tape on it and from carbon to carbon I would be 27.75 measured 1 inch in front of the rest.....

 

[skyler_2010]

Anyone ever hit the bottom of the frame for your paper and have an arrow go into orbit?

 

[Wapiti1]

Everyone has. Or has done something similar like skip one off the top of the target, punch the trigger while drawing, or a few other things.

Jeremy

 

[skyler_2010]

Bare shaft! Put a fletched arrow in and no matter how I turn it end up nock high

 

[cnelk]

I think your fork is bouncing off the shelf.
From the looks of that one pic, it doesnt look right.

Also, do you have the TL1 fork to put on?

 

[skyler_2010]

I think your fork is bouncing off the shelf.
From the looks of that one pic, it doesnt look right.

Also, do you have the TL1 fork to put on?

I don't have any other forks for it. I have the forks set just up a little from the riser because I was wondering if they were hitting too. Should the forks be buried on the riser when it's down?

 

[Brendan]

Have you made sure that contact is gone after re-adjusting the rest? If not - do that first. Tuning can't start until contact is verified gone.

 

[skyler_2010]

Have you made sure that contact is gone after re-adjusting the rest? If not - do that first. Tuning can't start until contact is verified gone.

I have verified contact is still there with fletchings no matter how I turn the nock

 

[Swampcruiser]

I’m not sure if you did this but, it sounded like you were heading there. Loosen the set screw on the QAD chord at the rest just enough so it will pull through while you draw (make sure it can move or the set screw will cut the chord) . Pull an inch or so through to shorten the chord. Draw your bow white your wife or someone next to the rest. After you are at full draw have them watch to verify the chord pulled through and is tight and rest is in the full upright position. Let down and pull just a 1/16th through to shorten further then tighten the set screw. Now redraw you’re bow with your wife or whoever watching the draw stops and the rest. It should come to full upright about an inch before the draw stops hit as mentioned above. If not re adjust.

 

[Swampcruiser]

The shop sounds pretty suspicious as well. Put an arrow in the rest and make sure with the forks up that the arrow is running level through the Berger hole or towards the upper half. You may need the TL1 one fork as Cnelk mentioned if they set it up level in the Berger and the forks are hitting the shelf on letdown. Ideally when they are in the down position they should be about an 1/8 inch or so above the shelf. Usually it Bowtechs that need the more shallow fork but I’m not sure on the older Hoyt’s . If you need one you could email QAD or I have a bunch laying around from old installs - either is free. QAD has good customer service

 

[Brendan]

I have verified contact is still there with fletchings no matter how I turn the nock

Turning the nock won't solve it if it's a rest issue. And - don't bother paper tuning or any other tuning until you verify there is no contact and this issue is fixed.

First step: Did you go through QAD's adjustment procedure and re-adjust your rest cable to make sure it's dropping correctly? Do you have someone with a slow-mo camera on their phone that could video to see if this is what's happening? If you don't have enough cable to work with, you might need a new rest cable, might need to remove the serving and slide it up to give more to work with, etc. Info here:

https://www.qadinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/UltrarestMXT_instructions_Web.pdf

Fork issue as mentioned above is another one. If the fork is lying on the shelf and vanes are hitting it as they pass over the shelf after it dropped - it could be you need a new fork, or need to move the rest (and nocking point) up - checking the arrow is horizontal running through the berger hole.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Not a really good bow tech thingy guy but I had a lot of fletching strikes on my Hoyt Spyder turbo with a QAD. My buddy had the same setup and his was a shooter. Mine was a turd. 3 trips back to the shop and I finally went with a limb driven rest, a limb driver. Haven’t had an issue since. Staying with limb driven rests going forward. They just seem to tune easier and are more reliable IMO.

 

[skyler_2010]

Yes I have verified timing is correct on the rest and still have issues with contact. No I don't have anyone with a slow motion camera at this time