2020 PSE Stealth Mach 1 best set up suggestions

[jeffaugustyn]

Hello Rockslide,
I've been reading Rockslide for a long time and finally decided to post a question. I'm asking if any of you that shoot a 2020 Stealth Mach 1 (RH 70#, 29.25" Draw length ,with the PBTS splitter. Black Eagle Rampage 300 spine with 100 grain tips and 60 grain half outs) have suggestions on the best way to tune it for the most forgiving set up. I've currently got it tuned through paper and good Bare Shaft with both cams shimmed all the way to the left with .010" spacers and the rest of the shims are on the right side. Center shot is about 13/16 from riser decal over Berger hole. Right side of split PBTS yoke needs twisted pretty good top and bottom with left side only has one twist each. Slight left cam lean at brace on top and bottom cam and same at full draw.....it shoots where I want it to hit, but I've got to have absolute perfect form to be anywhere close to shooting consistant( not ideal for hunting). Sorry for rambling, but I hope someone might confirm my set up or tell me "dude, you're nuts with that set up". Thanks for any responses anyone can provide

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I have the same bow with the original yoke splitters, 28.5 draw length, and 19 grains less weight up front on a 300 spine arrow that is 28.75 nock to carbon. So, our set ups are pretty close.

My first 2 seasons with the bow it was shimmed way left with centershot pretty far out, but as my form has improved (and I dropped draw length by a notch) I've been able to shim more towards the middle + move centershot in and still get consistent broadhead + field point impact at long range. Right now it's set up just like it was from the factory, one thin shim on the left and the rest on the right (right handed bow). Whatever you do - don't put the thick shim on the left and then pull back to full draw - the cables will miss the draw stop and you'll lock the bow up.

Definitely check for cable contact, the cable guard rotated twice on me early on, it's now heavily coated in blue loctite and has held for almost 2 years. I also greatly prefer the TAP titanium cable guard to the factory carbon rod.

If you're struggling with form consistency, it's probably not the bow's fault. More likely is your draw length, anchor, grip, or a combo thereof. There's so many ways to mess up an archery shot it's not even funny.

 

[jeffaugustyn]

I have the same bow with the original yoke splitters, 28.5 draw length, and 19 grains less weight up front on a 300 spine arrow that is 28.75 nock to carbon. So, our set ups are pretty close.

My first 2 seasons with the bow it was shimmed way left with centershot pretty far out, but as my form has improved (and I dropped draw length by a notch) I've been able to shim more towards the middle + move centershot in and still get consistent broadhead + field point impact at long range. Right now it's set up just like it was from the factory, one thin shim on the left and the rest on the right (right handed bow). Whatever you do - don't put the thick shim on the left and then pull back to full draw - the cables will miss the draw stop and you'll lock the bow up.

Definitely check for cable contact, the cable guard rotated twice on me early on, it's now heavily coated in blue loctite and has held for almost 2 years. I also greatly prefer the TAP titanium cable guard to the factory carbon rod.

If you're struggling with form consistency, it's probably not the bow's fault. More likely is your draw length, anchor, grip, or a combo thereof. There's so many ways to mess up an archery shot it's not even funny.

Thanks for responding...Im too have the TAP cable rod and string stop with a Hamskea Epsilon rest. Bow is great. I'm thinking about adding another .010" shim to the left giving me a total of .020" shims on left and the rest of them on the right so my center shot will move a little more towards the riser. My form is great when I think it out. Hard to do every time I've been messing with my draw length, trying to fine tune it to perfection using my Carter index release. I'm getting there, but some days are definitely better than others and I'm always tinkering with it. I'm hoping to get it set up perfect for me and then just lock it down and shoot and quit messing with it LOL!

 

[ResearchinStuff]

our set ups are super, super similar. i'm using a trinity and a carter like mike.

Have you made sure your limb sequence is correct?

 

[jeffaugustyn]

our set ups are super, super similar. i'm using a trinity and a carter like mike.

Have you made sure your limb sequence is correct?

I have them set to what my buddy at PSE told me: Top left is 115, Bottom left is 118, Top right is 120 and bottom right is 119...I hope this is correct?

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Looks good

 

[ResearchinStuff]

You might want to try setting it at 80% let off. That improved my accuracy a bunch over 85%.

 

[jeffaugustyn]

You might want to try setting it at 80% let off. That improved my accuracy a bunch over 85%.

I have it currently at 80% let off. I also like it best set there. Not much difference in holding, just feels a little more solid to me. Glad to see my limb sequence isn good! Thanks for all your suggestions. Nice talking with ya

 

[BigSky]

Have you made sure your limb sequence is correct?

Do you have a source for one to make this determination? I just acquired one of these. Heck, my limb numbers don't even match what was described above (115, 118, 119 and 120) as mine are 113, 114, 116 and 117. I assume they are in the correct location; but, I don't know how to confirm that. Thanks in advance.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I found the sequence on archery talk i think. the exact numbers don't matter, but the recommendation from PSE is apparently that the heaviest limbs (highest deflection number) be on the right hand side for a right-handed shooter. I have my weakest limb in the top left spot, strongest on the top right - so I know whatever I read said that was correct, but can't find it now.

your sequence sounds correct.

