1911’s in general, 9mm versions specifically

For the brain trust: who does front strap checkering? 20lpi? 30lpi? Did they re-blue? Or a different finish? How has it held up?
 
For the brain trust: who does front strap checkering? 20lpi? 30lpi? Did they re-blue? Or a different finish? How has it held up?

Kinda depends on intended purpose, as well as personal preference. Fewer people seem to do 25lpi, but that's my preference. 30lpi is finer, and something you're more likely to see on the nicer builds as well, that aren't really intended for duty or EDC. 30lpi is a bit easier to ding, too. 20lpi is more aggressive, but some people find it too aggressive and biting. Definitely best if you can try a few personally.

On finish, both the nicer and cheaper guns tend to get blued/re-blued by the smith doing the checkering. For duty/edc, you start seeing more performance coatings, like DLC and hard-chrome, both of which are slicker on the friction surfaces than normal blued or stainless steel, and can help with reliability that way. Cerakote is not in that category though - not a "performance" coating. It's fine as a surface protectant or for aesthetics, but compared to DLC, hard-chrome, or an actual surface-treatment like nitriding, it's better to think of it as a more durable paint. It also tends to get screwed up on tighter 1911s, with adding too much surface thickness on the friction surfaces and actually making them less reliable.

As far as who to point you to, I honestly don't know anymore, other than Les Baer's shop. Almost everyone who was a good, competent smith back in the 1990s that I was using are either dead or retired. There has to be some newer guys, but it's a space I haven't looked into in quite awhile.

EDIT: Apparently Nighthawk will take work on guns that aren't theirs, and they're a pretty premium set of smiths.
 
IMG_0669.jpegIMG_3095.jpegFor the brain trust: who does front strap checkering? 20lpi? 30lpi? Did they re-blue? Or a different finish? How has it held up?
Unless you just love checkered straps(I do) throw some tape on. I have both. Checking is awesome from the factory. After factory probably still awesome but yeah you’ll be into a refinish too.

Those are proper .45s.

I just got into the 9mm version a couple years ago. Dang thing pissed me off enough to want to throw it over the berm at first. Springer Prodigy, 4.25”. It would run so smooth and accurate for 50-60 shots. Then start all kinds of malfunctions. Turned out Springfield laid the ceracoat on thick on the rails and it would turn to sludge in there. Wore that down via buffing and shooting, now glad I didn’t throw it.
It just works, smooth and easy to shoot well.

Found these 125 gr SWC in my bullet stash. Loaded with a book charge of CFE pistol.
22 yard group is nice. I can put 4 or 5 into an 1.5”.

IMG_7471.jpeg
 
Dang thing pissed me off enough to want to throw it over the berm at first. Springer Prodigy, 4.25”. It would run so smooth and accurate for 50-60 shots. Then start all kinds of malfunctions. Turned out Springfield laid the ceracoat on thick on the rails and it would turn to sludge in there. Wore that down via buffing and shooting, now glad I didn’t throw it.
It just works, smooth and easy to shoot well.

Same. New disconnect, springs and a bunch of wear finally got it to where its pretty decent. I mostly trust it :ROFLMAO:
 
Did we have a seperate pistol drill thread going or was that a phase of this thread that petered out?

Seems like it's time to get all these new pistols doing drills and take a break from all this accessorizing.
 
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