300 WM Load

[bullmtn]

I have two 300WM's, one is a mid 90's savage 110 and the other is a brand new Tikka. I have never been good at load development nor do I count myself a professional shooter or reloader. This a Elk/Deer load, looking at a starting point or ideas; my idea was to start with 180gr Accubonds with H4831sc at 69 grains (incrementally increase). It would be nice/interesting to see if I could find a load they both more or less like (probably not realistic, I'm really looking for a good load for the Tikka first and foremost ). I am looking for around a 1 MOA load for the Tikka and 1.5 MOA for the Savage. Are they any other starting points that people have had luck with?

Thank you for your insight.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Start low and work up. I use h4831 with 178eldx in my WM. It’ll do what you’re wanting.

 

[DAOutfitters208]

300 Winchester Magnum Load Data

Explore the world of Nosler, renowned for crafting the finest bullets, ammunition, rifles, and brass. Discover our extensive lineup, including Partition, AccuBond, E-Tip, Ballistic Tip, Custom Competition, and more. Experience superior quality and performance with Nosler products.

www.nosler.com

I have had great results with the Nosler load data. Their most accurate loads have usually proven true. 69 grns seems to be middle of the chart for H4831SC per the Hodgdon website, I would say it should shoot well for you. If not, maybe try some of the powders in Noslers data, I have always had great results with IMR 4350 or IMR 4831 in multiple 300 win mags.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

nosler most accurate loads tend to be pretty darn good.

 

[Wrench]

I just ran 200.20x bergers through 75grs h4831sc in one of my recent 300win builds yesterday. You should be way safe at 69.

 

[bullmtn]

That sounds great thank you, In high school and college I always used blemished bullet from Nosler so I always leaned towards them. Anther question I have, I have a bunch of random brass I have collected throughout the years, my plan was to sort them by head stamp then full size and trim then group by weight. Am I missing anything in the sorting process? I am being too picky?

 

[Pickettpuncher]

That sounds great thank you, In high school and college I always used blemished bullet from Nosler so I always leaned towards them. Anther question I have, I have a bunch of random brass I have collected throughout the years, my plan was to sort them by head stamp then full size and trim then group by weight. Am I missing anything in the sorting process? I am being too picky?

Not too picky. I separate all my brass if I’m looking for accuracy.

 

[CanyonHunter]

Yeah keep the brass separate and start with what you have the most of. I’d wear out each brand and move on to the next. With nosler I have good luck with their book COAL. I’ll chase the lands with other brands but not nosler.

 

[rkcdvm]

Mine really liked 4831 at 68.2 grains with most bullets in 200 grains. I bet you can get both of those rifles to shoot sub moa though. RL 22 worked really well for me too.

 

[8791Hickory]

Been using H4831sc with 70 gr behind 180gr partitions and accubonds in my 300wm t/c encore. Pretty steady 1 inch groups @ 100yds. Kicks like hell though. Guess I am getting soft in my old age.

 

[Jr4]

I use 190 Bergers over 4831SC

 

[D S 319]

Has anyone has anything like this happen with reloads? I was reloading at the top of the book grain wise. They have maybe been reloaded 2-4 times? I just assume that I’m only gonna be able to reload them once or twice then toss the brass.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Has anyone has anything like this happen with reloads? I was reloading at the top of the book grain wise. They have maybe been reloaded 2-4 times? I just assume that I’m only gonna be able to reload them once or twice then toss the brass.
View attachment 443783

I haven’t experienced it yet but that’s very common in belted magnums. You should set your die to headspace off the shoulder instead of the belt to help minimize and also keep an eye on that area above the belt.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Has anyone has anything like this happen with reloads? I was reloading at the top of the book grain wise. They have maybe been reloaded 2-4 times? I just assume that I’m only gonna be able to reload them once or twice then toss the brass.
View attachment 443783

That's case head separation. You'll find lots to read about it, but the cure has already been provided above.

