Another Arrow Build Thread

[Hschweers]

Reloading is a blast, so why not build my arrows? Got a Modsaw on the way, and already have a Bitz jig. Have never built an arrow, and honestly have never bought an arrow that I want, more so just what’s available.

Hoyt RX-3 Carbon, 30” DL, 60lbs.

Want to go with a 5mm shaft. Will use Easton brass HIT system (50 or 75gr depending on what shaft I settle on). Not planning on collars. Worst case back end weight would be 4 fletch Bohning Atlas (9gr/per). Likely something lighter than 36gr total, but that’s worst case.

Trying to decide between:
Easton 5.0 (7.5 GPI for 350, 8.4 for 300)
Easton Axis 5mm (9.5 GPI for 350, 10.7 for 300)
RIP TKO (8.7 350, 8.8 300)
Victory HLR (7.3 350, 8.1 300)
Day Six XD (9 350, 9.9 300)

1) I’d like TAW between 475 (280fps) and 535 (260fps)
2) looking at arrow weight and bow specs - 300 or 350 spine? Looks like at 60lbs everything says 350, but that changes at about 62. There’s a chance I’d go up as high as 65 come season, but might also stay at 60. Is it better to over or under spine?

The heaviest GPI shaft (axis 5mm 300 spine) at 29” with 75gr insert and 100gr head gives me 530gr @ 11.3 FOC. The lightest shaft (HLR 350 spine) at 29” with 75gr insert and 150gr head gives me 480 with 17.6 FOC.

What shaft/spine would y’all go with? Am I selecting anything that will be extremely hard to work with for a newbie?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I would go 300 spine at 65#/29” with the amount of front end weight you’re considering.

 

[butcherboy]

It’s better to be over spined. You could also use the standard weight hit and use a heavier broadhead. I like Easton arrows so I’m a little biased on that. Shooting 340 axis and 340
fmj. Love the fmj arrows the most and looking forward to trying the new lighter version. My arrows are cut to 27” with a 28” draw. 73# 50 grain hit and 100 grain broadhead. TAW is 482 with the fmj’s and 430 something with the axis.

 

[feanor]

I just set up with Rip TKOs after seeing a lot of love for them. I really like them so far. Shooting broadheads out to 70 today just to see how they group with field points. I was done after the first 4 shots. They flew perfect out of my bow.

 

[sndmn11]

300 rip tko

 

[Hschweers]

I just set up with Rip TKOs after seeing a lot of love for them. I really like them so far. Shooting broadheads out to 70 today just to see how they group with field points. I was done after the first 4 shots. They flew perfect out of my bow.

Rip TKO was my initial thought, and it appears the consensus is 300 spine. What TAW are you running with them?

 

[Idaboy]

Rip TKO 300. ..(I run hoyt RX3 ultra between 62-65, DL 31). Shot lots different arrows through the bow a few yrs back and RIPs tuned well, can run an insert if you need wt up front. Pass through on both bulls in recent yrs. TAW 480, (I am actually thinking of going slightly lighter to 450 this yr)

 

[feanor]

I’m 28.750 carbon to carbon in a 250 spine. 29 “ draw length and 70 lb draw. I believe taw was 457.
50 grain inserts with a ti collar and 100 grain broadhead.

 

[Bump79]

300 spine for sure. Might as well do an Axis or 5.0 with a stock HIT. Other 204 components are pretty subpar IMHO and I avoid half outs like the plague. Or honestly a Easton Sonic 6.0.

I built a sheet you can use to compare builds against each other that's pretty helpful for making determinations.

Arrow Builder — The Arrow Builder

www.thearrowbuilder.com

 

[Beendare]

I think there are a couple of key factors in arrow building;

Square the ends of the shafts on a jig and spin check your BH's

Clean the inside of the shafts with 90% alcohol before using Epoxy on the inserts

Slightly over spined is the way to go- underspined or close to it can create all kinds of problems.

Go with 9GPI or more, the added carbon makes for a more durable arrow

Weighted inserts are OK but FOC is way over emphasized as an arrow build criteria

 

[Hschweers]

300 spine for sure. Might as well do an Axis or 5.0 with a stock HIT. Other 204 components are pretty subpar IMHO and I avoid half outs like the plague. Or honestly a Easton Sonic 6.0.

I built a sheet you can use to compare builds against each other that's pretty helpful for making determinations.

Arrow Builder — The Arrow Builder

www.thearrowbuilder.com

Fantastic sheet, thanks for sharing!

