A few suppressor questions

Lawnboi

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Scythe ti. Figured I'd go with the cheapest and lightest option to mount up on that 5/8 direct thread, while trying to maximize thread size on my barrel, thread adapter or not
As long as the gunsmith is someone who you trust and knows what he’s doing, a collar is a viable option.

On the 6.5 so is threading it 1/2” and direct threading to that.

I’d thread to hopefully have a common pattern, since swapping around hub mounts can be a pain in the ass.
 
OP
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As long as the gunsmith is someone who you trust and knows what he’s doing, a collar is a viable option.

On the 6.5 so is threading it 1/2” and direct threading to that.

I’d thread to hopefully have a common pattern, since swapping around hub mounts can be a pain in the ass.

Yes I'd be doing the 6.5 and the 30 the same thread on the muzzle, using an adapter if needed, so that I can just use the 5/8x24 threaded suppressor
 

Lawnboi

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Yes I'd be doing the 6.5 and the 30 the same thread on the muzzle, using an adapter if needed, so that I can just use the 5/8x24 threaded suppressor
That’s a sound plan. Just make sure to properly vet the gunsmith. There’s plenty of guys doing the same out there if you search around on here.
 
OP
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That’s a sound plan. Just make sure to properly vet the gunsmith. There’s plenty of guys doing the same out there if you search around on here.

Yup. I called a few that I thought would do the collar. LRI won't, UM won't. Kampfeld will, but his lead times are getting long. Shaen isn't taking more work right now.

I've got a local backup that will thread 9/16" for an adapter (won't do a collar) that I know will do solid work. So I've got a solid option, but I'm just trying to pursue the collar route first
 

fmyth

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I know of at least one suppressor that comes with a Bravo 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 direct thread mount. Put the 1/2 28 on the Tikka 6.5C and the 5/8 24 on your 30 cal and you can swap the can between rifles. I recently did this so I can use the same suppressor on a 6.5C Tikka and my trusty old .300WM.
 

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5811

WKR
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Also, after reading tbac thread chart... I can see why they recommend not using 1/2x28 on a 30cal. That leaves only about 0.070 or so barrel wall on each side. That's crazy thin!
https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/1-2x28-threaded-30-cal-rifles-suppressor-horror-stories.298053/

This is a thread worth reading on threading a 30 cal 1/2×28. To date, not a single verified issue running that combination. Lots of factory 30 cal barrels threaded the same.

I think it's a bit of corporate safe-speak combined with some salesmanship to sell adapters that has become lore. I might be wrong, but I have yet to see any evidence of that. Until then, I'll keep threading all my hunting barrels in 1/2×28 and using direct thread.
 

ID_Matt

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I don’t know if this was sarcasm or not, but broken down, my rifle with a muzzle brake, kicks less than when I have the suppressor installed.
Sorry, I read your comment wrong. I saw "bare muzzle" and must have quit reading and started typing. Please ignore!!
 

Braaap

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Below is an email to me from TBAC. Maybe this is helpful.

“Thank you for your email. In my experience, the T3x will likely require the installation of our Face Mount CB brake that was engineered for lightweight sporter profile barrels and indexes off of your muzzle rather than the barrel shoulder. If your barrel has an OD of at least .565" we can rethread it in 9/16x24 and install one of our Face Mount CB Brakes. We do recommend a minimum of 9/16" threads for any caliber over .224 in order to provide sufficient barrel wall material for a secure suppressor mounting interface. I have attached our thread specification diagram below for reference.”
 

Robobiss

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Sorry, I read your comment wrong. I saw "bare muzzle" and must have quit reading and started typing. Please ignore!!
It threw me for a loop for a second too

As someone who has absolutely no business speaking on the topic, we are in the same camp on this one.

Especially when you are adding (and usually roksetting) a 5/8 adapter or muzzle device onto the muzzle.

But again, I’m not a metallurgist.
 
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The biggest issue I've seen and heard with really short barrels and light suppressors is the additional risk of flame cutting the baffles in the suppressor. If you are running a silencer with lightweight alloy internals (vs. stainless), I'd be careful about how many rounds you are putting down it with a short barrel without letting it cool. In NZ some vendors specifically sell "hunting rifle" only suppressors with this idea that you want to save weight and won't beat the hell out of them with long strings of fire.

My brakes reduce recoil more than the suppressor, but it's within the ballpark overall of the suppressor. The most aggressive brakes (Terminators), reduce recoil significantly, but the angled vents towards the shooter produce what I consider dangerously high noise levels and can't be mitigated with hearing protection to safe levels. A suppressor is much nicer to shoot.
 

Taudisio

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Does anyone think it matters if the thread adapter is stainless or not?
Mine is not, one day out shooting in the rain (from a covered bench) and it had rust spots the next morning. Cleaned it and now it gets a fresh coating of barricade every once in a while. I would prefer it if I did not have to think about it.
 

thinhorn_AK

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Scythe ti. Figured I'd go with the cheapest and lightest option to mount up on that 5/8 direct thread, while trying to maximize thread size on my barrel, thread adapter or not
Then the to rules. I got one last week. I’ll probably do all my hunting with it this year.
 
OP
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Then the to rules. I got one last week. I’ll probably do all my hunting with it this year.

I think I read somewhere you also have an omega, right? How does the sound level compare to the omega with that anchor brake on the scythe?
 
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