3/4 Ton AT Truck Tire?

[doc holiday13]

...................................... got ridiculously loud.................

This is one area the duratracs are horrible. Even with very low tread, mine are very loud and not smooth. They roll like a mud tire and are about 1/2 as loud as TSL Super Swampers

 

[displacedtexan]

Cooper is discontinuing the AT3 xlt and replacing it with the Stronghold.

Just put one last set of AT3s on.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

Cooper is discontinuing the AT3 xlt and replacing it with the Stronghold.

Just put one last set of AT3s on.

The price is very competitive as well. I’ve had some cupping issues with Cooper’s years ago but man those at3 are a great tire, ran them on my tacomas, f150 and couple sets on some diesels. Now I’m gunna have to look into the strongholds. The Cummins needs new tires by archery season. Making my list of options

 

[Marshfly]

So funny, that’s one of my favorite tires for snow and rain. I’ve put over 70k on each set on the wife’s 4 runner and normally get over 50k on a load range e on the Cummins. Ya they get loud but they wear like iron.

I think I’m either going with the falken at4 next set or the Toyo ct. I got 31k on these set of nittos and they will be the last set of nittos I ever buy, junk.

No offense intended but snow tire recommendations from someone in South Carolina don't hold much weight with those of us in Montana. Haha.

That said, factory stock tires are rarely the same compound as ones you buy from a tire dealer.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

No offense intended but snow tire recommendations from someone in South Carolina don't hold much weight with those of us in Montana. Haha.

That said, factory stock tires are rarely the same compound as ones you buy from a tire dealer.

35 years in PA, Born and raised. Plenty of time in the snow lol. Can’t say I miss one single thing about it.

 

[Mike D Texas]

Toyo ATs are the worst tire I’ve ever run. I had belt separation 7 of them about 2 years apart. And the wet pavement traction was terrible.

I got great service out of 2 sets of BFG KO2 and currently running the Wildpeak AT4. I got 70k on a 2500 Cummins truck on the KO2s.

I’m a flat lander from Texas but got caught in that November snowstorm in NM & CO back in November and they did great in the snow.


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[Marshfly]

Toyo ATs are the worst tire I’ve ever run. I had belt separation 7 of them about 2 years apart. And the wet pavement traction was terrible.

I got great service out of 2 sets of BFG KO2 and currently running the Wildpeak AT4. I got 70k on a 2500 Cummins truck on the KO2s.

I’m a flat lander from Texas but got caught in that November snowstorm in NM & CO back in November and they did great in the snow.


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You are the first person I have ever heard give a good report of KO2s on an HD Ram. They wear horribly for most people.

Also the first person to have issues with 7 Toyos...

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Been doing some exhaustive research on this topic, and I've decided to go with 37x11.5 Falken RT/01s for my next set of tires.

My truck details:
2009 Silverado crew cab 2500 HD LTZ, LMM Duramax
4" Rancho lift
Bilstein 5100
XDS 20x9 rims (came with the truck) with LT295/55/20 Toyo Open Country RT

Rationale:

• I don't like the low profile 55s on the truck now, not enough sidewall for an 80 PSI tire and even at 65 PSI ride like hell
• Don't like the width of the tires as feel less connected and too much "float" (subjective I know)
• The gaps in the tread blocks on the Open Country RT are too wide and they throw big rocks hard (rock chips)
• Ideally, I'd downgrade to 17x9 rims to maximize sidewall in a 37, but don't have an extra $800 for a set of Rockcrushers
• Falken RTs have 20/32 tread depth, pretty much the deepest you can find in this class and should wear a long time if I do my part rotating and managing air pressure, alignment, etc...
• 37s will fill up the wheel wells on my lifted truck better
• More sidewall on the 37s for airing down and adjusting ride

I was torn between these and the Kenda Klever RTs, but Kenda doesn't have a 37x11.5, and for only a couple hundred dollars difference, I went with the more proven Falkens.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

The price is very competitive as well. I’ve had some cupping issues with Cooper’s years ago but man those at3 are a great tire, ran them on my tacomas, f150 and couple sets on some diesels. Now I’m gunna have to look into the strongholds. The Cummins needs new tires by archery season. Making my list of options

I also had some cupping issues on my '19 RAM with the Coopers. Great tires other than that though.

