$3 UL saw build (2023 update)

[WoodBow]

I’ve found that the pruning blades work way better than those metal blades. If you have any hair or skin on bone, the metal blades fine teeth build up with gunk SUPER easily and then cut like garbage.

Worth a shot. I agree that the fine teeth need a pretty clean cutting surface. I only went to them because i assumed they would be better on bone. I hope to skull plate out a couple more bucks in September, so i can do more testing.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[7mm-08]

Great idea and excellent execution. You could make a few bucks if you marketed this project.

 

[Steve O]

I edited the first post and added pics there as well, but i made a new version for this year from 1/8" aluminum. It came out to 3.7 ounces, which is very slightly heavier.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Does the blade lock open somehow?

 

[WoodBow]

Does the blade lock open somehow?

It hits a stop. Sawing pressure pushes it against to stop. It takes some force to open/close it. I have used it quite a bit and have never had it try to close any at all when in use.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[fshaw]

How did you put the sides together? Screws or rivets, and if screws did you tap and thread the side we see in the pictures? Did you use a spacer at the end opposite the blade? What did you use as a blade stop?

Sorry for all the questions. It’s a nice piece.

 

[Hnthrdr]

Great job! Following

 

[NRA4LIFE]

Very cool idea. I'm guessing the Chinese have already stolen the idea and have produced 90 million of them.

 

[WoodBow]

How did you put the sides together? Screws or rivets, and if screws did you tap and thread the side we see in the pictures? Did you use a spacer at the end opposite the blade? What did you use as a blade stop?

Sorry for all the questions. It’s a nice piece.

I drilled slightly under sized holes and allowed the screws to self thread. Thus makes a good friction fit for them. I just used the blade as a spacer and then tweaked screw depth for best fit.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[fshaw]

I drilled slightly under sized holes and allowed the screws to self thread. Thus makes a good friction fit for them. I just used the blade as a spacer and then tweaked screw depth for best fit.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

Thank you.

 

[Darren D]

I have always wanted a saw to use for skull capping deer when backpacking to keep from having to carry the skull out. I looked at a few builds on here and elsewhere online. I weighed out the pros and cons of each, for my applications, and came up with this. 1/2" emt conduit scrap skeletonized. Standard reciprocating saw blade. It has a wing nut on the other side to tension it with. I bought a 5 pack of 9" bi-metal blades for $15. I figured the finer tooth would be best for bone. Can take a pruning blade too when we are taking the stove. Works like a champ on antler and 2 inch hickory limb i tested it on.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

I wanted to make a new one that was a bit fancier. It actually weights point two ounces more. So it is 3.7 ounces total.

Great job! I’ll do my best replicate one this winter. Should save me 4 oz vs my Bahco. Thank you

 

[Rpd3d]

adding to my to do list. Great job

 

[Tbuckus]

I edited the first post and added pics there as well, but i made a new version for this year from 1/8" aluminum. It came out to 3.7 ounces, which is very slightly heavier.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

1/8”x1” aluminum stock?

 

[WoodBow]

1/8”x1” aluminum stock?

Yep

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[dubbeltap69]

Very nice! Been using a very small hacksaw blade holder but I really like this.

 

[Live4thedai]

Thats pretty impressive.