Arrow Rest Timing

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I agree but then you would have to shoot the same every time to get the same result

why not work on form while setting the bow up to properly tune

a shot with good form it's just as easy to consistently shoot bad as it is good

I do not have perfect form just like you mentioned so my bow is set up to give me the most consistent shots possible but I am always working on my form

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Brendan

Brendan

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I agree but then you would have to shoot the same every time to get the same result

why not work on form while setting the bow up to properly tune

a shot with good form it's just as easy to consistently shoot bad as it is good

I do not have perfect form just like you mentioned so my bow is set up to give me the most consistent shots possible but I am always working on my form

Getting off topic here but I disagree. Tuning for forgiveness is about tuning the bow so you can allow small differences in form (i.e. when drawing on a big bull) with minimal differences in arrow flight / accuracy. I personally have proved this works with torque tuning, I'm thinking about rest timing the same way.

Sure, working on your form is the most important, but this is the same thing with spinning your arrows, same thing with using a broadhead with a forgiving design, same thing with indexing your arrows or checking spine....

Let's get back to the rest timing aspect - happy to continue this elsewhere if you want.
 
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Last off topic post- thx for the link to Dudleys articles. Great tool. I read the first one just now. So much goes into all of this wonderful world of archery.
Ok Back on topic- sorry for veering off course.
 

RosinBag

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Regarding the Hamskea, you should try and get it to drop about halfway through the draw cycle. That is right out of the guys who designed it mouths. They are the simplest rest to time and reading this thread, I think you are overthinking it. Time it like they advise and you wont have any problems.
 
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Brendan

Brendan

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Regarding the Hamskea, you should try and get it to drop about halfway through the draw cycle. That is right out of the guys who designed it mouths. They are the simplest rest to time and reading this thread, I think you are overthinking it. Time it like they advise and you wont have any problems.
Thats what I'll do for the time being.

Not saying they aren't easy to time, just always bugs me when everyone can tell you how or what to do, but nobody actually knows why or what the tradeoffs are.
 

boom

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Thats what I'll do for the time being.

Not saying they aren't easy to time, just always bugs me when everyone can tell you how or what to do, but nobody actually knows why or what the tradeoffs are.

how do you think the overdraw plays into this? (i'm trying to learn as well. but i just bought a QAD)

that changes the timing tune if you move the rest way back with the overdraw right?
 

RosinBag

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The overdraw won’t affect it. If yourQAD has a timing mark use that, if it doesn’t it should be fully upright three to four inches from full draw.
 

Trial153

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I don’t see any negative in a LIMB driven rest staying up longer into the shoot providing your not getting a clearance issues. The support is similar to shooting off a blade, albeit way more rigidity.
Can this make rest adjustment more responsive? Maybe however it adds other variables into the play as well so it isn’t as simple as a zero sum game. I have always timed limb driven rest to fall about 1/2 to 1/3 of the way through a shot, with cable driven rest falling way quicker for the reason I will state below.

The think you can run into trouble with this with cable actuated rests because of the location and add tension needed for longer up support of the launcher. This will show up in two places, you may see added draw weight with the position or more likely with binary limb stop cams see shorter valleys.
 
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