 

[BigSky]

So mine are as follows (I'm right handed); UL 113, LL 114, LR 116, UR 117. Based on your research, does that sound correct? I will continue to research it. Thanks in advance. To the OP, sorry for the slight drift; but, it will keep your thread up top.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

what you have matches me, i messed up my previous post. my right-handed 70# bow is set up and tuned well like this

left right
top 112 118
bottom 112 115

 

[jeffaugustyn]

Your limbs seem to be correctly positioned based on what I was told by PSE for a right hander...I seem to have a bit heavier limbs on my 70#'er based on what you guys have...

 

[Swampcruiser]

So mine are as follows (I'm right handed); UL 113, LL 114, LR 116, UR 117. Based on your research, does that sound correct? I will continue to research it. Thanks in advance. To the OP, sorry for the slight drift; but, it will keep your thread up top.

Yup that is all correct. The highest deflection (117) should be on the upper right to offset the induced lean from the cable slide then lower right is next 116.

 

[noroads]

I have them set to what my buddy at PSE told me: Top left is 115, Bottom left is 118, Top right is 120 and bottom right is 119...I hope this is correct?

That’s actually not correct. The spread is 4-7 for the top limbs and 2-3 for the bottom. So yours should be: TL 115 TR 119 BL 118 BR

I’ve found shimming the evolve cams at brace, they like equal lean top and bottom. So lay an arrow on cable side of cams top and bottom and see if they meet dead on at the D loop(shim the cam that is leaning the most and if your not getting perfect flight). That’s usually the best starting point and then I can micro tuneif needed.

Center shot is when the rest aligns the arrow dead down the center of the limb pockets when looking from above. I like to use a long stabilizer to make centering the arrow easier when looking at from the top of the bow. I don’t get carried away on a specific number because it’s not set in stone. Could be 13/16 dead on but most likely around 7/8-15/16 on Evolve bows.

 

[jeffaugustyn]

That’s actually not correct. The spread is 4-7 for the top limbs and 2-3 for the bottom. So yours should be: TL 115 TR 119 BL 118 BR

I’ve found shimming the evolve cams at brace, they like equal lean top and bottom. So lay an arrow on cable side of cams top and bottom and see if they meet dead on at the D loop(shim the cam that is leaning the most and if your not getting perfect flight). That’s usually the best starting point and then I can micro tuneif needed.

Center shot is when the rest aligns the arrow dead down the center of the limb pockets when looking from above. I like to use a long stabilizer to make centering the arrow easier when looking at from the top of the bow. I don’t get carried away on a specific number because it’s not set in stone. Could be 13/16 dead on but most likely around 7/8-15/16 on Evolve bows.

This doesn't surprise me. I've been messing with my Bow since I asked this question. I have the limb sequence the same as I posted, as per PSE told me, however, I found that shimming the cams more towards center rather than pushed all the way to the left made a big difference! My Cam lean is now what you've stated. Slight lean on top and bottom so a bare shaft laid on side left side of cam(right handed bow) passes through D loop for both cams. Finally got rid of weird tears and got bare shafts hitting perfect! Yesterday was a good day!

 

[jeffaugustyn]

This doesn't surprise me. I've been messing with my Bow since I asked this question. I have the limb sequence the same as I posted, as per PSE told me, however, I found that shimming the cams more towards center rather than pushed all the way to the left made a big difference! My Cam lean is now what you've stated. Slight lean on top and bottom so a bare shaft laid on side left side of cam(right handed bow) passes through D loop for both cams. Finally got rid of weird tears and got bare shafts hitting perfect! Yesterday was a good day!

One more thing is I got center shot to line up at 13/16 dead down center of Bow. Arrow out front splits limb bolts when looking down!

 

[noroads]

One more thing is I got center shot to line up at 13/16 dead down center of Bow. Arrow out front splits limb bolts when looking down!

Nice, good to hear. The Mach 1 is a phenomenal bow IMO. I also 90% of the time have to shim at least one cam over to the right so that is normal. With the newer Mach 34, Levitates etc. they seem to have better cam spacing right out of the box plus the new EZ220 shim system is so much easier.

 

[jeffaugustyn]

Nice, good to hear. The Mach 1 is a phenomenal bow IMO. I also 90% of the time have to shim at least one cam over to the right so that is normal. With the newer Mach 34, Levitates etc. they seem to have better cam spacing right out of the box plus the new EZ220 shim system is so much easier.

I've had it for over a year , and once I figured it 's tuning quirks out(since local shop couldn't, LOL!) I love it ! Great Bow! I'm a bit partial to PSE's anyway as I have three other older ones too...I kinda learned "modern Bowhunting" with them about 12 years ago since shooting a Bear White Tail in the early 80's