Arrow Building Guide

[BKhunter]

Hey All,

I am learning how to build my own arrows, and was researching spine testing and don't really know much about it and can't find a true in depth guide on all things arrow building. When researching arrow builds I cam across a post on another site and wanted to use his points as a rough starting point to hopeful get an in depth description of each step and add to his list.

1. Visually check each arrow (I had one that had a minor crack on the nock end that was new in the box)
2. Spin test the arrows to see which end to cut that has more wobble or cut from both ends
3. Cut the arrows to length
4. Square both ends (yes the nock end also)
5. spine test the cut arrow to see where the weak side and the stiff side is, then marked the stiff side (Does the nock or insert go into the stiff side?)
6. Glue in insert (I totally believe in hot melt glue on the insert, it lets me adjust the broadhead later)
7. Shoot all arrows bare shaft for group tuning and adjust nock if needed to bring all arrows within the 10 ring at 20 yards (remark any arrows after nock tuning if they were off)
• Check for natural twist of arrow to determine the natural rotation of the arrow in order to put fletch your vanes in the correct direction.
8. Wrap and fletch all arrows
9. Let set for at least 24 hours and shoot


Hope you all can help me out here. I was also curios as I heard on a pod cast you should cut your arrows after a certain step to get a better tune. Not sure if that is accurate or not as I am totally green in arrow building. TIA for any help and feedback.

BK

 

[sneaky]

5. The stiff side is the seam that runs the length of the shaft where it's glued together usually. A straight arrow is a straight arrow, technically you can put nock or insert in either end, doesn't matter. If you're OCD you probably won't be able to handle shooting arrows you think are "backwards" lol.

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[sneaky]

6. Several manufacturers don't allow hot melt for inserts, double check before using. You can get glued in inserts out if needed anyways. Black Eagle I know says don't use hot melt.

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[BKhunter]

Thanks for the feed back. I hear Aron Snyder says he cuts his arrows at a later point in the build process. Not sure how this works. Can anyone explain?

 

[sneaky]

Thanks for the feed back. I hear Aron Snyder says he cuts his arrows at a later point in the build process. Not sure how this works. Can anyone explain?

Unfletched shafts, tuning for a recurve. It's standard practice on the trad side. Cut it down an eighth or quarter of an inch at a time and get bare shafts flying right, need less fletching to steer after that. You can do the same with a compound, just cut from the nock end.

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[BKhunter]

Unfletched shafts, tuning for a recurve. It's standard practice on the trad side. Cut it down an eighth or quarter of an inch at a time and get bare shafts flying right, need less fletching to steer after that. You can do the same with a compound, just cut from the nock end.

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Thanks for the feedback! So if I had a 27 inch draw would I cut the arrow to 28 1/2 or 29 and then start cutting an 1/8 of an inch off at a time from the nock end to so where the groups tighten up? Never done this before so not sure when you know you are in a good spot or where to start.

 

[sneaky]

Thanks for the feedback! So if I had a 27 inch draw would I cut the arrow to 28 1/2 or 29 and then start cutting an 1/8 of an inch off at a time from the nock end to so where the groups tighten up? Never done this before so not sure when you know you are in a good spot or where to start.

You can start with a full length shaft if you want lol. You tuning for a compound? You can cut them, shoot each shaft while rotating the nock to check flight, lots of variables you can sort out. You shooting with wraps or not?

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[BKhunter]

You can start with a full length shaft if you want lol. You tuning for a compound? You can cut them, shoot each shaft while rotating the nock to check flight, lots of variables you can sort out. You shooting with wraps or not?

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Shooting a compound. I don't use wraps but haven't scratched out the possibility. I think the only benefit for wraps IMO is you can see the type of hit better when analyzing blood and can locate an arrow better.

 

[Beendare]

Listen to sneaky....he is right on the money.

I do most of the stuff in your chart...[though I always use epoxy on the Axis hit inserts]

Spine wise...the Axis are pretty good but what I do is a bit of a shortcut. I don't index spine in assembly. I number them and shoot them for groups. If I get one arrow that isn't grouping, its usually just a turn of the nok to get it there. Rarely do I have to turn and refletch.

There are some that say spine consistency is more important than straightness...I would agree.

Spine consistency will vary with mnfr; Carbon tech and Easton are pretty good....GT is the worst I've seen.

Where you really see a difference in carefully assembled arrows vs slapped together is when you put a BH on there.

