6mm arc build Howa Mini or buy complete

[KyleR1985]

The biggest issues with the mini are

junk factory bottom plastic causing failures with feed eject and extract.

And manipulating the bolt quickly leads to the trigger pull getting heavy/single stage unless you recock.

 

[IDVortex]

regarding bottom medals, are Jeffs the only one worth spending the money on? And, how often do they come in stock? lol...

 

[waspocrew]

And manipulating the bolt quickly leads to the trigger pull getting heavy/single stage unless you recock.

I might switch my trigger out for a Jard due to this - definitely annoying.

 

[waspocrew]

regarding bottom medals, are Jeffs the only one worth spending the money on? And, how often do they come in stock? lol...

The JO and Oregunsmithing are the only two I'm aware of. I went with the JO. If you email them and ask to be on the waitlist, they will **supposedly** let you know when they come in stock.

I never got the notification from them. Someone posted here or on a FB Howa Mini page and I was able to snag one a few months ago.

 

[IDVortex]

The JO and Oregunsmithing are the only two I'm aware of. I went with the JO. If you email them and ask to be on the waitlist, they will **supposedly** let you know when they come in stock.

I never got the notification from them. Someone posted here or on a FB Howa Mini page and I was able to snag one a few months ago.

I've thought of the OS one, but read not a lot of folks like it.

 

[Gynaroo]

The JO and Oregunsmithing are the only two I'm aware of. I went with the JO. If you email them and ask to be on the waitlist, they will **supposedly** let you know when they come in stock.

I never got the notification from them. Someone posted here or on a FB Howa Mini page and I was able to snag one a few months ago.

Brownells has a bottom metal for the Howa mini. It’s what I used. I like it. Way better than the factory plastic.

I’d love to find a different magazine though.

 

[270quest]

Started working on load development. With the JO bottom metal and my chamber - the 106 TAPs hit lands at 2.395”. Going to start my first loads at 2.375 and go from there. That bullet is just at the shoulder junction. Should have a bit more powder capacity as well. You can see the difference as compared to a factory 108 match load.

 

[KY_coop]

I got around to prepping all the brass I've shot so far and starting up some loads. Using 105bthp I ran into coal limitations much sooner than expected. Which, started to limit the amount of powder I could put in. Oh well. Ended up with a 2.240 oal which had me .005 ish off the lands. 26.8 gr of varget got me around 2550 and put 10 rds into 1.5" with the first 9 shots at .9". Pretty happy with that. May try some staball match to fit some more powder or maybe some leverevolution. But for now I'll bang steel with this load.

 

[Macchina]

I just put this together for $800. Mini barreled action. Stockys VG2. DNZ mounts. The scope is an old Zeiss I had laying around that weighs 16 ounces to give you an idea of the bare rifle weight.

I really don’t think you can do better than that combo.
View attachment 731923

A note to anyone using DNZ mounts: mount them with the "ring" the opposite as shown above (rings on the outsides). The farther apart the rings are the more torque it takes to move anything...

 

[Marshfly]

A note to anyone using DNZ mounts: mount them with the "ring" the opposite as shown above (rings on the outsides). The farther apart the rings are the more torque it takes to move anything...

That doesn't work for all people and all rifle/scope combos due to eye relief. That's why they are reversible. If you think a 6ARC is going to move a 16oz scope in DNZ mounts used any which way...it won't. And if your rings won't hold any which way...they should go in the trash.

 

[JCMCUBIC]

If mounted correctly, in regard to avoiding movement, the DNZ's will be as reliable as any rings with the same ring width/material/fasteners.

The value of reversing the ring(s) is for wider ring spacing which results in less un-sprung weight past the ring. It's just more supportive of the scope and shortens the lever arm of any contact that occurs to the bell or eye piece and reduces chances of the scope being bent or flexed.

The front ring of DNZ's is easily reversed. The rear ring will require either filing of the underside of the ring or filing of one edge of the bolt shroud (this is quick and easy). Without filing the bolt shroud will contact the underside of the rear ring preventing opening/closing the bolt.

I reverse the front ring on the mini's I use DNZ's with. I have only been able to reverse the front and rear with one scope, SWFA 3-9, because the scopes I'm using on the mini usually don't have a long enough tube.