300 spine is too weak, 250 spine is too stiff?

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I don't know prime at all but isn't something supposed to be done with a flex guard or something? I think it's some way of tuning cam lean, not certain. Just making sure you have exhausted that.
 
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TheCougar

TheCougar

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Yup. Tried the flexis and adjusting draw weight and point weight. Moved the rest left and right. So far the 4 fletch is the only thing that has shown improvement.


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Well, Lancaster will sell you a single arrow. Try the .250.


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OR Archer

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One thing I’ve found with Prime is they’re very sensitive to grip pressure. I’ve found that with not enough heal pressure in the palm that they tend to shoot tail right through paper for most shooters. This would be what you’re experiencing with your broadhead results. Might be something for your to try also.
 
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TheCougar

TheCougar

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One thing I’ve found with Prime is they’re very sensitive to grip pressure. I’ve found that with not enough heal pressure in the palm that they tend to shoot tail right through paper for most shooters. This would be what you’re experiencing with your broadhead results. Might be something for your to try also.

I’ll certainly try that. Any specific pointers on grip or pressure you want to share? I’ll see if I can find a pic of my grip and send it.


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NYSKIER

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Any updates? Curious to see how you make out. Not to hit a sore spot but I almost went with a prime a few years ago but got talked out of hit because I heard they were tough to tune
 
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TheCougar

TheCougar

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Any updates? Curious to see how you make out. Not to hit a sore spot but I almost went with a prime a few years ago but got talked out of hit because I heard they were tough to tune

I am messing with my bow at the moment. 4 fletch really helped, then I tinkered with my bow and I’ve got other problems. FWIW, I don’t think the bow is hard to tune. I’m learning and making errors as I go, so much of the problem is probably my ignorance.
 
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I am messing with my bow at the moment. 4 fletch really helped, then I tinkered with my bow and I’ve got other problems. FWIW, I don’t think the bow is hard to tune. I’m learning and making errors as I go, so much of the problem is probably my ignorance.

It sounds like you’ve learned the “one variable at a time” rule the hard way. Just keep plugging away at it- it sounds like you’re on the right track at least.
 

ia bhtr

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By going 4 fletch , you did 2 things , a little more stability to the arrow , it also slightly stiffened the spine by putting more drag on the back of the arrow as well as a few more grains of weight , more weight/drag on the back of the arrow effects spine just like reducing weight up front , the advice above on grip pressure is probably the best advice you have gotten so far
 

Brandon_SPC

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Feb 19, 2019
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That pinwheel software runs like 20-30 fps faster than most other calculaters. For my 30" I34 set at 82lbs (ibo i think 343) ends up putting my 610 grain arrow in the low 280s if I recall. When in reality it chronos at 267 fps. So what I have to do is adjust the IBO tell I get the real calculated FPS to 267 fps then choose my arrow spine off that. It so far has been accurate for what I have chosen.
 
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TheCougar

TheCougar

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Yup. Archers Advantage is the same way. Had to crank down the IBO to match real world speeds.
 

KyleR1985

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Jul 28, 2019
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30.5 75lbs prime black 5. Can tune 300,250,200 with weights from 510-630 in any spine all tune well. The 300 gets a little squirrelly if too much weight up front, I’ve got to have perfect form. But 550 and below it Tunes easily. I think you can get there wjth the 300. Square arrows, go long and cut off back end of arrow as needed to optimize spine once you’ve gotten in the ball park. Use draw weight adjustments to help you get there.

mine all tune with a 3 fletch and small diameter fixed heads. I would think if you have to go to four fletch it’s you or the bow, not the arrow. But it doesn’t hurt to do it.
 
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