Absolutely
I don't want a fragile POS either and I wouldn't still own my 4.5-28 if it wasn't solid as hell.
Check out this thread from a serious western backpack hunter who beats on his equipment.
FWIW I have two good dings in mine from knocking my bipod over in the rocks in the excitement...
Which models?
I've put my fx 4.5-28 through the paces since it's early release with flawless tracking and zero retention.
I'm talking lightweight 30 magnums with tons of turret cranking.
I can't say I've purposely dropped it or banged it on the ground though, I take care of expensive shit..
I run a March FX 4.5-28 on a LA with integral mounts and it just barely works. With a picatiny rail and high rings it'll work on about any long action as well.
Eurooptic.com has a Killer deal on the illuminated model right now.
In case you're wondering they absolutely smoke anything I've used...
I have a couple lightweight tikka builds that weigh within a few ounces of each other.
Ones a 6.5 saum, the other a 7-300 wsm improved (identical capacity as a 7 prc).
Shooting suppressed there's hardly a noticeable difference between the two with 140s in the 6.5 and 180s in the 7,
the recoil is...
I've been hunting some of the most rugged mountainous country in the lower 48 since I was a kid.
I've taken one good tumble where my rifle actually hit the ground with force, I was in high school trying to basically rock climb with a rifle in my hand..
That fall broke the stock so it didn't...
I've never had that issue with the wsms, I did have a 300 PRC and the Clicker problem was stupid.
There are reamers available to give the case head around .005 clearance which will fix the issue, I'm a hand loader though so I moved on to better cases like the 30 Nos.
I do appreciate that...
The FX 4.5-28 doesn't have the eye box issues, they utilize a wide angle lense and it's pretty impressive.
It's 1000 times easier to get behind than my NX8 4-32.
They can definitely handle being somewhat abused in the woods, I'd recommend learning how to not drop you rifle though regardless of...
They went with a retardedly tight chamber witn all the PRCs, basically the case head expands and can't be sized down enough after several firings for the bolt to close easily (Look up Clickers).
Not a problem for factory ammo guys but it's a bitch if you hand load, they're good rounds but...
There are actual optics pros and professional shooters who've tested the hell out of that scope over on the Hide.
That's where I go for serious research
Here's a killer deal on illuminated March FX 4.5-28 scopes, at this price absolutely nothing out there compares
https://www.eurooptic.com/March-FX-Tactical-45x-28x52-FML-3-Reticle-01MIL-Illuminated-Riflescope-D28HV52WF.aspx
They're solid barrels, I've used them all and McGowens shoot.
Preferred Barrel on the other hand has been hit or miss for me, I've owned two that wouldn't shoot 2 moa.
I personally couldn't stand suppressors on my barrels over 22".
I definitely wouldn't recommend spending $1000 on a carbon barrel either, get ahold of McGowen Barrel and ask them about 20-22" #4 contours.
You'll want .730 at the muzzle for 5/8×24 threads.
I spent one season hunting suppressed with a 24" 30 Nos, that's all it took to realize the downside of long barrels with cans on the end.
I shoot and hunt long range almost exclusively, and my longest barrel now is 19"🤔
It's not unburnt powder it's carbon fouling, every can will fill up with gunk if not cleaned regardless of barrel length. Bigger powder charges will require more frequent cleaning whether its on a 16 or 26" barrel
I have a Banish 30 and wouldn't recommend it, marginal suppression for its length and it's a MAJOR pain in the ass to take apart.
Get a Nomad LT or CGS Hyperion, they're the two quietest 30 cans on the market.