70-80# bow guys: let's talk arrows

jackwagon

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Looking to try a new shaft I can get run up to about 500gr or more and get a high FOC (15% or more). So far, my research has kept pointing me towards GT Kinetics in a 200 spine. What's everyone else doing?
 
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jackwagon

jackwagon

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Need a little more info first, what bow? shooting at 80? draw length?

I have an Elite Synergy 80 pounder that I shoot pegged out. Not totally sure how accurate the scale I use is beyond 80 pounds, but I'd feel pretty confident it's around 85lbs. Shooting a 28" DL. Shot Deep6 FMJ 330s this last season that I ended up cutting down to 26", but I'm sure that if I want to go heavier and get the FOC I want, I'm going to need to stiffen that arrow up considerably. Thinking about experimenting with the new D6 FMJ 280 spine, but might be more hassle than they're worth.
 
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I shoot goldtip xt hunters in camo cut to 27.5". I use the 100 grain brass insert and four fletch them with a wrap. 125 grains up front in broadhead had them at 563 grains. Work well out of my Hoyt faktor turbo that is maxed out with 80lb limbs. Not sure how fast it is or what the actual draw weight is nor do I care much. Fast enough and quiet!
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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Getting to 500gr and a little more is easy. What you need to understand is that 80lbs at 28" is equivalent to the same bow at 70lbs and 30" draw. At 85lbs it would be about 70lbs and 31" draw. At those specs a .300 spine arrow would work, but if you wanted even more weight you could put in a brass insert and gain some weight. I shoot at 71lbs and 32 1/2" draw and shoot 300's out of my Old Glory at 500gr on the nose, and the Kinetic 200's out of my Freak at 532gr. Both arrows are 30".

I try to keep my arrows in the 285fps range. My 300's are on the nose.......285fps, my 200's are at 286fps.
 
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Kevin T

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Reviving this old thread...I’m shooting a rx3 80lbs 28” draw. Easton axis 300 27.5” with 50gr brass 100gr pt. Paper tunes fine at center shot but then broad heads hit well right of fp. I have to move rest a good amount to the right (and yoke tune) to get them to group but then get about 1” nock right paper tear. Also don’t like that I have to go out of center shot. Am I under spined?
 

Ucsdryder

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You’re under spined. I couldn’t get 260s to tune reliably. Went with 200s. 84lb at 28.5”
 

Marble

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Reviving this old thread...I’m shooting a rx3 80lbs 28” draw. Easton axis 300 27.5” with 50gr brass 100gr pt. Paper tunes fine at center shot but then broad heads hit well right of fp. I have to move rest a good amount to the right (and yoke tune) to get them to group but then get about 1” nock right paper tear. Also don’t like that I have to go out of center shot. Am I under spined?
Yes... besides a stiffer arrow you can also shorten it a bit.

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Kevin T

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Yes... besides a stiffer arrow you can also shorten it a bit.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
Yeah I like to keep the broadhead just in front of the riser. Just paranoid of slicing my hand somehow. Debating between Easton axis 260 or be rampage 250. I bought the online archers advantage $12/yr, and for some reason it shows the rampage arrows running stiffer than axis (I compared the 300 spines and it had the axis too weak but the rampage optimal). It has axis 260 as “marginal stiff” and rampage 250 as “too stiff.” I might get the rampage anyway and see what happens
 

TheViking

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Yeah I like to keep the broadhead just in front of the riser. Just paranoid of slicing my hand somehow. Debating between Easton axis 260 or be rampage 250. I bought the online archers advantage $12/yr, and for some reason it shows the rampage arrows running stiffer than axis (I compared the 300 spines and it had the axis too weak but the rampage optimal). It has axis 260 as “marginal stiff” and rampage 250 as “too stiff.” I might get the rampage anyway and see what happens

Make sure you use proper speed when using archers advantage. The program doesn’t calculate it properly. Fill in all your specs for your arrow, then update the bow information, then go to a arrow speed calculator and type in your info there. You’ll get a speed, then plug that number into AA in the bow section and then click on shaft selector.

I use this arrow speed calc and it’s usually really dang close.

I always put 25 grains on the string as my default.

