6.5 PRC Newbie

King12

FNG
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Jan 20, 2023
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Hey guys new experience for me, I feel like I went full blown rokslider and bought a Tikka in 6.5 prc. Never owned a tikka or 6.5 before so not a whole lot of knowledge for reloading plus I’m newish to reloading.
Looking for some insight. From what I’ve seen on here ADG brass seems recommended. I was going to try H1000. Seems like a lot of people use N565. Any other powders suggested? Powder/primer combos that worked well?
The bullet I plan on using is the 125 grain Hammer HHT.
Is it worth converting the tikka to long action and use the HCA mag?
 
Those powders might be slower than optimal for that weight class of bullet, use published load data from reputable sources and pick a known stable powder like Hodgdons Extreme that will provide good case fill and velocity. My Tikka 6.5 PRC had the long action bolt stop from the factory, and I use LA magnum 3rd mags so they're flush. It's likely the throat is too short in your rifle to take advantage of extra mag room, but you'll have to take those measurements and find the limitations with that particular bullet to be sure.
 
N565 worked well for 130gr TMK.

I prefer H1000 for 147eld and 156 eol.

I have a long action bolt stop and use 300 win mag factory mags.
 
Those powders might be slower than optimal for that weight class of bullet, use published load data from reputable sources and pick a known stable powder like Hodgdons Extreme that will provide good case fill and velocity. My Tikka 6.5 PRC had the long action bolt stop from the factory, and I use LA magnum 3rd mags so they're flush. It's likely the throat is too short in your rifle to take advantage of extra mag room, but you'll have to take those measurements and find the limitations with that particular bullet to be sure.
Do you have any recommendations on reputable sources? Were you able to fit 3 rounds in the flush magnum mag? I’ve seen mixed reviews where people were saying they were only able to fit 2 rounds.
 
I only have the sizing die from Hornady. I still use the seating die from Redding but threw their sizing die out in the trash.

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For my knowledge, what is wrong with the Redding sizing die?

I have their full length type s.


6.5 PRC die is too short.

You can't reliably size the case down far enough to chamber without smushing it.

Had issues with my Redding 450 marlin sizing die too where it was putting a neck on the case that had to be expanded back out before seating.

Somethings up with their process.
 
+1 for Hornady full length dies.
It only makes sense that the folks who brought the cartridge to the masses should know how to make dies for them.
 
Do you have any recommendations on reputable sources? Were you able to fit 3 rounds in the flush magnum mag? I’ve seen mixed reviews where people were saying they were only able to fit 2 rounds.
+2 for Hornady dies. Cheap, simple, effective.

Yes 3 rounds fit and feed just fine, have never had an issue.

I use Hodgdon, Hornady, and/or Berger load data to cross reference max loads and see where a good place to start is. With a new load I always start with a mild charge and work up, a quick pressure test in .5gr increments working up toward max and watching for pressure signs. Learn what to watch for, ejector stamp/swipe, excessive velocity, and bolt lift/sticky extraction are the hard STOP and drop 1.5gr from there for me. Read this Painless Load Development thread and go from there.

Also, brass that is fireformed and shoulder bumped an optimal .002-3" will likely show pressure at a slightly lesser charge weight than new, so if you run it up to the ragged edge on new brass I suggest double checking that load with resized brass.
 
+2 for Hornady dies. Cheap, simple, effective.

Yes 3 rounds fit and feed just fine, have never had an issue.

I use Hodgdon, Hornady, and/or Berger load data to cross reference max loads and see where a good place to start is. With a new load I always start with a mild charge and work up, a quick pressure test in .5gr increments working up toward max and watching for pressure signs. Learn what to watch for, ejector stamp/swipe, excessive velocity, and bolt lift/sticky extraction are the hard STOP and drop 1.5gr from there for me. Read this Painless Load Development thread and go from there.

Also, brass that is fireformed and shoulder bumped an optimal .002-3" will likely show pressure at a slightly lesser charge weight than new, so if you run it up to the ragged edge on new brass I suggest double checking that load with resized brass.
I will be giving all that a look over. Thanks
 
I will be giving all that a look over. Thanks
You bet. If it's a new rifle and components situation, honestly anymore I don't ramp it up til second firing on a 100pc lot. Just load at a mild charge, true up the calculator and shoot. Once it's all fireformed and prepped, do another pressure test to see where safe top end performance is and call it a load. That starts settling the barrel in and will help with brass life too.
 
You bet. If it's a new rifle and components situation, honestly anymore I don't ramp it up til second firing on a 100pc lot. Just load at a mild charge, true up the calculator and shoot. Once it's all fireformed and prepped, do another pressure test to see where safe top end performance is and call it a load. That starts settling the barrel in and will help with brass life too.
Thats pretty much exactly what I was going to do. Mild load with some cheap bullets to fire form the brass. Then dive into building a load
 
6.5 PRC die is too short.

You can't reliably size the case down far enough to chamber without smushing it.

Had issues with my Redding 450 marlin sizing die too where it was putting a neck on the case that had to be expanded back out before seating.

Somethings up with their process.
Strange. This its the first time I’ve heard about this on any forum.
 
Thats pretty much exactly what I was going to do. Mild load with some cheap bullets to fire form the brass. Then dive into building a load
That's why I like ELD's, they're cheap enough it doesn't even make sense to do that, because you'll get it all done at the same time. Not much will change from the first 100 rounds to the next 900 probably, besides maybe some velocity migration. It will either shoot the combination you pick well, or you'll have to test different bullets or powders to find one it likes.
 
That's why I like ELD's, they're cheap enough it doesn't even make sense to do that, because you'll get it all done at the same time. Not much will change from the first 100 rounds to the next 900 probably, besides maybe some velocity migration. It will either shoot the combination you pick well, or you'll have to test different bullets or powders to find one it likes.
Unfortunately I’m stuck in commiefornia so I have to use copper.
 
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