4 Fletch For Fixed Blades

[shawnjon]

I will be using the 50g daysix insert and collar setup. If my math is close should put it around 580 total arrow weight.

 

[[email protected]]

6 with the max stealth? Those suckers are heavy. I’d run just 3 of the max stealth.

I’ve run 6 fletch in the plastifletch max 1.6” vanes with good results

Heavy is somewhat my objective Iv got 315 grains up front lol.

 

[Cody_W]

I will be using the 50g daysix insert and collar setup. If my math is close should put it around 580 total arrow weight.

What kind of speed are you running with that much weight?

 

[justin davis]

Heavy is somewhat my objective Iv got 315 grains up front lol.

Haha true that’s some weight up front!!

 

[Brendan]

I ran Vanetec V-Max 4 Fletch this year. 4 of them are the same weight as 3 Max Stealth. Definitely not quite as durable though.

 

[traviswdalton]

I’ve been using 4 rayzors for a long time. I would try to put lots of helical on them. I found they work just as good straight and are a lot quieter. The natural curve creates plenty drag. If you’re into high FOC it’s an excellent way to increase it. 650 grain arrow 23% FOC


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[2Stamp]

Yep. They work for me and my current setup. I've been shooting them with an Iron Will. I also tried the AAE EP 23. They are a little more flexible and show wear quicker, they also flew well.

 

[Zac]

I run the Valkyrie system with the Pro Max in 4 Fletch, 250 up front on a 250 VAP works great, however I don't think the Jagger plains much, there isn't alot of flat surfaces on that head. Also there could be something to the FOC theory, anyway they fly amazing.

 

[Cody_W]

I have Brent building me a dozen VAP 300s with a 200 head and the aluminum insert. Excited to get them and compare them to my iron wills setup.

 

[ncstewart]

I use 4 bohning shield cut 3in with right helical. Shot shuttle Ts and cut throats out to 50 with no issues.
Only down side is you loose a tiny bit of speed but not that much. You can alway straight fletch 4 with off set to gain speed. I have my test somewhere that I checked speed at 10 30 and 50 and 4 helical is slower. But I haven’t had any issues getting heads to hit or fly either.


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[Fins_N_Tines]

They should work fine with some of the shorter fixed blade heads. You might have to play with how much helical you put on them to get enough drag on the back end to keep them from getting wacky. Currently I use 3" Q2i Fusion X-II for my setup. They're heavier than you're wanting, but they make everything fly like darts with my bow.

you using those 3" Q2i in 3 or 4 fletch?

 

[theleo91386]

you using those 3" Q2i in 3 or 4 fletch?

I use them in a 4 fletch. They'd do just fine in a 3 fletch with my setup, but I prefer using a 4 fletch so I don't have to look for the cock vane when I nock an arrow.

 

[Fins_N_Tines]

I use them in a 4 fletch. They'd do just fine in a 3 fletch with my setup, but I prefer using a 4 fletch so I don't have to look for the cock vane when I nock an arrow.

Ok, well I have a pack of the 3" fusion x-ii and I wanted to use them in 4 fletch but wasn't sure if it would be to much drag as I haven't tried them out.

 

[Beendare]

many advantages to 4 fletch...the main one being you don't hav to look when nocking an arrow

 

[Buffalomtn]

many advantages to 4 fletch...the main one being you don't hav to look when nocking an arrow

i guess that would only apply if you do not nock tune/spine align your arrows?

 

[theleo91386]

Ok, well I have a pack of the 3" fusion x-ii and I wanted to use them in 4 fletch but wasn't sure if it would be to much drag as I haven't tried them out.

To much drag is kind of a hard thing to diagnose. I use a Vane Master jig so I can play with the helical in 1 degree increments from 0-5. So I started with fletching groups with 1 degree helical and kept adding helical till my groups no longer showed any improvement with broadheads. For my setup the groups plateaued with 3 degrees of helical, so that's what I fletch them at. As to what to much helical means, I'm not exactly sure, but comparing these with how I fletched previously that had quite a bit more helical (4, 2" Vane Tec HP's using an EZ-Fletch mini) my current setup groups around 8-10" out around 90 yards. Groups are pretty much the same size, just what I have now hits a little higher.

Now for my earth shattering conclusion with all that:
The expensive jig, and the more expensive vanes really gained me nothing. The less helical and drag gained me a little bit BC as evidence by the groups, but I've got no interest in shooting game that far and if I was forced to I really don't believe the difference in KE amounts to that much. When I practice that far out I'm using a range finder and dialing my sight, so it's no real advantage there. I don't believe to much helical really exists, but I've found that for me, there's definitely a point where more helical doesn't gain you anything.

 

[theleo91386]

i guess that would only apply if you do not nock tune/spine align your arrows?

There might be an argument for that for punching paper but by the time you add a broad head into the mix the extra vane is taking over for those small forces. If your bow is tuned to group bare shafts with broadheads at 20-30 yards and you've gone through those steps, 4 fletching is pointless except for vanity sake (my main reason for doing it, but I do like the not looking part) or just having that extra bit of color to help find the arrow after the shot.

 

[Fins_N_Tines]

To much drag is kind of a hard thing to diagnose. I use a Vane Master jig so I can play with the helical in 1 degree increments from 0-5. So I started with fletching groups with 1 degree helical and kept adding helical till my groups no longer showed any improvement with broadheads. For my setup the groups plateaued with 3 degrees of helical, so that's what I fletch them at. As to what to much helical means, I'm not exactly sure, but comparing these with how I fletched previously that had quite a bit more helical (4, 2" Vane Tec HP's using an EZ-Fletch mini) my current setup groups around 8-10" out around 90 yards. Groups are pretty much the same size, just what I have now hits a little higher.

Now for my earth shattering conclusion with all that:
The expensive jig, and the more expensive vanes really gained me nothing. The less helical and drag gained me a little bit BC as evidence by the groups, but I've got no interest in shooting game that far and if I was forced to I really don't believe the difference in KE amounts to that much. When I practice that far out I'm using a range finder and dialing my sight, so it's no real advantage there. I don't believe to much helical really exists, but I've found that for me, there's definitely a point where more helical doesn't gain you anything.

All great points and thanks for taking the time to share your expertise. I was planning on fletching these 2 degree offset with a straight clamp.

I agree that if your bow is tuned well 3 fletch will do just fine; however I like not have a cock vane and I like the extra weight in the back.

 

[Dos Perros]

I use the Bohning Heat in a 4 fletch with Slick Tricks. I like it. Went that way for more clearance and more nock tune options, and because I was running a 4 blade broadhead, and because I'm an engineer too and I reeeeaaaaaallly thought about it too much.

 

[nphunter]

I’m testing 3,4&6 fletch max stealths on my new arrow build I’m confident I’ll settle on the 4 fletch but man the 6 looks cool.

I agree with Justin, you'll end up with Negative FOC using 6 Max Stealths. I run 6 PM 2.0's and have good luck, tested with IW S100's 3 Max Stealths, 4 PM 2.0 and 6 PM 2.0. The 6 fletches did better than the 4 for sure, was similar with the 3 but way smaller for contact and wind drift and 6 PM 2.0 actually weigh less than 3 Max Stealths.