Another tuning thread

[rearnakedchoke]

Seeking some input on tuning on a Bowtech Reign. The bow has been shooting great for years. Recently had the string replaced, with a different brand than usual. The bow shop paper shot it and only thing that was changed was the string.

Since I’ve had it back, it was shooting left and elevation was off considerably. I had to changed sight tapes and the gap shrank quite a bit. It seems to be shooting faster with the new strings.

Anyway, I corrected the elevation but it was also shooting hard left. From 20 out to 50. I’ve put 30 clicks in the micro adjust sight and it’s still pushing out to 50. Started paper tuning it and knock is left tear.

I’ve since taken it back to the shop and they used the machine again and it shot perfect. They don’t tune based off the shooter. So now I’m debating if I should start trying yoke tuning?

PS some of the shots were close to each other.

 

[Dave0317]

Did ATA and Brace height stay the same?

If so, I would re-center the rest, then go straight to yoke tuning. Get close with yoke tuning, fine tune with the rest.


Center your sight too, no reason to even think about sights until you have a decent bare shaft flight, in my opinion.

Watch all the YouTube videos you can on tuning. There is many ways to skin the cat, and some peoples methods will appeal to you more than others. Some people spend lots of time analyzing paper tears at a few feet, I like to see my bare shaft fly at 10-20 yards and get it on track. I feel like I get much more from that vs looking at paper tears whether fletched or not.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

You said only the string was changed, but I assume you mean string and cables. Pin gaps tightening after the string/cable change suggest that draw weight increased, likely because the new cables are slightly shorter than the old ones. More tension in the cables can produce more cam lean and induce horizontal nock travel. When things get weird, I find it best to reset to the generally recommended starting point of 13/16" centershot, arrow running level through middle of Berger hole, even cam timing, and even tiller.

I'm seeing 7 nock left and 3 nock right tears in your photo. Were you making adjustments in between these shots? There's no sense in attempting to tune until you're getting consistent tears. Number your arrows and keep track of how each one is tearing then try rotating nocks to get them all to produce a similar tear. Once they're all tearing the same, take a couple steps further back from the paper and make sure the tear remains consistent. If it does, make adjustments per the charts below. Also, don't drive yourself crazy pursuing a perfect "bullet hole"...get it close then move on to tuning at distance. Bareshaft tuning is a good (but not entirely necessary) next step, and broadhead tuning should be treated as the mandatory final test for a hunter.

 

[mod-it]

I see the same as MM, some left tears and a few right tears.
Usually, you'll see the same tear over and over, plus they'll all be about the same length of tear.
IME if there is no consistency, then either you are doing something different from shot to shot, the arrows are not the same and/or are not nock tuned, drop away rest that is dropping too soon (drops before the arrow has the velocity to "carry" itself), you could have nock fit issues, or you have fletching contact.
It will be hard to tune until you get the same consistent tears.

-Set rest back to 13/16" centershot.
-Check nock fit and make sure the dloop isn't pinching them at full draw.
-Spray athlete's foot powder all over vanes, let dry, and then shoot and see if there is contact. If there is contact, check drop away rest timing, and try rotating nock so that indicator vane is away from the cables rather than up. If using a limb driven and you have a stick-on holder on the shelf, that is for sure a culprit for possible contact.
-Check drop away timing for dropping too soon. It should come up fully in the very last 1" of draw.
-Nock tune arrows. They should all make the same tear. Find what tear the majority make. For the ones that don't match, turn the nock to the next vane and try them again.
-Make sure grip and face anchor are the same every single shot. Let shot go off smoothly, no punching.

Once you are getting the same consistent tears, then yoke tune.

 

[rearnakedchoke]

Good catch. I dialed to mention that I flipped the target at some point, so all shots are consistently left tear.

I’ve since shot a bare shaft through it and the tear is identical, minus the bands obviously. So at this point I think it has to be either cam lean or rest alignment.

 

[rearnakedchoke]

You said only the string was changed, but I assume you mean string and cables. Pin gaps tightening after the string/cable change suggest that draw weight increased, likely because the new cables are slightly shorter than the old ones. More tension in the cables can produce more cam lean and induce horizontal nock travel. When things get weird, I find it best to reset to the generally recommended starting point of 13/16" centershot, arrow running level through middle of Berger hole, even cam timing, and even tiller.

I'm seeing 7 nock left and 3 nock right tears in your photo. Were you making adjustments in between these shots? There's no sense in attempting to tune until you're getting consistent tears. Number your arrows and keep track of how each one is tearing then try rotating nocks to get them all to produce a similar tear. Once they're all tearing the same, take a couple steps further back from the paper and make sure the tear remains consistent. If it does, make adjustments per the charts below. Also, don't drive yourself crazy pursuing a perfect "bullet hole"...get it close then move on to tuning at distance. Bareshaft tuning is a good (but not entirely necessary) next step, and broadhead tuning should be treated as the mandatory final test for a hunter.
View attachment 757135
View attachment 757136

I think that makes the most sense. I don’t have a gauge currently but I will check the draw. No adjustments were made, I just flipped the fixture over to use more paper. Should have mentioned that.

 

[mod-it]

Ok, so consistent tears.
I would move rest to centershot and then yoke tune the bow. People are different, but I prefer to not have the rest much more than a 1/16" either way of center shot. Yoke tune to a bullethole, then tune fixed BH and field point at 20 yards and can make a small rest adjustment as needed.

 

[Ho5tile1]

Mighty Mouse hit the nail on the head


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[Ho5tile1]

Get your center shot back then yoke tune get it close though paper then go out and shoot broadheads if broadheads need more then a few clicks then I’d go use the yokes till you only need a couple clicks in your rest. Once the broadhead is hitting with your FP then adjust your sight. Paper is just a starting point. I’ve had perfect bullet holes in paper then go shoot a broadhead and still have to make adjustments so I just get it close through paper then go shoot a BH. Good luck


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[rearnakedchoke]

As far as I’m accurately able to measure. The arrow at the rest is the same from front to rear. It appears to track inline with the string.

 

[5MilesBack]

Whenever I get a bow tuned and completely set up, I mark and measure everything......nocking points, peep measurement, cam timing and orientation, centershot, BH, ATA, draw weight, draw length, etc, etc. Then when I change string sets I just make sure I set it back up to meet those measurements and marks and then start tuning again from there. In most cases it's already really really close, so just minor adjustments.

So for you at this point, I would set the bow back to stock specs/measurements, check and set the cam timing, re-time your rest, and then start tuning from there.

 

[rearnakedchoke]

As an update, I figured out why the bow was shooting faster. For some reason the bow shop tightened the limb bolts from where I had them set to 65lbs.

Out of frustration I bit the bullet and purchased by own press and draw board. After 2 turns in yoke tuning and bumping rest down slightly here are the results. I think that’s about as good as it’s going to had.

 

[mod-it]

That's looking good for sure.
Now you're ready to broadhead tune.