1st (ever) 100 yard group

[Hokkaido]

After reading all this stuff I thought I would give it a try too.
View attachment 55022 My first group at 100. My tallest pin is 80, very interesting how much drop happens in that last ten yards.

This is a great 80 yard group the other day with me holding the broadhead and pointing to where it hit.
View attachment 55023

 

[Desk Jockey]

I don't know man.......even in the second pic they look askew to me. The top one looks good, but the others look flat and/or ... What causes larger groups is inconsistent arrow flight (possibly even bad arrows) and form flaws compounded the further they fly.

Not to derail but someone told me tune issues are less apparent at longer ranges, apart from the inaccuracy they impart, because the arrows settle in and reduce tune imposed yaw and other erratic flight behavior with the greater distance. Sounds like I am the victim of some bro science.

 

[Brendan]

That's probably the bag target, not the arrow flight. The ones at my range give the arrows all sorts of messed entry angles to the point that you cannot tune based on angle. Vanes would also clean up any flight issues the further down range you go unless you had something seriously wrong.

 

[camping1601]

I've seen guys with 20 yrd groups like that.
I wish I could get 100 out of my rig.
Either way keep up the good work and be careful. I've found with myself and a small target I want to punch the trigger at far distances where my pin float is all over the place.

 

[ontarget7]

Long range is a blast
Keep at it and your confidence will gain. So many factors when shooting long range with a bow. Way more things to consider than a rifle to be accurate.
This is where you hone in on breathing, sight alignment, anchor consistency, back tension consistency, same consistency with any facial pressure ( little is best ), grip consistency, knowing when things aren't right whether its bow related or archer related, subconsciously picking up your bubble reading and still maintaining primary focus on target etc

Good job !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[5MilesBack]

I've got to be honest......I've never shot a bag target, so have no idea how they affect arrows. I don't think I'd like bag targets.

 

[FlyGuy]

I've got to be honest......I've never shot a bag target, so have no idea how they affect arrows. I don't think I'd like bag targets.

It is an old, fairly shot up bag target too; so very highly likely that is contributing to knock angles. I will be shooting foam for BH soon so I'll make sure to pay more attention to the knock angles. Moving back into our house this week (pipe in attic failed while on vacation 6 weeks ago, it's been a challenging summer) and I leave on Thursday for a scouting trip to WY, so it will be at least late next week before I can get back to shooting any distance past 30 yards (max backyard range). Thanks for all the input.

Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

 

[aeasley10]

I don't know man.......even in the second pic they look askew to me. The top one looks good, but the others look flat and/or left right. It might be an illusion, but I would definitely be checking the tune. If those nock angles are off, you can make up some big gains in accuracy with a tune fix. You still have to shoot well, but at least you'd know the arrows were all flying straight. What's your BH shooting look like at 60 compared to your FP's? It's worth the effort to at least verify that you got your equipment perfect to start with.

Shooting 100 isn't that much different than shooting 60 or even 20 quite frankly. You draw back, anchor, settle in, and put the right pin on the right spot and release, no matter the distance. What causes larger groups is inconsistent arrow flight (possibly even bad arrows) and form flaws compounded the further they fly.

I think you are not considering pin movement at that distance. More movement equals bigger groups plain and simply. Holding steady is just tougher at extreme distance. An inch of movement could be a foot POI downrange. Finer tuning always helps but only part of the equation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[aeasley10]

Not to derail but someone told me tune issues are less apparent at longer ranges, apart from the inaccuracy they impart, because the arrows settle in and reduce tune imposed yaw and other erratic flight behavior with the greater distance. Sounds like I am the victim of some bro science.

That's false and just defies logic & physics.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MtnHunter]

Great shooting out to 100! It's such a great feeling to drop them in there at that yardage. Shooting beyond my comfort zone has helped improve my accuracy immensely as well!

 

[Brendan]

That's false and just defies logic & physics.

Actually - no, it's not necessarily false. Same reason that you can have a paper tear up close, but the vanes stabilize the arrow (on a different vector) and get rid of the tear the further away from the bow you get. You should not be seeing an arrow hit at any angle as you get far enough from the bow if you have adequate vanes / stabilization (and assuming you have a target that doesn't deflect it as it enters like a bag target).

Now, if you're using a bare shaft, what you're saying is correct as flight problems get worse the further you go, not better....

