Advice on my kill kit

jmez

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Jun 12, 2012
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Piedmont, SD
You don't need a saw to separate joints. You just need to cut the soft tissue attachments around the joint. The only thing I would use a saw on is the skull cap.

My kill kit:
Tag Bags
1qt ziplock bag
3 zip ties
15 foot 550 cord
Grohmann canadian belt knife

I use the backside of the hide to lay meat on.
 
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B.C.
You folks not bringing a saw...is that because the meat is coming off the bone anyway, so no need to separate joints?

Everything can be done with a knife. The only reason to bring a saw is if you need to cut the skull cap off. And even then a meat saw blade with a bit of tape on one end of the blade for a handle works great and weights less then an ounce.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Saw for skull cap or if you want to split the pelvis or ribcage for any reason (not needed, just an option).

I actually much prefer popping off the legs at the joints with a knife. When you get it down its faster (the rears I still have to fiddle with a bit but I'm getting better, fronts are fast) and also there isn't any rough edges in your game bag that a sawn off foreleg would have.
 
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Man I must really suck at that then. I have a lot of trouble popping those joints with a Havalon. I try and give up and grab the saw. Any tips?
 
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krossh

krossh

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I thought of putting one of the cheesy wire pull saws in my kill kit.. at .8 oz it doesn't add anything. But I don't think a saw is needed. Like I said, I haven't used mine in the last two years and it's just taking up space in my bag. The havalon does everything I need it to if I pack a few extra blades.
 
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I usually hunt alone and have found elk tend to die in some thick nasty stuff. I pack a Wyoming saw just to clear away any branches etc to have a little more room to work.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Man I must really suck at that then. I have a lot of trouble popping those joints with a Havalon. I try and give up and grab the saw. Any tips?

Watch some videos of it is my best advice for placement, seeing it beats trying to describe (if you can't dig any up let us know). The joint in the rear leg is lower down that you'd tend to think for instance.

But yeah run the blade around a full circle of where you think the joint is with moderate pressure to cut tendons but don't beat up your blade edge on the bone, you shouldn't have to force it. Twist and bend the joint should expose more of what's holding and nip that with your knife (again don't pry or hammer on your knife), once you've generally got it put it at a 90 and twist it or sometimes straight but bend it sideways works too and the joint will crack apart, then just cut any remaining tendons connecting things.
 
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You could ditch the electrical tape and attach the tag with zip ties or better yet the glow wire.
 
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Here is my kit.
IMG_4469_zpsba93936f.jpg


Super UL diy game bags, Havalon, collapsible spray bottle, citric acid powder, some Iron Twine, Bic lighter & 1 lint/wax wafer, assorted heel bandages, couple vicoden.

All fits into a quart ziploc and remains in my pack at all times.... even when I'm not hunting, because I always have some sort of tag in my pocket. ;)

Like others have said, the hide doubles as a ground sheet.
Hunt'nFish
 

William Hanson (live2hunt)

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Here is my kit.
IMG_4469_zpsba93936f.jpg


Super UL diy game bags, Havalon, collapsible spray bottle, citric acid powder, some Iron Twine, Bic lighter & 1 lint/wax wafer, assorted heel bandages, couple vicoden.

All fits into a quart ziploc and remains in my pack at all times.... even when I'm not hunting, because I always have some sort of tag in my pocket. ;)

Like others have said, the hide doubles as a ground sheet.
Hunt'nFish
What did you make you diy game bags out of?
 
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What did you make you diy game bags out of?
I used a very fine mesh ripstop nylon.
I know the prefered material is a cotton/polyester blend, but this stuff is super airy.

They are not expected to handle sharp bone (gutless only). Nor would I use them to hoist meat up in trees.

Basically their sole purpose is to protect the meat from flys & bees and allow meat to continue cooling between meat runs. Just something super light & compact to carry at all times that will just be enough to protect meat.

I have made other sets from cotton/poly blend bed sheets, but they are just a little too bulky for my particular preferance and needs.

My kit is small enough I can slip it into a large cargo pant pocket and just scout/hunt packless.
Anyway.... works for me.
Hunt'nFish
 

Bughalli

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Nov 16, 2012
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Bend, OR
Good discussion! My kit is very similar. I need to check out some of the wire options mentioned. I put one of those cheap wire saws you find at Big 5 in my kit as well. I haven't tried it yet, but heard it works fine for skull cap cuts. Weighs nothing and better than carrying the full skull out on a smaller bull...or a full saw. I also switched from a Havalon to Gerber's new replaceable blade knife. Same blades, just easier to swap them out. Changing that damn Havalon blade always made me nervous when my hands are bloody, tired as hell and in the backcountry. Funny to read someone else brings a leatherman just to change the blade. I understand the need, Ive thought about it, but hate adding the weight.

Sheep tarp is tempting because you can use it for many things. I currently have the space blanket. Someone else recommended getting one of those 3M window insulation kits. They give you super thin sheets of plastic that weigh nothing and are pretty durable. Only for use of setting your meat on something.
 

fngTony

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I've used the cheap wire saws and consider them a one time use but $15 will get you several.
This year I'm using the gerber vital pack saw. It felt heavy in the packaging but just the saw and sheath its about 4 ounces and I can put my extra blades in the sheath too.
Imo a saw isn't necessary but its handy for camp duties as well. You will make up the little weight in your first mile from drinking, eating, burning calories.


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deadwolf

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May 12, 2013
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Anchorage, AK
Hey everyone, I'm looking to try and lighten up my kill kit. It's not that it's overly heavy, but I do think there are some things I can cut to trim the fat so to speak. here's my list.

- Outdoor Research Zip sack
- Havalon piranta
- Extra blades
- marking tape (could leave the roll at home and only take 20 feet)
- electrical tape (could leave the roll at home and take a smaller roll)
- emergency heat blanket the cheap $2 version (dual purpose for emergency / lightweight tarp to lay meat on if needed)
- gerber vital saw (could leave at home since I will primarily be using the gutless methond)
- Knives of Alaska bear cub (thinking about leaving it at home since I feel like I only use the havalon)
- Game bags generic cheese cloth kind ( As soon as everywhere isn't sold out, I'm going to go with T.A.G. bags)
- 30 ft of 550 cord
- 2 contractor garbage bags.. not sure why

everything folds down small, and it's a pretty compact kit. I just think I could remove a few things, but it's just hard to let go of stuff you think you might need.

TAG bags are in stock on their website, Google Alaska Pristine Ventures.


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xziang

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Oct 8, 2014
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Nebraska
You don't need a saw to separate joints. You just need to cut the soft tissue attachments around the joint. The only thing I would use a saw on is the skull cap.

My kill kit:
Tag Bags
1qt ziplock bag
3 zip ties
15 foot 550 cord
Grohmann canadian belt knife

I use the backside of the hide to lay meat on.

I didn't see it in your original post but a Ziplock bag like what was posted above. A larger one to cut a piece of meat which includes the 'proof of sex' criteria and then put that proof in the ziplock bag. :)
 

Eric27

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Jan 3, 2016
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How many tag bags and with size for an elk?

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