 

Marble

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Yeah I like to keep the broadhead just in front of the riser. Just paranoid of slicing my hand somehow. Debating between Easton axis 260 or be rampage 250. I bought the online archers advantage $12/yr, and for some reason it shows the rampage arrows running stiffer than axis (I compared the 300 spines and it had the axis too weak but the rampage optimal). It has axis 260 as “marginal stiff” and rampage 250 as “too stiff.” I might get the rampage anyway and see what happens
I'm a fan of the axis...so that's my vote.

And I understand about the broadhead. I have had vanes hit my finger, but never anything up front. You could always get 3 arrows and see how they shoot.

At 260 spine and 28", 50 grains of brass and 100 grain tips, you won't hit that 15% FOC I dont think. Ididn't do the math...But, you will be over 500. Probably 525 give or take without doing the math. That's the arrow I shoot but in a 300...Haven't killed anything with that one yet unfortunately. The 340 at 510 grains was weak in the spine a bit for my bow, but Jesus it ran through an elk like butter and also the spine of a bear and the off side shoulder blade. I dont think you'll have pentatration issues unless you hit something super solid.

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Kevin T

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Make sure you use proper speed when using archers advantage. The program doesn’t calculate it properly. Fill in all your specs for your arrow, then update the bow information, then go to a arrow speed calculator and type in your info there. You’ll get a speed, then plug that number into AA in the bow section and then click on shaft selector.

I use this arrow speed calc and it’s usually really dang close.

I always put 25 grains on the string as my default.

Thanks! That makes sense to me but now it says the axis 300 is optimal (although it’s on the weak side edge of the green)...I have gone deep down the rabbit hole 😂. I don’t think I’ll be satisfied until I try a stiffer arrow so I’ll prob experiment with one of the 250 or 260 spines. I’ve read stiffer spine arrows are better with broadheads too
 

TheViking

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Thanks! That makes sense to me but now it says the axis 300 is optimal (although it’s on the weak side edge of the green)...I have gone deep down the rabbit hole . I don’t think I’ll be satisfied until I try a stiffer arrow so I’ll prob experiment with one of the 250 or 260 spines. I’ve read stiffer spine arrows are better with broadheads too

Definitely lean to the stiff side!
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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Also don’t like that I have to go out of center shot. Am I under spined?
Then don't go out of centershot. Set it and then yoke tune. If it still won't tune and you think you're underspined, turn the bow down and see what it does. If it still won't tune, then that's not spine.
 

Kevin T

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Then don't go out of centershot. Set it and then yoke tune. If it still won't tune and you think you're underspined, turn the bow down and see what it does. If it still won't tune, then that's not spine.
Went out this morning turned bow down 2 turns (brought it to about 72.5 lbs). Broadheads shooting with fp’s at 25 yds. Looks like it’s def a spine issue.
 

CB4

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I just ordered BE Rampages in 250 spine after talking to Randy. Arrows will be cut down to 27" roughly(depends on tune) and have 200 grains up front. Shooting V3 31 at 75lbs and 28.5" draw.
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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Went out this morning turned bow down 2 turns (brought it to about 72.5 lbs). Broadheads shooting with fp’s at 25 yds. Looks like it’s def a spine issue.
Did you reset the centershot to begin with, and then yoke tune for your BH's before turning it down?

Also, I'd shoot your BH's at further than 25 for BH tuning. I prefer 60, but 40 is better than 25. I can get 300's to tune with BH's at 80lbs even with my 33" draw, but I prefer the 250's and 200's.
 

Kevin T

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Did you reset the centershot to begin with, and then yoke tune for your BH's before turning it down?

Also, I'd shoot your BH's at further than 25 for BH tuning. I prefer 60, but 40 is better than 25. I can get 300's to tune with BH's at 80lbs even with my 33" draw, but I prefer the 250's and 200's.
Yeah so I reset center shot and paper tuned yesterday (I have to yoke tune to where arrow is crossing string from left to right at nock to get bullet hole). Then turned down and shot broadheads with fp’s and they hit together.
I already know that with bullet hole paper tune at 80 lbs my broadheads hit right of fp’s unless I move rest into the riser to where if I paper tune again I get 1” nock right tear.
also I wish I could shoot long range with broadheads but I only have 25 yds max at my house and can’t shoot broadheads at the range
 
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