Fireflyfishing
WKR
@Cubby, I didn’t say it’s unusable nor is it imprecise. It is not durable…fact. I fill my freezers too…not using Hornady brass…or bullets for that matter.
I think was 2011 I got some decent groups with Hornady's GMX. I see they have a new one now. My 308 at the time liked them all sub moa at 100. Killed a cow bison with it ,worked like a champ.Me too but most of my hunting is out of state nowadays, so I haven't dabbled much with copper. My 3-4 attempts with copper bullets over the last 15 years has been frustrating.
I agree with this and follow the same policy.I think often people get mixed up on all the hype of great brass, for me I've shot lots of the hornady brass and it worked great for me but I don't hotrod any of my rifles just mild reloads to get the job done. I'm getting 5-6 reloads on the same brass. I'm willing to bet that a good amount of reloaders out there can't shoot well enough to tell the difference in brass IMO. If you already have winchester just sort out 50-100 pieces and go to town.
What primer are you using in this combo? Thanks108 eldm, h1000 or h4350, new lapua/starline/Peterson brass would be my starting point.
41.3 h4350 with the 108 in starline brass is a tack driver in my 1/8" twist tikka.
Cci200What primer are you using in this combo? Thanks
He said 1:8I’m not sure the 95 LRX will stabilize in many traditionally twisted 243s, make sure you’re barrel has enough twist for it.
I’d probably start fresh with lapua brass but your existing brass should work fine too. I wouldn’t mix and match headstamps. The lapua route just eliminates variables.
My favorite die setup for the money is Forster FL dies with necks custom honed to avoid overworking brass. You would need to figure out what loaded neck diameter is with lapua to have honed to the right dimension. I typically get Forster micrometer seating dies too because they are a fair bit cheaper than Redding.