New arrow ideas

[Silverback_]

I’ve been shooting my arrow setup since day 1 of getting my bow. So they’ve been knicked, fletchings damaged, stacked, etc. looking to build new arrows and shoot before start of season. Local shop does “custom builds” on arrows. Just looking at ideas. Of your guys’ builds and what arrows look like.


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[Bump79]

 

[Bump79]

 

[Bamf_Pa]

That’s a rabbit hole question with 100’s of variants with in multiple sizes, spines, fletching, wraps FOC and 20 other things that can come up. It’s all personal preference and set-up with intended game and hunting area not to mention max distance you're wanting to shoot. I go deep into the muck but here’s what I know I like for my style and set up. I bowhunt elk in Idaho in some timber patches and old burns with big meadows in between. I shoot 70-75 lb bows with a 30.5 inch draw length I carry expandable heads for longer shots and fixed for thicker brush close quarter shots. I take a .165 300 spine arrows cut them as close as I can safely get to the launcher blade. I use mostly aae max hunters and I go back in forth with wraps or lighted nocks this year wraps, the lighted nocks with small diameter just don’t hold up for a ton of work especially for me when I get over 500 grains. I’m running VAP v1’s again this year not tko and 200-220 grains up front TAW is like 520-540. I get plenty of speed with my original specs and it makes for a hard hitting reasonable to tune arrow with a good fixed head. I’ve gone down as low as 440 and is high as 650 on arrow weight and killed elk. I like low-mid 500 grain arrows it’s a good compromise. I also prefer the .165.166 4mm arrow for windy days I don’t think it aids penetration enough to matter but in 7 plus mile an hour wind past 50 yards it’s a slight advantage over 6.5 and very slight over 5mm but I’ll take any advantage I can muster. I’m also still playing with glue in broadheads I like the lack of outsert and the long glue in portion makes a strong connection and I still believe it makes it easier to shoot what might be a slightly weak arrow. Like I said rabbit hole and none of it probably matters but I love to tinker in the off season, hunting is my only hobby.

 

[g_reems]

Fort for my 2 cents on arrow building theory:
Arrow weight isn't as important as people think. As long as you've got a quality arrow at 10-15% foc somewhere between 400-500 gr, on a well tuned bow, you'll kill what you're shooting at with propper placement.

I run victory vap ss 300 spine, 50 gr outsert, 4 fletch r helical aae max stealth for a total arrow weight of 460 GR and 12% foc.

When I got these shafts I ran a little test on fletches and fletch configuration to find what I wanted. Used DCA, TAC, and AAE MS fletched in 4 right helical, 4 left off set, 3 right helical, and 3 left offset. Below are some of the set ups I tested. Landed on the above, liked the flight in wind and seemed quiet.

 

[180ls1]

I would just freshen them up. I don't think the expensive custom ones are worth it.

 

[Luked]

I never do the big fancy custom stuff.
I pick a fletching and color and thats all I use.
I dont do wraps or any of that.

 

[Sbird2019]

Unless you plan on changing vanes often for some reason, or even if you are, wraps aren’t really necessary. If you’re not just trying to get a few extra grains to reach some magical TAW, wraps are mostly cosmetic. As long as you have good adhesion and shoot a size / height vane commensurate with your broadhead and have a tuned bow, most vanes are often six of one, half a dozen of another.
Only thing I’d say is a must is having light colored vanes (think white, pink, flo yellow). Much easier to find if you miss or get a pass through and then, especially with white vanes, much easier to determine what kind of blood you have on your arrow.

If you’re just going for style points though, it’s not exactly original, but shield cut white vanes like TACs or X vanes look really sharp on a white honeycomb wrap like this