2 man tipi- ish

Beendare

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Something like this is going to be my next project- after a couple of honey do’s.
The goals are to be comfortable for 2 big guys, sturdy, light. Im shooting for about 3#~ this should be close with RSBTR mtn sil.

The walls on my 13’ tipi are a tad short- maybe a foot tall,

Im using the eve to install vents- this works great on my other one though i dont need as many- only a few. Im thinking i will extend these eves more than 4”, maybe 6” or 8”- shown here with 4”

Any thoughts on centering the pole vs this? It seems like it leaves a little more room if it’s offset but not as strong as a true centered design.

Does the sagging on these big sections bother you guys?
Do you guys running the pyramids have issues with that?
It bugs me though its easy to retension when cold. My 12 Sider isn’t bad, this 10 sider will have a couple big sections of fabric a little over 4 feet wide.
( design copyrighted, use by permission only)

I dont have the 2 roof vents or stove jack shown.CAC60C03-7F72-462B-B63A-FE8FB31C0344.jpeg935A2125-B7A8-4C09-9315-886A02521FDF.jpeg

Still tinkering, any critique welcomed.
 
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Beendare

Beendare

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The underside is shown with 2 large mats for scale 76”x26”and my stove. This thing might be getting a little too big since i wont lose much space on edges with walls.
 

bhylton

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i think the walls will be key. ive wanted to add about 1ft walls to my bpwd luna 4 for some time. i designed arrow shaft poles to hold the sides vertical.if i ever do it, it will be a palace. If i understand your plan and your putting vents at the junction of the wall and roof, thats a great idea. should really cut back on condensation.

I would think you could run a shorter eve on the steeper pitched roof area and still get good coverage on the vents.
 
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Beendare

Beendare

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i think the walls will be key. ive wanted to add about 1ft walls to my bpwd luna 4 for some time. i designed arrow shaft poles to hold the sides vertical.if i ever do it, it will be a palace. If i understand your plan and your putting vents at the junction of the wall and roof, thats a great idea. should really cut back on condensation.

I would think you could run a shorter eve on the steeper pitched roof area and still get good coverage on the vents.


Yeah, as the tipi guys know, condensation can be a biotch. I have vents just under the walls of my current tipi and have had zero issues- so your comment is right on the money...it works.

The trade off is more fabric/sewing to do the eves. I think the way I have it at 4" is too short. It leave a fair amount of wall exposed too. So in the high wind areas I've hunted that won't be optimal.

BTW, I fully expect this eve with vents thing to be copied , is what it is...but you saw it here first. /grin- No way to patent it that I know of.

I think I'm going to design a little taller version thats only 8.5'-9' wide...same length...about 11'.

Anyone have thoughts on putting a slightly curved radius [convex] on the outer hem? It seems to me that it will help with sagging between seams. Should have done this on my last one.

Maybe better to just go with 12 sides...as this made for very little waste when managing fabric on my last one.

The same goes for a catenary roof seam...this should help with sag...but a lot of you have these Ti Goat and SL5s that are cut like this- and i've seen those sag between seams.


I didn't do a cat cut on my other tipi trying to keep as much usable floor space on the perimeter as possible. This was one of my big gripes with the SL5...the perimeter was not usable space where the tipi swoops down...but the walls in this design will mitigate that.

Anyway, just thinking out loud...it doesn't appear many guys are that interested but it helps me to compose my thoughts.
 
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That looks awesome and will be a palace for two dudes.
What about adding some tieouts to the seems about 1/3 up from the wall/side junction? Not for use all the time but if there is a convenient tree next to it you could tie off to and prevent any sag.
 

Tailz190

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This idea is pretty sweet! Are you concerned about the wall and eve area catching wind and turning your shelter into a parachute - I’m not hating just curious


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Beendare

Beendare

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That looks awesome and will be a palace for two dudes.
What about adding some tieouts to the seems about 1/3 up from the wall/side junction? Not for use all the time but if there is a convenient tree next to it you could tie off to and prevent any sag.

Yeah I have gone back and forth on the tie out idea utilizing those like the Kifaur Sawtooth design to make a shelter with more usable space. Its still a thought to go that route.

