1911’s in general, 9mm versions specifically

@43.6N Thank you for the detailed responses. Might snag one of them tools next time I'm making an order somewhere.

The EB magwell comes in a 25 LPI option (on backorder), but I'm not seeing the golf ball dimple (Chainlink) in blued and honestly prefer the consistency of the LPI with my el-cheapo front strap on the Garrison. I'll probably be snagging that along with the safety when it's back in stock.
 
@43.6N Thank you for the detailed responses. Might snag one of them tools next time I'm making an order somewhere.

The EB magwell comes in a 25 LPI option (on backorder), but I'm not seeing the golf ball dimple (Chainlink) in blued and honestly prefer the consistency of the LPI with my el-cheapo front strap on the Garrison. I'll probably be snagging that along with the safety when it's back in stock.
@WhoGarrDen
Opticsplanet has them in stock and there's a coupon code for 14% off
 
I missed this post while I was crying in my cheerios over my broken extractor. Always appreciate the in depth insights.

Now from my own experience I could see why woman and new shooters have always shot 45 auto 1911’s objectively better than 9mm other pistols.
As a kid shooting multiple pistols side by side - I always shot a 1911 much better across a range of DA/SA, striker fired, and revolvers. 22 with a dot was the only handgun I shot better. I always attributed it to trigger, that 1911 had a pretty decent trigger - but having shot many of those pistols again more recently, it is definitely more than that.
For what ever reason I got a Glock when I turned 21, a Gen 3 23, talk about taking a wrong turn. Glocks and 40s were the hotness then I guess.
I'm glad I came across this thread and gave 1911's another serious look.

The myth of the 45 auto being such a man stopper isn’t from the 45: it’s from the 1911. If WWI and WWII had been with a 9mm 1911, it would be called the greatest man stopping pistol cartridge in history.
sooo much Fuddlore in those family shooting get togethers "the 45 will knock you down if it hits you in the thumb" sort of thing. That group of uncles were also objectively impressed with a Taurus Judge.... Fun times though.
 
How does somebody evaluate if a 1911 is worth keeping? I have a Kimber 9mm from the era when they were known for poor quality. FTE frequently. Still learning how to tune an extractor and haven’t spent much time learning to lube it until recently. I also don’t know how many rounds it has fired. It was given to me used from a family member who doesn’t shoot much. It might still be in the break in phase that Kimber manuals mention.

One thought is to replace the extractor, buy some CherryBalmz and see how it goes. With that plan I’d be expecting to replace MIM parts as necessary. Or would it be better to replace those immediately? Which parts?

The other thought is sell it and get a different brand 1911. But it sounds like I’d still be planning to replace parts.

So what’s the eval for a “good” 1911 look like? Bushing fitment?
 
How does somebody evaluate if a 1911 is worth keeping? I have a Kimber 9mm from the era when they were known for poor quality. FTE frequently. Still learning how to tune an extractor and haven’t spent much time learning to lube it until recently. I also don’t know how many rounds it has fired. It was given to me used from a family member who doesn’t shoot much. It might still be in the break in phase that Kimber manuals mention.

One thought is to replace the extractor, buy some CherryBalmz and see how it goes. With that plan I’d be expecting to replace MIM parts as necessary. Or would it be better to replace those immediately? Which parts?

The other thought is sell it and get a different brand 1911. But it sounds like I’d still be planning to replace parts.

So what’s the eval for a “good” 1911 look like? Bushing fitment?
I wouldn’t sell a free 1911 unitl I put it through some torture. Replace and tune the extractor, get a reliable mag, lube it well. Shoot it a bunch. If it has problems sell it.
 
I think that’s my plan. Still though I wonder, if you’re at a gun counter comparing 1911’s from different brands but same features and price point, what do you compare/contrast to determine “quality”?
 
For those looking for dot’s on 1911’s. A good company is getting setup with Aimpoint to offer slide cutting services for the COA. I’ve had several ask about it, just letting people that it won’t be long.
Do you tentatively know if the cut can be made on a slide already cut for the common Novak rear? Just looking at the TRP COA has me curious
 
Well eff me. MIM casualty.
View attachment 1065469

Edit, the MecGar 10 rounders were hitting the bottom of the ejector. Picture below of Mecgar inserted, and wear on bottom of ejector.
View attachment 1065482View attachment 1065483


Not sure if this is relevant to you personally, but as general reference for others reading, this kind of thing seems to happen most when people slam the mag home as hard on an open/slide-locked gun as they do when the slide's forward. Especially if holding the mag catch button in. When the slide's forward and in battery, the disconnector rail along the bottom of the slide contacts the live round, cushioning or just stopping upward movement before the ejector is damaged - but when the slide's locked back, it's not uncommon to see a mag make contact with the ejector. It was especially bad on early 2011s, before a lot of the mag-design issues got worked out. But slamming that mag home hard on a locked-back slide is a very easy thing to do when you're training to be fast, given the circumstances of an empty gun. Definitely something to watch out for and try to train for.
 
How does somebody evaluate if a 1911 is worth keeping? I have a Kimber 9mm from the era when they were known for poor quality. FTE frequently. Still learning how to tune an extractor and haven’t spent much time learning to lube it until recently. I also don’t know how many rounds it has fired. It was given to me used from a family member who doesn’t shoot much. It might still be in the break in phase that Kimber manuals mention.

One thought is to replace the extractor, buy some CherryBalmz and see how it goes. With that plan I’d be expecting to replace MIM parts as necessary. Or would it be better to replace those immediately? Which parts?

The other thought is sell it and get a different brand 1911. But it sounds like I’d still be planning to replace parts.

So what’s the eval for a “good” 1911 look like? Bushing fitment?

If you want to really learn the 1911, and all the ins and outs of how they work - keep it, and just plan on working on it a lot, with a lot of online research and trial-and-error. Depending on who you ask, one shouldn't be considered reliable for carry until it can go between 500-1000 round without a single malfunction.

All that said, if you're not 100% up for using that Kimber as a learning tool, and you can't get it humming reliably with good lube, good mags, and good ammo, then don't look back - just buy quality, and save yourself a lot of time, money, and above all, frustration by getting a known, reliable gun. Before doing that though, be sure to get some good mags, number them, and log any malfunctions to specific mags over time, to see if patterns emerge.

As to how to evaluate one at a gun counter...not a good idea. Go by reputation, do the research, and order exactly what you want. I've seen $3000 custom 1911s that were just not reliable, and original Colts go for thousands of rounds without malfunction. Form's initial posts on the Tisas here was eye-opening as well. So, go by reputation for reliability first, and that usually takes some research.
 
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