6 PRC reloading

[Muledeerfanatic]

I tried 565 and got 3160 fps with 58 gr and shot 1/4 moa
115 dtac

 

[Titanmoose]

I tried 565 and got 3160 fps with 58 gr and shot 1/4 moa
115 dtac

Where is the ogive on the dtacs vs say 108eldms? Ie what is your base to ogive measurement vs the distance off the lands ?

 

[Muledeerfanatic]

Where is the ogive on the dtacs vs say 108eldms? Ie what is your base to ogive measurement vs the distance off the lands ?

I am at 2.327" bto and that is about 5 thou off

 

[brockel]

Well I decided to get one of the PBB tikka 80% barrels they are doing now in 6prc 7.5” twist 20”. Had them open the throat slightly to 0.180”. Should have it in two weeks or so and will start playing with the 107tmk waiting on the 116 tmk to come instock

 

[brockel]

With Hornady dies this is a non issue. Single step neck down with a .270” bushing on Lapua brass

Having never owned a hornady bushing die what does hornady do different than say Redding on their bushing dies? I tried going a single step down to .29 with Redding dies and I was crushing cases

 

[Schmo]

Having never owned a hornady bushing die what does hornady do different than say Redding on their bushing dies? I tried going a single step down to .29 with Redding dies and I was crushing cases

I’m not sure what they do differently, but make sure your case necks have lube on them. The single step neck down goes smoothly.

 

[Judd]

Having never owned a hornady bushing die what does hornady do different than say Redding on their bushing dies? I tried going a single step down to .29 with Redding dies and I was crushing cases

With Lapua brass, I had the same issue...I ended up just doing 2 steps. Brass was too expensive to be crushing too many of them

 

[Odd1out]

With Lapua brass, I had the same issue...I ended up just doing 2 steps. Brass was too expensive to be crushing too many of them

What size bushings where you using?

Sent from my SM-G986W using Tapatalk

 

[Judd]

.271 is my final and I can't remember exactly but I think it was a .280 ish...something more in the middle of the original neck and .271.

 

[SecretSpot]

Currently putting together a 6prc. Using lapua brass. Ive read through all 17 pages and i still cannot understand the best route to take for necking this brass.

Can someone explain step by step the process and the exact bushings and mandrel needed within this process.

I suppose a walk thru starting with virgin 6.5PRC brass and the following steps to complete loadable 6mm brass. Looking for 3thou neck tension.

I apologize in advance, I am not a very experienced reloader. Thanks

 

[Schmo]

Currently putting together a 6prc. Using lapua brass. Ive read through all 17 pages and i still cannot understand the best route to take for necking this brass.

Can someone explain step by step the process and the exact bushings and mandrel needed within this process.

I suppose a walk thru starting with virgin 6.5PRC brass and the following steps to complete loadable 6mm brass. Looking for 3thou neck tension.

I apologize in advance, I am not a very experienced reloader. Thanks

I use Lapua brass. Hornady Match Grade 6.5 PRC bushing die set with a .270” bushing gives me 3-4 thou neck tension. You can then use a .241 mandrel, with which your brass should shrink back to about .240” ID

 

[406Backwoods]

Currently putting together a 6prc. Using lapua brass. Ive read through all 17 pages and i still cannot understand the best route to take for necking this brass.

Can someone explain step by step the process and the exact bushings and mandrel needed within this process.

I suppose a walk thru starting with virgin 6.5PRC brass and the following steps to complete loadable 6mm brass. Looking for 3thou neck tension.

I apologize in advance, I am not a very experienced reloader. Thanks

I just necked down 100 pieces of ADG. Hornady Match die with a .268 bushing and opened them back up with a .240 mandrel. I will be ordering a larger bushing as the .268 makes the necks substantially tighter than needed. But a single pass was all it took. Just make sure you are sizing the whole neck. I noticed on my first couple pieces that I didn’t have the die low enough and had to adjust. Pretty easy peasy

 

[huntnful]

Make sure you chamfer the outside of the neck first. Lube it well with Redding case lube. Don’t just smash it through the die. Raise it up till it touches and then slowly force the brass in. Set the die low enough so that it bumps the shoulder .001, then back it out a smidge. Then you know your size as much of the neck as possible.