 

[Hschweers]

I think there are a couple of key factors in arrow building;

Square the ends of the shafts on a jig and spin check your BH's

Clean the inside of the shafts with 90% alcohol before using Epoxy on the inserts

Slightly over spined is the way to go- underspined or close to it can create all kinds of problems.

Go with 9GPI or more, the added carbon makes for a more durable arrow

Weighted inserts are OK but FOC is way over emphasized as an arrow build criteria

I think I’m leaning RIP TKO 300 (8.8 GPI but seem to have very positive durability reviews), 50gr HIT, fletching configuration that I can get to shoot best, and can vary point weight from 100 (450gr TAW) to 150 (500gr TAW).

Planning to use bore brush to scar the inside, alcohol to clean, and Easton HIT epoxy to bond.

Sound like a winner?

 

[WSMHNTR]

I'd always rather be over spined than on the verge so I'd say 300 for sure. I was die hard hoyt and easton since I was a kid and just switched to a Mathews last year and also went to Victory arrows.

I've built everything from light weight speed arrows to heavy GPI and FOC. Right now I'm in the middle and love the RIP TKO. You can run it light and have an arrows around 420grains or bump your FOC up and be around 450-475.

I like to be around the 280fps mark now for flatter trajectory and minimizes error in hunting situations. My heaviest setup was 562gr FMJ with 75grain HIT and a collar and it was honestly overkill for deer and the speed loss wasn't worth the extra punch. If elk were on the table I might reconsider that but the difference in trajectory just a yard or two makes is huge with a setup that heavy.

I'd also encourage you not the get hung up on FOC if you have a build that checks off all other boxes. It seems the latest fad is to build high FOC arrows. I'm not saying to forget about it but something in the 10-12% range is more than sufficient for good broadhead flight.

 

[CasNed]

I think I’m leaning RIP TKO 300 (8.8 GPI but seem to have very positive durability reviews), 50gr HIT, fletching configuration that I can get to shoot best, and can vary point weight from 100 (450gr TAW) to 150 (500gr TAW).

Planning to use bore brush to scar the inside, alcohol to clean, and Easton HIT epoxy to bond.

Sound like a winner?

I’d use hot melt so you can change in the future if you want.

Why no collars?

 

[Hschweers]

I’d use hot melt so you can change in the future if you want.

Why no collars?

Seemed like an extra, unnecessary expense. And something else to screw up since I have zero experience with collars or building arrows. Do they complicate things at all in the building process?

I shoot bags in my backyard. I’ve only broken one arrow in my couple years of shooting from missing the bag and hitting a rock. Generally they bury into the dirt and no damage done. If I break an arrow 100% of the time I kill an animal (which is unlikely), I’ll take that trade. $20-$40 for a pile of meat is worth it imo.

Just truly wasn’t that worried about durability. Bags don’t break arrows, and I’ll trade an arrow for an animal any time.

On the hot melt end - I’ve considered it, and actually would rather due to the ability to change later, but it seems to get so many mixed reviews. What’s your preferred hot melt?

 

[WSMHNTR]

If you go the RIP TKO route or really any 5mm you can get glue in target points that match the weight of a HIT and collar for practice. Collars and bag targets aren't friendly from my experience. I also agree with the hot melt as CasNed suggested. I've used the blue bohning hot melt with great success. A local shop uses standard hot glue sticks with success. Arrow prep is key for good adhesion with either method.

 

[CasNed]

Yeah I prefer hot melt. Occasionally, depending on the outsert I’ve had them pull off but worth it in my opinion so I can tinker with setup down the road.

Collars, they’re easy, just hot melt those on and spin test. I like stump shooting, or grouse hunting so the collar adds some durability I think.

 

[2Stamp]

Seemed like an extra, unnecessary expense. And something else to screw up since I have zero experience with collars or building arrows. Do they complicate things at all in the building process?

I shoot bags in my backyard. I’ve only broken one arrow in my couple years of shooting from missing the bag and hitting a rock. Generally they bury into the dirt and no damage done. If I break an arrow 100% of the time I kill an animal (which is unlikely), I’ll take that trade. $20-$40 for a pile of meat is worth it imo.

Just truly wasn’t that worried about durability. Bags don’t break arrows, and I’ll trade an arrow for an animal any time.

On the hot melt end - I’ve considered it, and actually would rather due to the ability to change later, but it seems to get so many mixed reviews. What’s your preferred hot melt?

Collars and hot melt are easy. I use and like the Kimsha hot melt. I use it on my traditional and compound arrows. I have not had an insert or head pull out of an arrow.