 

[woods89]

We ordered a set of BFG KO2 33x12.5x18 for our Ford 7.3 gas today. We've got Toyo Open Country AT 2 on it currently, with about 33,000 miles on them. They are shot, and all of a sudden I've had 2 flats within a week.

I'm going to definitely run less pressure on this set, after reading this thread I think that may have been a factor on not getting more life out of the Toyo's. They have been aired up to 80 psi their whole life.

 

[displacedtexan]

Been doing some exhaustive research on this topic, and I've decided to go with 37x11.5 Falken RT/01s for my next set of tires.

My truck details:
2009 Silverado crew cab 2500 HD LTZ, LMM Duramax
4" Rancho lift
Bilstein 5100
XDS 20x9 rims (came with the truck) with LT295/55/20 Toyo Open Country RT

Rationale:

• I don't like the low profile 55s on the truck now, not enough sidewall for an 80 PSI tire and even at 65 PSI ride like hell
• Don't like the width of the tires as feel less connected and too much "float" (subjective I know)
• The gaps in the tread blocks on the Open Country RT are too wide and they throw big rocks hard (rock chips)
• Ideally, I'd downgrade to 17x9 rims to maximize sidewall in a 37, but don't have an extra $800 for a set of Rockcrushers
• Falken RTs have 20/32 tread depth, pretty much the deepest you can find in this class and should wear a long time if I do my part rotating and managing air pressure, alignment, etc...
• 37s will fill up the wheel wells on my lifted truck better
• More sidewall on the 37s for airing down and adjusting ride

I was torn between these and the Kenda Klever RTs, but Kenda doesn't have a 37x11.5, and for only a couple hundred dollars difference, I went with the more proven Falkens.

Good lord, 295/55-20s with a lift?

You'll love the new tires.

 

[TSAMP]

Recently put the new BFG KO3 on my ford. Had 2 sets of KO2s that both went into the high 60k miles range. First thoughts on the 3 is that they throw more rocks than the ko2, and they are a touch louder. Haven't spent any time off road yet but I do recall they modified the rock electors when looking at a video comparison.

I should disclose my size is an E rated tire but it's on a F150.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Good lord, 295/55-20s with a lift?

You'll love the new tires.

Right!? It was a single owner I bought from Diesels of Houston, and the owner Lee is incredible if anybody is looking for a pre-def diesel truck. He'll take every picture and video you want if you're interested and live a long ways away. He doesn't sell junk and replace parts that need replaced.

Anyways, previous owner musta liked the shorty tire look, but at least the wheels don't have the crazy offset that poke the tires out a mile. I hate that.

@TSAMP you reminded me of something. During my research I kept seeing some E rated tires that had less max weight capacity then some D rated tires. I called Kenda and Falken on this and they gave me the same answer. This rating is a simple calculation based on rim size and other factors. For any given tire in the same model, the construction isn't different whether a D or an E. So the point is, if you're driving a 3/4 ton especially, if you like a "D" rated tire better than a similar "E" rated tire, just make sure the max weight capacity is in the range you want and you'll be fine.

"For the D rating, as long as the max load capacity covers your vehicle and any additional weight/towing, you won’t have a problem. I show the max load capacity on this size as 3,526 lbs. per tire. The Tire & Rim Association treats “flotation sizes” a bit differently than standard metric LT tires. Below is some additional info:

When high flotation tires were first introduced they were designed with high internal air volume but with low maximum inflation/load to be used for more off road applications. Where lower tire pressure gives an advantage."

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

We ordered a set of BFG KO2 33x12.5x18 for our Ford 7.3 gas today. We've got Toyo Open Country AT 2 on it currently, with about 33,000 miles on them. They are shot, and all of a sudden I've had 2 flats within a week.

I'm going to definitely run less pressure on this set, after reading this thread I think that may have been a factor on not getting more life out of the Toyo's. They have been aired up to 80 psi their whole life.

Look up the "chalk test" on Google. I watched a couple YT videos the other night, and doing this test will help you get your tires dialed in at the right pressure and may help you identify and diagnose any suspension wear issues that could be causing premature tire damage.

 

[TSAMP]

Right!? It was a single owner I bought from Diesels of Houston, and the owner Lee is incredible if anybody is looking for a pre-def diesel truck. He'll take every picture and video you want if you're interested and live a long ways away. He doesn't sell junk and replace parts that need replaced.

Anyways, previous owner musta liked the shorty tire look, but at least the wheels don't have the crazy offset that poke the tires out a mile. I hate that.

@TSAMP you reminded me of something. During my research I kept seeing some E rated tires that had less max weight capacity then some D rated tires. I called Kenda and Falken on this and they gave me the same answer. This rating is a simple calculation based on rim size and other factors. For any given tire in the same model, the construction isn't different whether a D or an E. So the point is, if you're driving a 3/4 ton especially, if you like a "D" rated tire better than a similar "E" rated tire, just make sure the max weight capacity is in the range you want and you'll be fine.

"For the D rating, as long as the max load capacity covers your vehicle and any additional weight/towing, you won’t have a problem. I show the max load capacity on this size as 3,526 lbs. per tire. The Tire & Rim Association treats “flotation sizes” a bit differently than standard metric LT tires. Below is some additional info:

When high flotation tires were first introduced they were designed with high internal air volume but with low maximum inflation/load to be used for more off road applications. Where lower tire pressure gives an advantage."

Makes sense. I got 285 70 r18s and the falken at4 was a C rating I think, but it weighed more than the E rated tire on its competitors. So I choose to go with the brand I had more experience with.

 

[Stache Attack]

Thanks for all the replies. I ended up going with the KO3s. Almost went with the Coopers but the price difference was slim and I like the look of the BFGs.

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I will be very interested in a 20k and 40k(if you make it) review. Your driving is similar maybe a bit less gravel. When I am hooked up I can’t get a set to go over 30,000.

 

[Marshfly]

We ordered a set of BFG KO2 33x12.5x18 for our Ford 7.3 gas today. We've got Toyo Open Country AT 2 on it currently, with about 33,000 miles on them. They are shot, and all of a sudden I've had 2 flats within a week.

I'm going to definitely run less pressure on this set, after reading this thread I think that may have been a factor on not getting more life out of the Toyo's. They have been aired up to 80 psi their whole life.

This is the right way to figure out the correct pressure when you don't run stock sizes or your weight varies a lot. The old school chalk test might work but it could just as easily be incorrect.

Just do the math. If your size isn't on there, email BFG and get the chart for your tire. But this chart is consistent across brands for same size and load index tires.

https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf

 

[displacedtexan]

Right!? It was a single owner I bought from Diesels of Houston, and the owner Lee is incredible if anybody is looking for a pre-def diesel truck. He'll take every picture and video you want if you're interested and live a long ways away. He doesn't sell junk and replace parts that need replaced.

Anyways, previous owner musta liked the shorty tire look, but at least the wheels don't have the crazy offset that poke the tires out a mile. I hate that.

I've heard really good things about them!

I think a lot of offset looks really good from certain angles... So I got a set. (cheap, used... Just in case.) They were off the truck in less than 2 weeks. Lol

Got some Methods with positive offset, 1" wider than the stocks, but the outer lip is only about 3/8" further out.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

This is the right way to figure out the correct pressure when you don't run stock sizes or your weight varies a lot. The old school chalk test might work but it could just as easily be incorrect.

Just do the math. If your size isn't on there, email BFG and get the chart for your tire. But this chart is consistent across brands for same size and load index tires.

https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf

Thanks for posting this, and the chalk test is still relevant, to your point when done correctly, to confirm equal application of pressure to the tire and to identify potential suspension issues on a specific vehicle.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

I've heard really good things about them!

I think a lot of offset looks really good from certain angles... So I got a set. (cheap, used... Just in case.) They were off the truck in less than 2 weeks. Lol

Got some Methods with positive offset, 1" wider than the stocks, but the outer lip is only about 3/8" further out.

Lee is great, best truck buying experience I've ever had, and he's hundreds of miles away.

Methods are sweet, and that offset is about perfect. For guys like us that use our trucks, the extreme offsets are really great at throwing mud, ROCKS, and slush all over the side and underneath your truck.

I got some mild fender flares en route, not the bold ones with fake bolts, but not the OEM style either. Hopefully between these and some decent Husky mud guards I can keep the rock chips under control. These mods and some PPF along rockers and other vulnerable areas.