 

[awaldro7]

Good shooting! Long range archery is a blast. Add some party ballons for fun next time.

 

[ontarget7]

Actually - no, it's not necessarily false. Same reason that you can have a paper tear up close, but the vanes stabilize the arrow (on a different vector) and get rid of the tear the further away from the bow you get. You should not be seeing an arrow hit at any angle as you get far enough from the bow if you have adequate vanes / stabilization (and assuming you have a target that doesn't deflect it as it enters like a bag target).

Now, if you're using a bare shaft, what you're saying is correct as flight problems get worse the further you go, not better....

To much vane in windy conditions can cause the arrow to enter at an angle down range.

Testing quite a few combos this year in the wind is one of the reasons I have switched things up a little


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Brendan]

To much vane in windy conditions can cause the arrow to enter at an angle down range.

Testing quite a few combos this year in the wind is one of the reasons I have switched things up a little

True - but what I wrote above still holds. I know I've seen tears go away as distance goes up and the arrow stabilizes - I'm sure you have too.

 

[5MilesBack]

True - but what I wrote above still holds. I know I've seen tears go away as distance goes up and the arrow stabilizes - I'm sure you have too.

Sure, but by that time the arrow is already off it's line.

I shot 3D with a guy a few years ago who's arrow was fishtailing so badly that he'd miss left one target, and right the next depending on what sequence the arrow's fishtail was in. You could watch the arrows all the way to the target.......left/right/left/right.

 

[Brendan]

Sure, but by that time the arrow is already off it's line.

I shot 3D with a guy a few years ago who's arrow was fishtailing so badly that he'd miss left one target, and right the next depending on what sequence the arrow's fishtail was in. You could watch the arrows all the way to the target.......left/right/left/right.

Completely agree - that's why I mentioned stabilizing on a different vector / line a couple posts up. But it still holds - it can be harder to see tune issues at longer distances when vanes are involved unless you have something really extreme going on like the fishtailing / porpoising you mentioned.

(EDIT - Making sure I'm clear - It can be harder to see tune issues when looking at just arrow angle, paper tears as distance goes up when you have vanes. Bare shaft tuning and Broadhead tuning on the other hand get easier to see issues as distance increases)

Personally - this is why I bare shaft tune first, then check for fletching contact, then verify / broadhead tune last.

 

[ontarget7]

Depends on ability
I can tell right away if I'm out of tune, even at the longer distances

Once bareshaft tune is money, your Broadheads will follow suite with no adjustments needed.

Others may differ but I never have to broadhead tune


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FlyGuy]

That's what we're all here for. And threading arrows through small openings and shooting in tight spots will make you a better archer for sure. At a range I used to shoot at we'd have to wait until no one was there and then shoot from the far end of the parking lot to get out to 130. And with only 7 pins I'd have to use branches from the trees along the range as an elevation aiming point to reach the targets. But even with that, as long as you have a consistent place to put your pin on it can be very accurate.

Ok. Back from WY now, snuck out at lunch and shot BH at 50 yards (max distance at this location. Basically the BH are shooting well right of tips. 1st two arrows missed the target right. I really don't know how to tune, but moved my sight in a little, then moved my rest a little... trying to bring them into center. Right now my tips are hitting a little left at 50 but grouped pretty well. BH are still right and not nearly as tight. See pic.

FT are the 3 left of center. The BH are top and bottom right and one was a complete miss right. Didn't want to keep moving my FT further from center so I stopped here.

These are 125gr German Kinetics. I also have a pack of 125gr grave digger coc hybrids to shoot, but forgot to put them in the truck so maybe shoot them tomorrow.

Is this a common problem? What should I do next? If the hybrids shoot well tomorrow do I just drop the GK and call it good? If they don't, what adjustments should I look to do next? I've only shot for 2 seasons now and never shot anything but mechanicals unroll now so this is all pretty new to me.

Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk

 

[jmez]

That is very common with BH's. What bow and do you have a press?

 

[FlyGuy]

That is very common with BH's. What bow and do you have a press?

Halon (last year, not the 32) with 6" brace. No press, scared I'll destroy something or lose an appendage!

What else... 28.5" draw. 66lbs. Arrows are gold tip kenetic Pierce 340 with 125gr heads, 442 total weight.

Sent from my SM-G610F using Tapatalk