2005 Tacoma A/C Help!

[ElkNut1]

Guys I have a 2005 Tacoma 4X4. My A/C went out a month ago, I figured it just needed some A/C Pro so bought some & refilled. Problem was I added 20 .0z but at no time did the gauge on the dispenser go up! I thought maybe gauge wasn't working so this is why I filled it! When I tried to fill it the clutch kicks in for a couple seconds then stops & has a low whine to it. I haven't added anymore additive & even wonder now if it wasn't out & now is too full?


Anyway, it still does not work & the clutch does spin for a few seconds then stops & whines. I've youtube it & there hasn't been anything to date that has shed any light on my possible issue, they just show how to install fluids. I'm asking here because I really like doing all my own stuff to my rigs. If anyone has any insight on possible relay switches or other that may be the issue please let me know! Thank You!

ElkNut/Paul

 

[Tod osier]

No help, but ours went on our 2007 taco and did the same thing. I don't know the details since it was under warranty at the time (big help - right?). I haven't heard that is a common problem, but I haven't researched it.

 

[ElkNut1]

Tod, thanks, I've researched it quite a bit & the only thing that was mentioned was if you get that stop & go clutch action along with the whine that it's most likely the relay switch in the fuse box. I replaced it with a new one & it made no difference! Thanks bud! Still scratching my head! (grin)

ElkNut/Paul

 

[Tod osier]

At least you have all winter to get it done! Ours went on a road trip in 90 degree heat at the end of a long day, but only 45 minutes from home.

 

[ElkNut1]

Ha Ha, I know what you mean! I was in Boise at near 100 deg, it sucked! (grin) Thanks!

ElkNut/Paul

 

[IdahoBeav]

I recommend joining tacomaworld.com and starting a thread. There are some very knowledgeable people on there.

Best of luck

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Stickbow]

Hey there, I have an 07 tacoma that had a very similar issue. I believe often it is a clutch assembly in the compressor system that quits, there is a bearing that is prone to failure. Unfortunately it is simpler/cheaper to get a new compressor than replacing the clutch assy. If you replace the compressor it requires flushing and refilling the AC system. I have to admit I took mine to a trusted mechanic...

 

[Mischief209]

Jump the wire that goes to the compressor. It should be a 2 wire plug. Stick a wire or couter pin in the connection and connect both sides. This will override the relay and kick the clutch on. See if clutch engages and stays on. The compressor had a low pressure switch that kicks off the compressor. When filling a car that has low pressure and the clutch won't engage you have to jump the connection to engage compressor and then you pump Freon in. You might be still to low to engage compressor.

 

[Whitetaildown215]

I agree try jumping the low pressure switch. I have also seen where the high pressure switch has caused this where it is creating to much pressure and kicking it out. However I'm not sure if yours has one I'm comparing this statement to the semi world that I deal with a/c on everyday. Most of the time though when you get the whine on them and the compressor stops moving like that it's the bearings in the clutch has gone out or the compressor itself has gone bad. Like I said though I'm comparing this to a semi but most systems are the same. I would try jumping the switches first though instead of breaking down to buy a new compressor.

 

[ElkNut1]

Thanks guys! Mischief, you may be on to something! I do know that I've never heard the bearing whine at all until it stopped working & I added new freon. I'm pretty savvy towards mechanic stuff so would have noticed a bearing going out. This happened out of nowhere! Too, when clutch is engaged there is no whine, the whine starts the second the clutch stops & the whine starts as if it's spinning something inside housing & it's refusing to spin creating the friction or whine! Maybe this piece of info may help? I really appreciate the thoughts so far, thank you!

ElkNut/Paul

 

[blake_mhoona]

mine goes out all the time. if you hit the metal hump on the passenger floorboard it'll kick back on. the tacomas were prone to sucking up debris and getting into the fan. i've found loads of leaves and pinestraw in mine before.

basically put your hand in the floor board and hit up towards the glove box. theres a round metal thing. hit that

 

[ElkNut1]

Blake, are you referring to the A/C or heater? I'm not sure what you are saying here? Too, I don't see the hump you are talking about? Thanks!

ElkNut/Paul

 

[Mischief209]

Hard to say what the whine is, my guess would be the clutch bearing is going out. Its probably the noise you hear when the compressor is not engaged. Likley rattling arou d. But under load is straightens out and no noise is emitted? This is just a theory.