 

[Brendan]

Some comments

I am pretty anal about how I cut arrows. I have a spinner set up with a dial indicator, and test the runout on each end of the arrow. Cut 2" off the end with more runout. Re-test, repeat, until the arrow is final length. Why bother? Really because it only takes me an extra couple minutes for a dozen.

I do spine index, but another option is to just get them all to final length, then shoot bare shafts for groups before fletching. Any arrows that won't group - twist the nocks until they do. Once they all group together - mark the top of each arrow and fletch accordingly. (Tim Gillingham does it this way on every arrow - but you either need to be a consistent shot, or have a shooting machine). Spine indexing will get you to the same end result a little quicker, I don't know if I've ever had to twist a nock after indexing, but I also buy good (.001") arrows. If you want to go full retard on it - you can look up flat line oscillation testing, frequency analyzers, stiff vs. neutral plane - but you don't need to. Spine index (maybe) then shoot groups...

I personally have never tested arrows at different lengths. Maybe I should do more of it (Look up Dudley's "HIL" method), but I run mine through OT2 to check dynamic spine, make sure I'm in the green or stiff, and I always feel like the arrows are a lot more accurate than I am.

I always, always, always spin test my arrows and make sure broadheads/inserts are spinning perfectly true. Anyone that doesn't is a practice arrow with field points only.

Like Beendare - I run the Easton Axis right now, I use Brass HIT inserts and Easton Epoxy. I love Micro Diameter arrows, but haven't found components I like so I stick with the 5mm arrows. I am considering building some super heavy Grizzly Stik arrows for when I'm shooting close range in the timber. Really because I want the option to break a leg bone or spine without question on a whitetail from a tree stand.

 

[RosinBag]

I prefer to nock tune after fletching. When you put 25 grains on the back of the arrow in fletching you are changing the dynamic spine. I shoot four fletch so I can turn the nocks yo four different locations, one of the four will always tune.

 

[5MilesBack]

I prefer to nock tune after fletching. When you put 25 grains on the back of the arrow in fletching you are changing the dynamic spine. I shoot four fletch so I can turn the nocks yo four different locations, one of the four will always tune.

Yep. And even with three you have three different options for nock tuning.

 

[BKhunter]

I prefer to nock tune after fletching. When you put 25 grains on the back of the arrow in fletching you are changing the dynamic spine. I shoot four fletch so I can turn the nocks yo four different locations, one of the four will always tune.

So if I was shooting 3 fletch, I would have to refletch if I needed to after nock tuning?

 

[BKhunter]

When does one become aware of the perfect arrow length? Should you cut them an inch 1/2 longer then your draw or longer and then as you cut the 1/8 after each shot once grouping at 20 are you good? I don't want to under or over cut.

 

[Brendan]

When does one become aware of the perfect arrow length? Should you cut them an inch 1/2 longer then your draw or longer and then as you cut the 1/8 after each shot once grouping at 20 are you good? I don't want to under or over cut.

You need to test. Depends on spine, draw weight, draw length, tip weight, insert weight, fletching, nock weight, etc. A program like OT2 helps get you close.

I personally am a 29.25" draw, and my arrow measures 27" carbon to carbon.

 

[Brendan]

So if I was shooting 3 fletch, I would have to refletch if I needed to after nock tuning?

No if you use one of the other fletches in the same position.

No if you dont get fletching contact and you dont care about cock fletch up.

Yes otherwise.

 

[9Line]

I would add, that in my experience, if oyu are shooting a drop away, your arrow orientation really has no significance, therefore you can turn that nock to any position, regardless of whether or not it is aligned with a vane. Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but it may take some significant convincing.

 

[ncstewart]

I didn’t read all the post to start with. But in my opinion don’t over think it starting out. Get a fletching jig and spinner and get to it. Starting out have a shop cut you arrows or order them precut if tight on money. I can honestly say I build mine cause I like it and I like a custom looking arrows. I do the best I can on the build but i don’t shoot well enough to tell the difference in mine or ones the shop builds.
Gold tip has some good videos on YouTube with Tim. Also John Dudley has some good videos with nock on also on YouTube.
This years look

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[ncstewart]

And yes I only use wraps for a cresting look and not to fletch on.


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[Brendan]

I would add, that in my experience, if oyu are shooting a drop away, your arrow orientation really has no significance, therefore you can turn that nock to any position, regardless of whether or not it is aligned with a vane. Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but it may take some significant convincing.

I have gotten contact with cables depending on bow, tune, cable guard orientation.