 

[D S 319]

Appreciate it fellas!

 

[Harvey_NW]

Anther question I have, I have a bunch of random brass I have collected throughout the years, my plan was to sort them by head stamp then full size and trim then group by weight.

Don't group by weight, group by headstamp and only shoot all the same if you expect any consistent results. Different brands of brass have different volumes and pressure thresholds and mixing them in a bolt action is just setting yourself up for failure, if not a safety concern.

Appreciate it fellas!

If you dial in a measurable .002" shoulder bump and they're still tight when chambering look up the Larry Willis collet die. It adds an extra step in the sizing process because you'll have to size the web above the belt, but it's the only tooling that solves the issue if you have a tight chamber or are shooting hot loads. These issues are exactly why I ditched belted magnums.

 

[Gila]

I am new to the 300 win mag and reloading. I did not notice a definite bulge just above the belt on once fired brass. That collet die is supposed to remove the bulge above the belt, but working the brass like that I would think it may give an additional reload or two but eventually fail anyway. 300 win mag brass is as scarce as hens teeth. Two bucks apiece is a lot for brass if you can even find it. The military is cranking out sniper weapons in 300 win mag which might be part of the problem with loading components for the 300 win mag.

 

[Harvey_NW]

That collet die is supposed to remove the bulge above the belt, but working the brass like that I would think it may give an additional reload or two but eventually fail anyway.

Negative. It resizes the web area above the belt the same way a standard FL die does on non belted cases. A standard FL die won't size far enough on belted cases when headspaced off the shoulder instead of the belt as designed. So in the event you have a tight chamber or a load that stretches the web you have 3 options: shoot only new brass, smash it back down to SAAMI spec and get case head separation 3rd firing, or properly bump shoulders and run it through the collet die in a separate step and shoot it until the primer pockets blow out like all other properly sized brass.

I personally know of 3 Bergara 7RM's that the brass has to be ran through the collet die every firing or they won't chamber. My buddy that kept his has multiple firings on his original lot of brass

 

[KS2MOHUNTER]

I am fairly new to reloading but have enjoyed tinkering with a new hobby.

I have a Fierce Fury 300 WM. Using 73 grains of H4831 behind Barnes 180 gr TTSX shoots right at 3000 FPS and sub MOA.

 

[Squadguy29]

I have two 300WM's, one is a mid 90's savage 110 and the other is a brand new Tikka. I have never been good at load development nor do I count myself a professional shooter or reloader. This a Elk/Deer load, looking at a starting point or ideas; my idea was to start with 180gr Accubonds with H4831sc at 69 grains (incrementally increase). It would be nice/interesting to see if I could find a load they both more or less like (probably not realistic, I'm really looking for a good load for the Tikka first and foremost ). I am looking for around a 1 MOA load for the Tikka and 1.5 MOA for the Savage. Are they any other starting points that people have had luck with?

Thank you for your insight.

I got a great deal on some 180gr Accubonds a few years ago and now I'm sold on their accuracy. The following load is 1 moa or under consistently:

180 Gr Accubonds, 73.0 gr H4831, Federal 215 Primers, Norma Brass. COL 3.330.

This is just shy of max load so starting at 69 grains would be good place to start. Just make sure when you full-length size you're bumping the shoulder .002 off the brass you have fired from each rifle (they're probably different) and keep them separate.

I have two 300WM's, one is a mid 90's savage 110 and the other is a brand new Tikka. I have never been good at load development nor do I count myself a professional shooter or reloader. This a Elk/Deer load, looking at a starting point or ideas; my idea was to start with 180gr Accubonds with H4831sc at 69 grains (incrementally increase). It would be nice/interesting to see if I could find a load they both more or less like (probably not realistic, I'm really looking for a good load for the Tikka first and foremost ). I am looking for around a 1 MOA load for the Tikka and 1.5 MOA for the Savage. Are they any other starting points that people have had luck with?

Thank you for your insight.