Jump that switch and see if you can get compressor on and stay on. If it stays on check Freon psi. You only get a correct reading when the compressor is on. If its low add some and that will likely fix the problem. If you have enough freon, (not to much either, there is a sweet spot) then you have a relay out or the switch in the cab. Bump around under the dash like stated above and it could wiggle free the relay. You can check for power at the compressor also and if you got power and you know u have enough Freon the. Compressor is bad.

Sorry for the ramble, things kept popping in my head as I typed and it was to late to go back using a phone.

 

[Mischief209]

1 other thing. If it is a bad compressor, buy the whole kit. Don't skimp on this because if 1 of those cheap parts get clogged and or broke. You waste a lot of Freon, unless you pay to have it recovered. Also very bad for the environment from what I'm told. The kit is a compressor, receiver dryer, orifice filter tube, and all new o-rings. Not a lot of cash extra but can save you a bunch down the road.

 

[Whitetaildown215]

Like mischief said get everything and don't skimp. Most places won't warranty a compressor if you don't replace the dryer and orifice tube and it doesn't cost that much more.

 

[WhiteOak]

The compressor has a low pressure shutoff switch, if the compressor starts and then pumps down to a low enough pressure because refrigerant is low it will automatically shut off to avoid freezing or running dry as oil circulates with the refrigerant. With you saying the gauge never moved once you hooked up the bottle makes me think you actually never recharged your system. Does the bottle feel empty now? Whenever possible you want to weigh the amount of refrigerant you are putting in, Wal-Mart is convenient but by no means do they have a cure all. The quick connect fitting could be bad and you may not actually be charging your system. Also there should be a high pressure cut off and your compressor will cut out to avoid high head pressure and overheating or popping a line. At this point I would say recover refrigerant/empty(although venting is illegal) and recharge to mfr spec weighing the refrigerant so you know exactly how much is in your system. Alternitavly if you do not own a set of a.c. gauges witch automotive adapters and a recovery tank and scale your best bet may just be to bring it In for a recharge. Fyi is there is a automotive or hvac tech school in your area and you know a student or teacher they will most likely do it for free as a lesson for the class. Hope this helps.

 

[WhiteOak]

Also your high or low pressure cutout switches could be bad. The low pressure switch will be on the suction side of the compressor and most likely be a blue switch with 2 stake on connectors the high pressure switch will be on the discharge side of the compressor and may be red with 2 wires going to it. You can jump out these switches and if your compressor keeps running you either have a bad switch or have low or high pressure. If this does not make sense to you take it in don't cart with wires and jumping out switches unless you understand electricity and are comfortable with it it may cost you much more than taking it to a trusted mechanic

 

[ElkNut1]

Whiteoak, I do understand the reasoning for 'jumping' the wires to get a direct contact thus bypassing the relay switch/switches! I had 2 - 12.oz cans of refrigerant, one was bone dry after installed the other was 3/4 gone. Under the hood where it mentions how many grams or ounces to install it shows 20-oz. I've applied this refrigerant on many vehicles in the past with no issues so am familiar with its use. -- I appreciate your description on the blue & red connectors identifying their purpose. I did read about them in past research but had not tried it yet but I will! (grin)


If push comes to shove I will take it in but I hate too, I'm one of those guys who just do not trust shops! (grin) I do everything I can to do it all myself sorta like my hunting! (grin) I feel if they can do it then so can I! Thank you for the help, this helps a lot!

ElkNut/Paul

 

[blake_mhoona]

mine just went out again this morning.

where the plastic from the passenger side goes down and turns to metal in the floor board. just hit up on the metal with an open hand on the metal. thats where the fan is. its been a while but with a few screws you can disassemble the fan and see how much trash is in it

the fan is/has been the problem with mine. compressor and a/c have always been fine

 

[WhiteOak]

ElkNut I hear ya I absolutely hate taking anything to a mechanic there are very few things I won't do myself, and am always skeptical of being raked over the coals. This is why for the a.c. issue it may be worth it to take it to a trade school(if that is even an option around you) as they have nothing to gain but a learning experience for the students at the very least a recovery and recharge then possible troubleshoot if that does not work, just buy the class donuts and you may be in luck.
Before the compressor stopped operating normally how was the a.c. was it blowing cold or was it getting less efficient. Also does the wine sound like pressured gas at all? if it is cutting out on high pressure it could be the gas equalizing back through the compressor, could the whine be a hiss possibly? Let's guess the sound