There's nearly no advantage to carbon fiber other than esthetics (they definitely LOOK cool). Thin steel barrels are lighter and dissipate heat faster than CF.
Fluted barrels will be marginally lighter and stiffer than non-fluted barrels of the same diameter.
All depends on what accuracy you need and weight you're willing to carry. Military bolt guns are (or, were) highly popular and can be very effective for huntingwith the right bullet choice. Military semi-autos can be a blast to shoot but may be on the heavier end of what's comfortable to carry...
You'll see about 100ish fps increases with a 30-06 over 308 at most barrel lengths, but that might not matter a lot at distances under 500 yards for deer/bear sized game. You'd see it pay off if you ever wanted to hunt larger game at longer distance.
Your comment about the Mosin Nagant brought...
The recoil hawg is a pretty effective brake. IMO you'd be hard-pressed to notice a difference between the recoil hawg and more expensive brakes, but everybody has their preferred hardware.
Buy a Tikka or X-bolt in 6.5 Creedmoor, 308, 270 or 30-06. The barrel will heat up, just let it cool. Your other option is a heavy-barrel target gun that is a pain to hunt with due to weight.
Importantly, don’t listen to ANYBODY who says .223 is big enough for deer and bear, they're drinking...
Ah, yes, I remember the pain of target day with 3" 12ga slugs vividly. It's easy to complain about rifle recoil now that I haven't shot slugs in over a decade.
As far as OP's question. I'd go with one of the 6mm/.243 options or a 6.5CM. 6CM might be the most talented balistically of the 6s, but...
Correct, it will
Correct, the bolt easily closes on 270 Win ammunition but not on the 35 Whelen AI go-gauge.
If the standard 35 Whelen ammo fits easily then I'll shoot it and measure the spent brass. Hopefully this is just a discrepancy between reamer and go-gauge.
I agree, not totally blaming McGowen, just frustrated and trying to go through my options.
I don't currently have any 35 whelen ammo on hand, but standard 270 ammo fit in the chamber with no issue closing. I'm going to do some measuring with the mic today to see if I'm able to determine where...
I recently put together my Tikka T3X/McGowen prefit 35 WAI and checked it with a go-gauge today just to have it not fit, and honestly it didn't seem that close to closing.
I removed the barrel last weekend and spun the new one on that same day. I ordered a rental go-gauge from 4D reamer...
I have a Browning X-Bolt Hell's Canyon and a Tikka T3X that I converted to 35 Whelen AI.
Love both guns. Tikka action is slightly better. Browning everything else is slightly better. You can't go wrong with either.
Iowan here. The transition from 12ga sabot slugs to 350 legend was great. Tons more accurate, cheaper to shoot and much less recoil.
Straight wall has my vote.
My barrel just arrived and I'm starting to prepare for the build. Does anybody know where to find a 35 Whelen Ackley improved Go gauge? I've found a couple online to buy but they're backordered and who knows when that will arrive.
Anybody got a line on one or have one to buy/rent/borrow?
Thanks!
When you say Browning, are you talking x-bolt or a-bolt? Have you seen safety issues associated with browning freezing like in the 700?
I have an x-bolt so I'm trying to decide what measures I need to take beforehand and in the field to keep things flowing during inclement weather. I could just...
So IMR 4064 is pretty temperature stable? Temp stability is a really big thing in the Midwest, most of my range days in the summer are 90°F or so and hunting can range from -10 to 55 degrees. I realize that no powder is perfect, just trying to avoid the worst of the variation
Excellent information, thanks for the reply. I went with a 24" barrel and 5/8 threaded muzzle brake. Should be a potent deer killer and good gun for elk/bear/moose/caribou at reasonable range.
Now my biggest concern is getting the 270 barrel off of this Tikka to install the new barrel when it...