Arrow selection

[tnfiddler]

I'm shooting a Quillian Canebrake recurve, 58#@28". My draw is 27 1/2". I have several old XX75 2117 and 2219 shafts that I would like to use before buying anything else. Do any of y'all shoot a similar set up? Any advice on what is working for others as far as shaft length, point weight, foc, etc... before I start buying a lot of stuff I don't need. I am thinking about doing some 3D shoots, but also hunting whitetails. I may need two different set-ups

 

[nevadabugle]

Are your shafts still full length?

 

[tnfiddler]

6 of them are.

 

[nevadabugle]

6 of them are.

Look up a video on bareshaft tuning a recurve. Then, hot melt an insert in one. Put a 125 or 150 grain field point on it. And shoot it as a bareshaft.

If it Flys weak, start slowly cutting it down until it straightens up. If it Flys stiff you can try adding a heavier point, but likely you would need a weaker spine arrow.

 

[nevadabugle]

As far as your origional question goes, my arrow set up will likely be way different than yours and comparison is tough.

With that said I would shoot for an arrow around 10 grains per pound, moderate FOC, fletched with feathers.

I shoot my 10GPP arrows both 3d and while hunting.

 

[tnfiddler]

Thanks Nevada, I have been doing some bareshaft tuning, and I have got the 2117 flying pretty good with a 175 grain point. I've been reading a lot about extreme foc, like adding a 100 grain insert plus broadhead . Do you have any experience with that


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[nevadabugle]

Thanks Nevada, I have been doing some bareshaft tuning, and I have got the 2117 flying pretty good with a 175 grain point. I've been reading a lot about extreme foc, like adding a 100 grain insert plus broadhead . Do you have any experience with that


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I am not a big fan of extreme FOC. If your bareshafts are flying good with a 175 grain point I would not change anything.

True arrow flight is more important than higher FOC. Period.

With a 175 grain point and a 15 grain insert, you have 200 grains total upfront. I shoot the same with a 150 grain point and 50 grains worth of insert and footing.

What I have noticed is if you go extreme FOC a side wind really starts effecting arrow flight. So I have settled for a fairly moderate amount with 200 grains up front and I have dropped down to a small feather fletched in a 60x120 pattern.

 

[tnfiddler]

A follow up: I adjusted the brace height closer to the recommended (6 1/4" to the riser) and the 2117s were not flying as well as previously. (Weak) I shot the 2219s with a 200 gr point and they flew straight. Arrows cut to 29.5 inch. Bare shaft. 17.4% foc and 650 grain without feathers

 

[Ohiohuntr]

Sounds like your right on track, i just started dabbling with aluminum arrows, I’ve always shot carbon and wood, your arrow is plenty for white tails, you may consider trying to get something lighter for 3-d just for a flatter trajectory if the cast of ur current set up bothers you, i like practicing all year with my hunting arrows personally

 

[tnfiddler]

Sounds like your right on track, i just started dabbling with aluminum arrows, I’ve always shot carbon and wood, your arrow is plenty for white tails, you may consider trying to get something lighter for 3-d just for a flatter trajectory if the cast of ur current set up bothers you, i like practicing all year with my hunting arrows personally

I actually just found some old 2413 superlites and they fly great also

 

[FLS]

I started off shooting aluminums out of my recurve. I killed a bunch of animals with them too. They took less tweaking to tune once you figured out what spine to shoot and were very consistent, but you sacrificed durability. Good luck. FWIW none of the modern spine charts are even close.

 

[ScottinPA]

Look for a spine calculator to get started (Stu's or 3Rivers website). That'll usually get you close then bareshaft.

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

The only thing I would add as a fellow aluminum arrow guy, is that those spines with that much tip weight will add up quick. Pretty soon you end up with a really heavy arrow which is good in all aspects; minus trajectory. I shoot full length 2018s with 175 up front and they fly great, but they’re not fast. I have to be conscious of 20-25 yard shots and change my hold somewhat.

I’m actually considering moving down in weight and spine to get a more straight-on flight at distance.

 

[Beendare]

good suggestions above.

The stu miller gets you close.

Starting long is always good…as are the point weight kits from 3 Rivers (90-300g)

The combination of those 2 things helps you to determine the correct spine when bareshaft testing. Shooting fletched arrows doesn’t tell you much. It also helps to video yourself shooting while bareshaft testing to make sure you executed the shot well, consistently AND you are anchoring the same at the same DL everytime.

Video and bareshaft has helped me with consistency. Sometimes with inconsistent bareshaft results one has to determine if its me ( my shooting form) or is it the spine of the shaft thats off.