6.5 Creedmoor expansion out of a 24 inch vs 20 inch barrel, hunting using copper non lead bullets

[huntsd]

Do you find that the hammer or the lehigh controlled chaos ammo that petals out have better expansion at lower velocities than a copper monolith like Barnes LRX? If I can get away with shooting a 6.5 Creedmoor I definitely will take it over a 6.5 PRC haha.

I really dont have a data set to answer that question. I do know for hammers that it their selling point, but again you have to reload for that.

I am a suffer too of analysis paralysis. I'd just get the one your gut is telling you to go with. Really both willl work. If you really want to get in the weeds. Run a balistics calculator for both (https://www.jbmballistics.com/ballistics/calculators/calculators.shtml) and look at the numbers. you can get the data you need off the ammo manufactures website. If you dont like your pick down the road you can always sell it and switch to the other one.

 

[SDHNTR]

I’ve killed several hundred animals with copper bullets. Everything from .223 to .454 and everything in between. All with non lead. Most of my rifles have 18-22” barrels and everything 6mm on up will have a brake, for spotting hits. My only non braked rifle is my .223, yet it’s threaded and may wear one some day. I do like to minimize muzzle flip to every extent possible. I simply wear easy to access headband earplugs.

The only bullet I’ve not been satisfied with was the original TSX, due to lack of expansion. Other than that, TTSX, CX, Hammers, some boutique copper, bla, bla bla, it just doesn’t matter. Nor does an extra or less 100fps. Put the damn bullet where it belongs and stuff dies. No calculus required. There’s not a hill of beans difference between any of them. Shoot the one that is most accurate out of your gun and go hunting.

 

[UnckleBob]

Honestly I am not opposed to getting the same tikka t3x superlite roughtech from EuroOptic chambered in a 6.5 PRC (its a 24 inch barrel). It just seems like sacrificing barrel life, recoil, and ammo availability for higher velocities to target at distance is a bit wasted. Several posters previously have had good velocities with the 6.5CM out 400 yard and I do not envisioning hunting any further than that.


Although you can make the argument that since it is mainly used for hunting, all of these detractors is well worth the extra muzzle velocity for peace of mind.

I have a Roughtech with a 24" carbon barrel. It is very manageable without a brake and does have some velocity advantage over the 6.5CM. With a suppressor, the rifle has extremely manageable recoil.

1) The vast majority of shooters who are "hunters" will never come close to shooting out a barrel.
2) With a 20" barrel, I would bet the velocity you get will be very close to or above the velocity you would get with the 24" 6.5CM.


From your posts, weight seems to be a big factor important to your decision. Don't forget to look at Kimber and certain models of the X-Bolt.

 

[youttriggered]

I will most likely stick with the 20 inch 6.5CM due to ammo availability and portability. Talked with a custom ammo maker near me and we can definitely do some ammo load tests to push some non lead bullet varieties out fast enough at longer distances.

Did not go with a 6.5PRC because if I wanted a heavier shooting round at farther distances, I would probably get something that is more powerful than either the 6.5 CM or the 6.5 PRC. Gives me more flexibility imo. Also another reason to spend more money in the future

Thanks again everyone for thoughtful discussion about a very niche problem.

 

[huntsd]

Keep us posted on how it shoots! Congrats on the purchase

 

[youttriggered]

So I just today shot my very first Tikka, it's the 6.5 CM 20" Roughtech Superlight from EuroOptic. I absolutely love it. Bore sighted the first shot was 5" low straight down, adjusted scope 20 clicks up and 2nd show was bullseye, 3rd and 4th shots touching bullseye. From there I went over to the steel range and center punched steel plates at 209 and 300 yards effortlessly, it was the most automatic thing I've ever experienced. My only complaint is the goofy m15x1 thread pattern but I had a DT hub made to fit it so it's not the end of the world. I'd get the 20" with or without suppressor because it's just a nice balance.

Since you have the rifle I was looking at, by any chance did you use a pictanny rail mounted to the receiver or did you use dovetail scope rings?

I had some vortex precision rings already from my rimfire I was looking to move over. I was wondering if these EGW rails would fit on this model. I assumed that the stainless t3x superlite receiver would be the same as the t3x superlite roughtech receiver.

Hunter Series Tikka Picatinny Rail 0 MOA

Enhance your Tikka rifle's accuracy with the Hunter Series 0 MOA Picatinny Rail from Evolution Gun Works. Durable, lightweight, and precision-engineered for superior performance.

egwguns.com

 

[HairyScandinavian]

Since you have the rifle I was looking at, by any chance did you use a pictanny rail mounted to the receiver or did you use dovetail scope rings?

I had some vortex precision rings already from my rimfire I was looking to move over. I was wondering if these EGW rails would fit on this model. I assumed that the stainless t3x superlite receiver would be the same as the t3x superlite roughtech receiver.

Hunter Series Tikka Picatinny Rail 0 MOA

Enhance your Tikka rifle's accuracy with the Hunter Series 0 MOA Picatinny Rail from Evolution Gun Works. Durable, lightweight, and precision-engineered for superior performance.

egwguns.com

Neither, I ended up with Talley extra low because that's the lowest I could get. The Pic rails add a lot of height unfortunately and the Tikka rings from Sportsmatch and UM were still much higher. We'll see how it goes, so far I like it. I think I'd go with the Sportsmatch Tikka specific rings if I changed anything, they're proven and less parts to tack on is usually a good thing.

All my other rifles wear Pic rails though and I like Warne or Leupold (gasp!) for lightweight aluminum rails.

 

[HairyScandinavian]

Neither, I ended up with Talley extra low because that's the lowest I could get. The Pic rails add a lot of height unfortunately and the Tikka rings from Sportsmatch and UM were still much higher. We'll see how it goes, so far I like it. I think I'd go with the Sportsmatch Tikka specific rings if I changed anything, they're proven and less parts to tack on is usually a good thing.

All my other rifles wear Pic rails though and I like Warne or Leupold (gasp!) for lightweight aluminum rails.

By Talley I mean their one-piece rings and bases. Don't make fun of my gold ring, it's what I had available for spare. It's also 25 years old and tracked perfectly for a legitimate one shot zero.

 

[youttriggered]

By Talley I mean their one-piece rings and bases. Don't make fun of my gold ring, it's what I had available for spare. It's also 25 years old and tracked perfectly for a legitimate one shot zero.

Don't think your scope is low enough, have you considered going even lower and fluting the top of your barrel?

 

[HairyScandinavian]

Don't think your scope is low enough, have you considered going even lower and fluting the top of your barrel?

These scopes were crazy, wish they still made them..

 

[bazzturd]

Hi guys was looking to buy my first rifle for hunting deer and bear in CA and was worried about the expansion abilities of copper bullets when going down from a 24inch barrel to a 20 inch barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor due to decreased velocity. Aiming to get a muzzle break so would prefer the 20 inch but recoil is quite manageable so I don't mind going with a longer 24 inch.

What rifle are you thinking of buying?

 

[youttriggered]

What rifle are you thinking of buying?

I actually already bought it but ended going with a 6.5 CM Tikka t3x superlite ss 24 inch barrel.