I have tieouts on my current 13' dia tipi. Those seams are 10'6" long and I've had that tipi in 60 mph winds in Alaska and didn't even use the tieouts. These tipis really shed the wind .
These roof seams would be about 8' according- makes things easy. to my trusty Sketchup...so unless I was doing something to integrate the tieout into the shape...I won't need them unless i have huge sections of fabric between seams.

BTW, that Sketchup is awesome. Not only will it design the shelter, but you can calc out all of the pieces and patterns you need

..
 
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Beendare

Beendare

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This idea is pretty sweet! Are you concerned about the wall and eve area catching wind and turning your shelter into a parachute - I’m not hating just curious

Yeah, its a good question...I am worried about that.

The tipis could be the most effective design for strong wind there is IME....but these walls will catch some wind. The wind cant get the tipi to concave in from catching the wind [assuming its a fairly tight pitch] but these walls might.

I don't plan on using this one for Kodiak, the AK peninsula like that- I would use my other one.....but who knows? I think this one will be lower 48 and pitched in somewhat sheltered spots.
 

VernAK

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Not a lightweight but my Robens Fairbanks [Denmark] has some of these design features and more. The short wall with eve tie-off is a design I wish USA Tipi makers would incorporate. The Robens Green Cone also has some unique tie-offs.
 
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Beendare

Beendare

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Not a lightweight but my Robens Fairbanks [Denmark] has some of these design features and more. The short wall with eve tie-off is a design I wish USA Tipi makers would incorporate. The Robens Green Cone also has some unique tie-offs.

_______

Hey Vern...thanks for bursting my bubble...I thought this was unique /grin, kidding
I added a link below to those.
https://www.campingworld.co.uk/en/us/Robens-Fairbanks-Tipi-Outback-Tent-2019/m-19258.aspx

side note; they have wind tested their design to 100mph- impressive

I had not seen this before....looks to be a good design...do you own one?

So some quick conversions on the Robens; 185cm is 6' tall, 235cm is 7'6" long. They are claiming sleeps 4 but of course we know how that works. 7'6" seems short to me....BUT what I've found with my other tipi with the short walls, every sq inch is usable.
My SL5 had what appeared to be a huge footprint...something like 10' as I recall...when in actuality you lose a good 18" or more all the way around the perimeter- so its effectively a lot smaller.

Of course I will have to study this and steal any features I deem necessary....../grin

I'm scaling back my wall height as we speak. I'm thinking effective wall about 16"-18" The robins has a radiuses hem, no doubt that tensions the middle of the fabric. I should have done that on my first one

That breathable fabric is enticing...until you see its 9.1Kg, 20 pounds...that aint going to work, I need this for backpacking!

..

..
 

VernAK

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Beendare,

As I stated, this is not a replacement for my Hilleberg but on our extended canoe trips we needed something that set up quickly but was bug and wind resistant. The weight didn't bother us for this purpose. Yes....I have one!

You are on track with the low wall as it really adds to space. We use a 12 Man Kifaru for moose camp and there is a lot of wasted space around the perimeter . The Robens is listed as 4 man but it's perfect for two and gear. The wall is a feature needed in other tipis as the extra usable space would more than compensate for the weight and the tie-outs at above ground add to wind capabilities.

The workmanship in the Roben tents is incredible.......

I have an old half width 4 Dog Titanium in the shed and I'm considering a stove pipe flashing in the vestibule area.

The aluminum pole is incredible.....ya have to see it to believe it.

In the video on the website, they use an airboat to wind test the tents........a true multipurpose boat.
 

VernAK

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Beendare,

While researching tipi construction you might want to look at:
Luxe Megahorn
Luxe Octopeak
Tentipi Safir 9CP Nordic.

There might be some feature that catches your attention.

The Europeans have picked up on Tipis.
 

WoodBow

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Have you built a tipi with a vertical wall before? It seems like we have had this conversation before but maybe not. I planned a similar structure at one point. Seemed like a great idea until someone pointed out that you are actually giving up a bunch of square footage by not just making the angled walls longer. We stuff all of our gear into that small space at the bottom. Our brains sure like the idea of a vertical wall for some reason.

