Arrow Length Calculation Help

ceng

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
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281
Hello, I was wondering what length I should cut arrows to to have the optimum spine. I just ordered a 80# Hoyt CS Turbo my draw length is 29.5". I am planning on using Victory VAP V1 300's with firenock outserts 33 gr. I will also be trying ulmer edge 100 gr. my rest is a Hamskea Versa rest so I assume I can cut them from around 28-28.5" or longer. According to the chart this should work, I was just wondering if there's some length that should work best? If anyone could run this through your software or has a suggestion I would certainly appreciate it.

Thank You,

Jake
 
First off I'm no authority. I have a 70# Spyder Turbo. Same draw length as you. I have a Smackdown Pro rest and could not get it to tune. Shafts are 28.5" carbon to carbon with HIT inserts and 100 grain heads. I was told it is the rest but kept getting a left tear (weak spine) until I turned it down two full cranks. I'm anxious to see your results. I am going to try the AAE Pro Drop. I have been eyeballing the Kinetic 200s and if I go that route it'll have HIT inserts and 150 grain heads.
 
Thanks for the info. It will be a while before I can provide real world test stuff. I was told 7-8 weeks wait time. That being said I'm a bit of a novice compared to most on here. I was just hoping to build a couple arrows ahead of time so the shop can do my set up and tune with what I hope to hunt with. Hopefully it will work.

Jake

Jake
 
Oh what spine arrows are you running? Just curious.
 
im in the same boat as you.. I have a 80# cs turbo on order too.. I only have 28 inch draw tho.. I am going with gold tip kinetic 300s.. cut 27.75 with firenock in/outserts 51grains or brass 50 grain hit inserts.. Then im going to shoot the heaviest tip i can get away with.. Either 100 or 125s.
 
You should be fine as long as you stay in the chart specs. If you are concerned you could always start long and group shoot them and tune them to see which works best for you. Personally I cut most all my target and hunting arrows for that matter an inch past the rest but you also have to make sure you have plenty of clearance for broadheads. I don't paper tune.i will bare shaft tune for my outdoor setup though. Problem with paper tuning is if your form has the slightest flaw it will magnify and most folks will end up doing more harm then good..
 
On a hunting set up I wont cut my arrows where they will come inside the shelf. I don't want any issues with broadhead clearance. In the heat of the moment I don't want to torque my bow and catch the broadhead on the riser. Never had any tuning issues doing this.
 
Thanks for the advice. I just wasn't sure if 28.5" or 29.5" would theoretically tune better? I guess it may not matter that much and the practical side like extending beyond the riser may significantly outweigh something like that.
 
Thanks rick. Is there a length that they would work?
 
Ceng I'm not a master bow tech. I really cant offer up much in tuning advice. I just simply ran your setup through the archery program I use and its saying the 300 spine shafts are pretty weak. I know OR archer and others have and can tune bows to arrows that would on paper appear to be weak.

If you already have the .300 spine arrows you can see if they shoot good for you. If you don't already have arrows I would order the .250 spines. Cool thing about VAP's is even in a .250 spine arrow they are still only 9.7 GPI.
 
I just realized I could download a trial. On OT2 it said that 300 spines were .025 weak and 250 spines were .025 too stiff at 29". Now what?
 
Thanks for looking that up Rick, sorry I didn't realize I could download them to try them out.
 
With broad heads it tend to cut my arrows a little longer than shorter. Just to make sure I can't hit a finger when drawing back
 
Figure out what arrow weight you want and go from there I highly doubt you will have an issue with your spine as long as you tune it properly. You could also try a different outsert as well. Cut em to 29 shoot and tune em, if you don't like the tune take a half inch off the nock end and do it again.

If you cut your hand with a broadhead you need to change your grip. Nothing should be above the shelf.
 
One thing to keep in mind is it's easy to be under spined but nearly impossible to be over spined if shooting a release and drop away. When it doubt always go to the next spine up.
 
Thanks. I had already ordered 300's based on the chart but will be exchanging them for 250's. I have to send my firenock outserts back too. I guess it makes sense to start as close to ideal setup as possible seeing as my bow is supposed take 7-8 weeks to get here.
 
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