Arrow Build Help -> First Post

Margotron

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70#, 31” draw

New arrow build. Which row would you pick? Colorado elk hunter. I’ve searched and realized that, assuming they all tune, it’s kind of a pick your poison situation because they are all killers at 85 kinetic energy. I don’t shoot past 50.

Historically I’ve shot arrers in the 475 range. Stepping up.

IMG_1332.jpg
 

Greenmachine_1

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Top 2. I would pick a single head and use different inserts to adjust weight.

You are right. Any arrow would be acceptable assuming they tune.

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Margotron

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With you on the single insert. Thanks for the feedback. You dgaf foc ?
 

DHerman1

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The top two as well. I like to keep my speed around 270, kills everything and helps broadhead tuning. Those are plenty heavy.
 
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Greenmachine_1

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If I was going to pick an "ideal" FOC, it'd be around 15%+/-5%. Assuming it actually tuned.

Anything more is going to be difficult with current technology. The options exist, but aren't cost effective or practical for 99.9% of applications (examples where heavy high FOC arrows are valuable: dangerous game out of Africa, hunting at less than 25 yards, or apparently hurting hogs on a ranch in Texas over bait)

If you have less than ideal conditions, try for ~280+/-20 fps arrows that are of good quality. After that, it's more about preference and tuning than to the physics...

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Is all that you did put different heads on to shoot thru a chrono?

Like is this the shaft you are using with different weight heads or do you have different shafts? Since I'm seeing a shaft weight that increases exactly the same as the head weight, I'm assuming they are all same shaft.


They are all lethal, I don't know why you are going to give up speed for around the same energy.
 

5MilesBack

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I shoot 70-75lbs at 32.5"+ draw and historically have shot elk with arrows from 480gr to 532gr, all with 125's and normal weight inserts. This year my arrows will be right at 500gr. As long as you tune your bow to whatever you pick, any of those should work fine, but I've always liked my speed to be right around 285fps. That way I don't generally need to adjust my pins if or when I change up my arrows. :)
 
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I’d pick one of the top two b/c of those speeds may be mor forgiving for yardage errors. I’d then slightly lean towards #2 with a bit more FOC.


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Margotron

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Is all that you did put different heads on to shoot thru a chrono?

Like is this the shaft you are using with different weight heads or do you have different shafts? Since I'm seeing a shaft weight that increases exactly the same as the head weight, I'm assuming they are all same shaft.


They are all lethal, I don't know why you are going to give up speed for around the same energy.

Nailed it. Same shaft. Different combo of inserts and field points (ie 25gr insert and 100 field point up through 75gr insert and 125gr point). These are through a chrono, not sure I mentioned that. They spine a little better with the heavier weight but all are within range.

To answer your question, I’ve second guessing my instincts (speed) by the shooting-hogs-over-bait megaphone that is currently going around.
 

1sickLT1

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I'd personally pick the 150 grain head option if I was forced to pick one.
None of them quite lineup with what I try to achieve in my arrow setups though.
 
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Margotron

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I'd personally pick the 150 grain head option if I was forced to pick one.
None of them quite lineup with what I try to achieve in my arrow setups though.

How do you mean? Im guessing you’d look for a lighter arrow to keep FPS and FOC?
 

1sickLT1

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How do you mean? Im guessing you’d look for a lighter arrow to keep FPS and FOC?
Thats exactly what I would do. Lighter arrow paired with a midweight outsert and a 100-125 grain head. I personally don't want to shoot anything over 500 grains, and no less than 13% FOC.
 
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Nailed it. Same shaft. Different combo of inserts and field points (ie 25gr insert and 100 field point up through 75gr insert and 125gr point). These are through a chrono, not sure I mentioned that. They spine a little better with the heavier weight but all are within range.

To answer your question, I’ve second guessing my instincts (speed) by the shooting-hogs-over-bait megaphone that is currently going around.


I find it a little hard to believe you can adjust the tip weight and they all spine out, at least with broadheads.

I'd guess that shooting with field tips you are going to find the heavier tip weight shoots better, as it breaks the spine down more and will be more forgiving than a stiff shaft. Once you put broadheads on that weaker shaft likely won't tune as well. In my experience.


I don't think you are going to see much difference coming from a 475 arrow except for how fast they will start to tank at range. For western hunting I like to have speed where it's reasonable. You need to be able to shoot an elk within 50 yards without ranging it. Also if you get drawn back and the animal moved 10-15 yards you still want to be comfortable taking the shot. For me, I'm going to shoot a minimum of 270 fps, likely 10 more than that.


Play around with the different arrow well guys you have now to decide if you even like the heavy shafts. If they end up tuning great, if not you will have an idea of if you like that weight or not before buying a bunch of heavier spined arrows.
 
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70#, 31” draw

New arrow build. Which row would you pick? Colorado elk hunter. I’ve searched and realized that, assuming they all tune, it’s kind of a pick your poison situation because they are all killers at 85 kinetic energy. I don’t shoot past 50.

Historically I’ve shot arrers in the 475 range. Stepping up.

View attachment 307915
#2 my man.
 

npro04

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All of them are good picks. Assuming they all tune the same I’d go with either the 491 or the 516 but that’s just me wanting to be as close to 280fps as I can be with whatever weight that puts me at. Ideally over 450 which all of yours were.
 
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