 

[Axlrod]

Currently putting together a 6prc. Using lapua brass. Ive read through all 17 pages and i still cannot understand the best route to take for necking this brass.

Can someone explain step by step the process and the exact bushings and mandrel needed within this process.

I suppose a walk thru starting with virgin 6.5PRC brass and the following steps to complete loadable 6mm brass. Looking for 3thou neck tension.

I apologize in advance, I am not a very experienced reloader. Thanks

What i do is:
Chamfer the case necks, any VLD type tool will work, but the best I have used is the Sinclair VLD.
Lube with Redding/Imperial or Royal Case Lube (non-spray type)
I don't have a 6PRC, but a 6-7PRC so the final bushing may need to be a little different. I use 302/288/273 in order, then wipe lube off case w/microfiber towel after the last resize. I don't use a mandrel, as this just works the necks more than needed. I set neck tension with the correct bushing and no expander button.

When seating bullets, I put some of the case lube on the bullet (just a small amount). Otherwise the combination of new brass and the necks being thicker from the size down, can cause the bullets to grab, and collapse the case. After first fireing, there will be carbon in the necks to prevent this from happening.

Then after fireing check neck diameter against your reamer print. You need some clearence here (.002" or more).
You can also see if a bullet will easily fit in the fired case neck, if you don't have the reamer print. If you need more neck clearance, you will need to turn the necks down.
If you want send me a direct message and I will give you my phone # and I can probably better explain this.

 

[SecretSpot]

What i do is:
Chamfer the case necks, any VLD type tool will work, but the best I have used is the Sinclair VLD.
Lube with Redding/Imperial or Royal Case Lube (non-spray type)
I don't have a 6PRC, but a 6-7PRC so the final bushing may need to be a little different. I use 302/288/273 in order, then wipe lube off case w/microfiber towel after the last resize. I don't use a mandrel, as this just works the necks more than needed. I set neck tension with the correct bushing and no expander button.

When seating bullets, I put some of the case lube on the bullet (just a small amount). Otherwise the combination of new brass and the necks being thicker from the size down, can cause the bullets to grab, and collapse the case. After first fireing, there will be carbon in the necks to prevent this from happening.

Then after fireing check neck diameter against your reamer print. You need some clearence here (.002" or more).
You can also see if a bullet will easily fit in the fired case neck, if you don't have the reamer print. If you need more neck clearance, you will need to turn the necks down.
If you want send me a direct message and I will give you my phone # and I can probably better explain this.

That is clear, thanks.

 

[SecretSpot]

Alot of guys using a mandrel on the final pass. Do you feel it is crucial for ES/accuracy in the load. What are your experiences with and without using a mandrel. I understand if you dont use a mandrel, the last neck bushing used may have to be exactly what you need your NT to be (ex: instead of a .270 may need a .273) . Thanks

 

[ckleeves]

It’s not mandatory to use a mandrel, but it sure helps on virgin brass after necking down for seating consistency and takes the ugly out from the neckdown. I inside chamfer after necking down so a mandrel helps with getting the neck back to round before cutting on it. I don’t do load development on virgin brass anyway so that initial firing doesn’t really matter but running a mandrel thru for the couple minutes it takes to do 50 cases isn’t a big deal. And when it does matter I do think there is enough benefit to using a mandrel every firing I’m willing to waste/take the few minutes to do it.

 

[Judd]

Here’s the way I’ve always looked at it…if you neck turn the necks are uniform all the way around. Since I don’t shoot benchrest anymore, ain’t no body got time for that . So you have a choice..you can either size with no mandrel or button and the outside of your necks are uniform or you can use a mandrel or button and the inside of your necks are uniform…without neck turning, you can’t have both.

At least that’s how my pea brain has thought about it.

 

[SecretSpot]

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated!