2500 class truck

Weldor

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7.1 x 50 = 355 lbs.not much for a diesel 6.0 x 50 = 300lbs. for gas might make a difference. Not counting the weight of the tank, pumps etc.
 
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Going across NE one of these would've been really handy, because fuel ranged from 2.78-3.45/gallon on our last trip. A guy could always make sure to fill up on the most affordable gas when you have additional capacity. @16 mpg, 60 gallons of fuel would get me 960 miles. That would be freaking sweet.
 
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7.1 x 50 = 355 lbs.not much for a diesel 6.0 x 50 = 300lbs. for gas might make a difference. Not counting the weight of the tank, pumps etc.
The true auxiliary tanks plug into the fuel neck like a lift pump, so no extra pump, hoses, handles, etc... In fact, I wonder if a guy could just run a y off your lift pump return for the auxiliary tank to leverage the same fitting in the filler neck.
 

CorbLand

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Going across NE one of these would've been really handy, because fuel ranged from 2.78-3.45/gallon on our last trip. A guy could always make sure to fill up on the most affordable gas when you have additional capacity. @16 mpg, 60 gallons of fuel would get me 960 miles. That would be freaking sweet.
His wife is from Canada and still has family up there. He fills up before they cross the border so he doesnt have to fill up in Canada.
 
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I’m going back and forth between a GM 3500, larger springs and a Ford f450, those things have huge brakes and turn inside my K1500. The 450 would be diesel and 3500 gas. My problem with diesel is double the cost of everything and all the short trips to town.
 

Weldor

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I'm gonna shoot a note to Air Dog and see what they say.
doing the math, with my truck (31 gal. tank) at 22 mpg 44 gallons of diesel to run 960 compared 60 gallons to do the same at 16. That would be one stop to fill up vs non stop. No sure it is worth it for the cost of the tanks and hardware. JMHO. Carrying extra fuel with a mileage drop is worth looking into.
 

tdhanses

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The true auxiliary tanks plug into the fuel neck like a lift pump, so no extra pump, hoses, handles, etc... In fact, I wonder if a guy could just run a y off your lift pump return for the auxiliary tank to leverage the same fitting in the filler neck.
mine is just gravity fed into the fuel tank at the filler tube, has a ball valve to stop the flow when full. I added a shut off valve at the tank as well.
 
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Just

doing the math, with my truck (31 gal. tank) at 22 mpg 44 gallons of diesel to run 960 compared 60 gallons to do the same at 16. That would be one stop to fill up vs non stop. No sure it is worth it for the cost of the tanks and hardware. JMHO. Carrying extra fuel with a mileage drop is worth looking into.
I average 16.9 on our last trip and was using 16 to be conservative. I'm definitely jealous of your 22 mpg. Never gonna happen with this truck. ;)
 
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mine is just gravity fed into the fuel tank at the filler tube, has a ball valve to stop the flow when full. I added a shut off valve at the tank as well.
Right, and the lift pump return requires a similar fitting to be cut into the filler neck. I'd rather only have one fitting vs. two in the neck, so if I could add a Y to the lift pump return line for the auxiliary line that would be cool.
 

Marshfly

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I’m going back and forth between a GM 3500, larger springs and a Ford f450, those things have huge brakes and turn inside my K1500. The 450 would be diesel and 3500 gas. My problem with diesel is double the cost of everything and all the short trips to town.
That should be a pretty easy choice if you are honest about your towing/hauling usage. Either the 450 makes sense or gas makes sense.
 

Marshfly

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Roger that, and if my truck wasn't lifted and had stock wheels/tires it would do a little better. It was getting 13ish when I bought it.
Make sure you have the speedo calibrated. The AEV unit is the one to use. Don't get suckered into the Tazer. It has a habit of killing the ABS module.

Fixing the speedometer will allow the computer to do a better job with shift points and increase mileage more than you'd think. Doesn't make sense but it does. I was always presently surprised at what I saw once I got mine right on my Rams.
 
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I never worry about shorter trips with my F450 and 6.7 Powerstroke diesel....it's mostly just opinions and very little fact, especially with the new diesel emission set-ups. Just have a long trip of a few hundred miles or a heavy tow to make them work from time to time and you are just fine. There isn't a truck on the road that can do anything better than a F450. The highest and quickest resale value of any truck on the road as well.

As for Dodge Rams.....my 2003 Cummins 5.9 diesel has zero rust anywhere and at 111,000 miles nothing on it has worn out or been replaced except for the stock water pump this past Sunday. Replaced it with an aluminum billet high performance water pump from Bulletproof Diesel.
 
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I never worry about shorter trips with my F450 and 6.7 Powerstroke diesel....it's mostly just opinions and very little fact, especially with the new diesel emission set-ups
I'm not sure about this statement.

Short trips "tend" to create more build up in the DPF. As a result, REGEN frequency can increase. If you don't have a CTS or similar where you can initiate a stationary regen, it can be a pain in the butt for folks to take a drive at highway speeds for 15 minutes or longer to let the process complete. And you MUST let it complete or the problems can compound.
 

Snowwolfe

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Day to day average for my 7.3 is 13 mpg. That is running 45 miles to Anchorage on occasion and some around town errands.
If I remove the drive to Anchorage it drops to low 12's. Best I ever seen was 17 on a 300 mile trip where I purposely slowed down to 60 and coasted anytime I could.
 

FOS373

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IMO there is no reason to dick around with a 3/4 (2500) truck unless your state charges a lot more to register a 1 ton. Either version rides the same if you ignore the TP on the door jam sticker when not carrying a heavy load or towing.
If looking at Fords, Consider buying a F350 instead of the 250. They are the same basic truck with maybe one or two different parts on the rear suspension. They ride the same.
F350 is about $1100 more and brings a much higher resale value and is more desirable in the used market. They also have the door jam sticker with the higher payload ratings.
Although I have not read through all the posts, I would agree with this.

Don’t limit your self to 3/4 ton when a 1 ton is not much much more.

I have had two 6.7l Ford diesels and they have been reliable (one was totaled in an accident). Prior to that a 7.3l which was reliable, but when I test drove the 6.7l it was a game changer. Current is a 2019 with 70k miles that does towing in the Colorado mountains. Recently drove a friends 2023 Chevy duramax towing a skid steer in the mountains and was very comparable driving wise. (I am used to how I can up/down shift with the button on the Ford, which was bit trickier for me on the Chevy for me.)

Fords have the solid front axle, can’t remember when Chevy switched to IFS on their heavy duty trucks, as this may better for you.

Additionally, I switched to Denver progressive leaf springs to make my truck a little more compliant when not towing / hauling.
 

gburk

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All tue, and the one thing I would add is that deleting also positively affects longevity, especially if you want to keep the truck a really long time. Fewer moving parts, fewer electrical parts, fewer sensors, and much cleaner burn when you're not feeding exhaust, soot, and unburnt fuel back into the intake.

A couple good examples of what is lurking inside a Duramax with 180k miles. Notice the EGR ports are 75% constricted or more with soot and filth. The y-bridge is also restricted and full of garbage. I don't have a picture, but the turbos get fouled with oil vapor from the retarded factory PVC routing as well. Its amazing how many miles stock motors can go without a serious failure with all this crap.
Is there any word of the new administration EPA taking their boot off the throat of tuners and deleters? I’ve had a hard time finding anyone who still does it. Admittedly I don’t know any of the secret knocks or handshakes.

The power stroke is awesome but deleted is awesomer. ..
 
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Is there any word of the new administration EPA taking their boot off the throat of tuners and deleters? I’ve had a hard time finding anyone who still does it. Admittedly I don’t know any of the secret knocks or handshakes.

The power stroke is awesome but deleted is awesomer. ..
Most of the content online regarding deleting trucks is old, but still very relevant. There was a court decision that "may" ease some of the regulation and enforcement non-elected agencies like the EPA and ATF can employ in the future. However, we're probably still a long ways out.

If you're somewhat handy, watch videos from Dark Iron Diesel, Truckmasters, and Rust Belt Diesel on YT. These processes are all bolt off/on for the most part, but do require tuning in some cases. However, some things can be done to increase performance without tuning. For example, installing a free flowing cold air intake, turbo mouthpiece, and new hot and cold side intercooller pipes as well as a PCV reroute. On the L5P Duramax, the HSP CAI and new intercooler pipes delivered 40hp and 100ft. lbs. of torque as well as eliminated some parts prone to failure- namely factory boots between the pipes and intercooler and the turbo.

*Delete kits are still available online for sale. However, they are for offroad use only and buyers purchase and install at their own risk. Unless you live in Canada, it is illegal for shops to delete trucks and illegal for dealers to sell deleted trucks.
 
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