Are expensive picatinny rails worth it?

[PaulB84]

Am I good with an EGW or similar for a model 70, or should I spend 2-4x as much on a Spuhr, NF, Murphy etc?

Thanks.

 

[Wrench]

The accuracy of the part is important the material choice and temper is also important. The brand name doesn't change either of those...BUT, qc with the brands you mentioned are consistent compared to someone outsourcing to China....not that China can't produce a quality product, they just don't have to.

 

[eightyeight mag]

Get a rail with a recoil lug. I prefer area 419 or mountain tactical. Murphy precision is very nice but heavy unless you spring for the titanium version.
Oops my bad I just saw this was for a mod 70.
Get a tikka than get your rail

 

[BLJ]

I have multiple EGW rails with zero issues.

 

[Marbles]

I'm pretty sure I used an EGW on my Kimber, no problems with the rail.

If I remember correctly, EGW uses 7075 aluminum, which I prefer over 6000 series.

 

[BLJ]

EGW uses 7075 aluminum

Site says Heavy Duty and Hunter series are 7075.

Standards are 6061

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Site says Heavy Duty and Hunter series are 7075.

Standards are 6061

Do you think 7075 is worth the extra money? Does it really make a difference on a rail?

 

[Wrench]

What is the rifle and scope? There's not a huge difference in performance when all the tolerances are correct....but if you are doing something nasty.....

 

[BLJ]

Do you think 7075 is worth the extra money? Does it really make a difference on a rail?

My quote above was to clarify that not all of the EGW rails are 7075 according to the website.

To answer your question. I do not think it makes a difference on a rail.

I currently have (4) EGW rails in rifles right now and have had many others in the past.

I can’t say if the ones I have (or had) are the standard or heavy duty.
I can say that the ones I have now (as well as the ones in the past) were the cheapest EGW rails on Amazon. So I’m assuming the standard 6061 rails.

I have never had an issue with any of them.

I believe in theory the 7075 rials should be better. In what metric, I don’t know.
Is it necessary, I don’t think so. IMO.

 

[PaulB84]

Thanks all

I have considered having the 70 modified to accept recoil lugs. Seems like that would be a really simple thing, just a couple non threaded machined holes in the receiver.

I also have several of the cheapest EGW rails and have never had an issue with them. I also have a Murphy on a Tikka, so pretty much the whole spectrum.

I wish Hawkins would make the one piece ring bases for 70s but they don't. A major reason for going to a rail is I have tried several types of rings that didn't align correctly on the 70s. (Leupold Back country 1 piece base/ring for example) With the rings being different heights on that receiver, a rail seemed to eliminate one variable in terms of that, and also just be stronger overall.

I was even considering the DNZ gamereaper 1 piece mount.

I have several model 70s from 270 to 300 RUM. All will be run suppressed, and I don't see myself using a crazy heavy optic on any of them. I'm partial to the SWFA 3-15s which is about 23oz

I have a set of the Burris 2 piece super low profile steel picatinny rails on the way. I'll also get a traditional 1 piece rail from EGW or Warner and start experimenting

Thanks

 

[Outlaw99]

I have 4 or 5 mod 70’s all sporting EGW rails. They’ve been fine for me. In fact, have another coming this week

 

[wapitibob]

Do you think 7075 is worth the extra money? Does it really make a difference on a rail?

Yes, 7075 has better properties than 6061 (elongation for one), harder and stiffer for lack of a better explanation. It's obvious when machining parts from it vs 6061.
Check the rail for flatness, then skim bed and it should be as good as a steel rail.

 

[jaredg]

I used EGW on almost all of my rifles. No issues so far.

 

[doverpack12]

I think the more important aspect of any rail is keeping them flat ( assuming they were made and arrive flat). I put one screw at a time in to just snug and observe any gaps or deformations between the rail and receiver. From expensive to cheap (both rail and rifle combos) I have needed bedding. My standard is JB Weld Qwik but I have recently tried the Loctite 380 for well fitting rails or mounts that I just want some extra holding strength for.

 

[PaulB84]

This is my method as well. Thank you

 

[Formidilosus]

A major reason for going to a rail is I have tried several types of rings that didn't align correctly on the 70s. (Leupold Back country 1 piece base/ring for example) With the rings being different heights on that receiver, a rail seemed to eliminate one variable in terms of that, and also just be stronger overall.

That means that you have an issue with the action- it’s not uncommon on M70’s and older rifles at all.

I have a set of the Burris 2 piece super low profile steel picatinny rails on the way.

Things the way for M70’s. Degrease everything, Loctite 380 the rails to the receiver, thread lock the screws- and they are not coming loose unless you want them too.

 

[PaulB84]

I will check the receiver alignment against a couple one piece rails and see what's up. Also will use the Burris bases and see if they are aligned

I have several M70s, most from the New Haven plant and one or two from Carolina

Sometimes I wonder why if I'm wasting my time accurizing them. I love the action but there's no question a 700 footprint would solve a lot of problems.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I will check the receiver alignment against a couple one piece rails and see what's up. Also will use the Burris bases and see if they are aligned

I have several M70s, most from the New Haven plant and one or two from Carolina

Sometimes I wonder why if I'm wasting my time accurizing them. I love the action but there's no question a 700 footprint would solve a lot of problems.

Yeah but then you're stuck with the crap 700 style trigger

 

[PaulB84]

So how do I go about using a rail to level any issues with the action? Seems like using loctite or bedding compound would require a lot of skill and some really precise measuring equipment/levels to pull that off