You will need about twice as man stakes and it seems like a real pain to get it pitched right. That tent linked has a bath tub floor so that makes pitching it much easier because you just stretch it tight and stake.

I do think the eve vents will work great.

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Beendare

Beendare

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Yeah, the tipi I built a few years ago has a wall section I put in with velcro around the entire perimeter as I wasn't sure I would like it. I love it!

Contrary to your comments the wall give you a lot more usable space. The eve vents in my 13' tipi have cut the horrible condensation I had with my SL5 to only a little in the worst possible conditions. With that SL5, the condensation was non stop and soaked anything even close to the perimeter of the tipi.

The only time I didn't have a problem with the SL5 was if I pitched it a foot high off the ground....but then you might as well have a tarp, IMO.

I think I have my design....but back burner for now. Its a little smaller and a little taller than the last, still 10 sides [ a little lighter] a 24" piece of wall fabric which will give me anywhere between 12" wall and 18" with some sod barrier. I still need to map the dimensions and angles for the pieces in Sketchup to check how it works for managing the 63" wide fabric for waste....it might make sense to go 12 sides.
 

VernAK

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I'm listening Beendare!

I have thoughts along the same line.......a 6"-12" sod cloth skirt folded to inside so a removable floor can be added or adjusted for the stove etc........easy way to clean also.......my floorless tipi gets dusty after a week of running the stove.

I have both types of tipi and both work quite well or even very well for my purpose but after using the 12 man Kifaru for 13 years, I would make a few modifications.......mid wall tie-outs being number one. Condensation handling would be next on the list.
 

WoodBow

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What am i missing?
5b133105238df3ca71e2c93c0daaf490.jpg


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Beendare

Beendare

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Wood, your drawing doesn't illustrate my concept- its off base.

You have the pyramid going all the way to the ground....and a large eve- thats silly.

My tipi [and this design] is raised- see my drawings above to see where your assumption is wrong.

My eve is only about 4" from the outer hem. Its just enough to protect slim wall vents....you actually gain usable space due to the added height.


If you have used that outer perimeter space in your tipi, then you know that area gets wet. I've been in 3 tipis besides the one I made- Kifaru, TiGoat and SL%- all of those were the same when it came to condensation on the edges. The need for the liners or nests just shows the flaw in the initial design. No doubt your tipi has the same problems.

Incorporating vents in that short wall section under the eve has given me more flexibility with venting and condensation.....it works.
 

WoodBow

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Im not saying it won't work. I feel certain it will. And i feel certain there is nothing i could say to sway you from your design. Nor is that my intent. I am only trying to point out what steered me away from doing something similar. I did not misunderstand your drawing. My drawing represented only square footage difference between a traditional tipi design and yours. Obviously your eve does not go to the ground. I have found that pulling the walls out on shelters to get them more vertical can be robbing peter to pay paul because you dont get that extra usable space for free. You pay for it in height. To not pay for it, you design to allow it. Which means extra fabric.

Honestly i have had very little condensation in my tipi. It has a generous ridge vent and we seem to always have some gaps at the bottom due to unlevel ground. So it drafts well enough it seems. We are running 3 guys in a 15 foot diameter tipi. We hunt colorado and NM. Like i said, i think your vents will work really well. And i totally see how you believe you are getting more "usable" square footage. I made another sketch to maybe clarify what i am trying to say. Should be clear as mud. The measurements shown are just what this drawing measures for comparison of total wall length. It represents a tipi that with a trad wall would be 11 foot 4 inches in diameter and 5 foot 8 inches tall. With a wall similar to yours it would be 9 foot 4 inches in diameter. The vertical wall is 12 inches and the eve is 4 inches. All the sizes are just random because i just drew the tipi and then drew a 12" wall and used the measurement of that to calculate the scale of everything else.

These walls are 45 degrees. There is a 4" difference in total fabric length used for a wall with the trad wall being shorter.

b562cea086e2144be20f5a374d727ad7.jpg


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