I am some what concerned about the looks of that primer. What does the nose and the sides of the primer look like.
They should look something like this - clean on the sides...
The first thing I would check is exactly what Encore suggested to you. How many shots have you put through the BP...
Originally they were built to fit inside the powder cup of a sabot when shooting smokeless powder. Smokeless would burn right threw a normal sabot base so the sub-base provided extra protection. And really that is still their mission today.
But, a lot of us have found they work very well as a...
Well I do use a couple of different sabotless bullets in the 50's. One is a true sabotless and other are 50 cal bullets that I have cut raised barbs in. These barbs cat the lands and become a bore rider. I use a MMP Sub Bridge to contain the gas behind the bullet.
Several years ago Lehigh...
Finally!!! the weather here changed enough I could finally get out to do some shooting. We have a have a terribly dry and hot summer, yesterday the temperature drop into the 70's, actually 66* when I left the house and made the drive to the pit.
Well anyway finally grabbed the 45 Knight Super...
Well that answers another question I had... which ignition system were you using. So now I am assuming bare 209?
When the rifle misfires - have you popped the primer out and checked to see what type of impression if any is on the head of the primer?
I am some what concerned the pin is not...
No I do not think it would help to go back the second turn.
Try this with the with the turn and half - place the bolt back into the rifle. Cycle the bolt closed and pull the as you are closing the bolt. This should release the hammer and it now should be stick out of the nose of the bolt. If...
It is very well possible that the hammer assembly is screwed into the bolt to far.
Tighten the secondary safety up till it stops turning.
Insert the hammer assembly into the bolt and turn it in as far as it will go. If the assembly goes beyond the set location - then go go back to set and...
This probably will not help you a lot. I shoot .503x400 LGP's, made by Bull Shop Dan. This ballistic sheet was calculated using 100 grains of T7 with a velocity of 1550. Most will tell you that is to much velocity and will lead to lead fouling up the bore. So far with Bull Shop's NASA lubed...
In most cases I say that loading a bullet in a sabot should take about 25-30 lbs of pressure to get them down the bore. The big thin is the sabot needs to grip the bullet tight so it will get the required rotation up the bore.
You do have a rifle problem call Knight! Call early in the morning Tennessee time and se if you can get Justin. He will make things right. If you can not connect directly send and email addressed to Justin.
Totally guessing but I really do not think your breech plug is all the way in and seated.
The FPJ bolt you have with the Primer Adapter installed in combination with the Bare Primer breech plug should work perfectly.
Experiment - remove the bolt and the breech plug. With the breech plug out...
That load should really do the job well for you. Even though you might feel you are shooting a light load of powder it really is a significant charge. You really shouldn't push those lead conical up the bore to quickly or you will start developing lead fouling in the bore. 80 grains combined...
Just found this online that some might be interested:
https://www.muzzleloaders.com/product-category/4th-of-july-sale/?mc_cid=32b1a18229&mc_eid=1b1410bced
Might check this out unless you have to shoot full bore lead.
https://www.modernmuzzleloader.com/threads/lehigh-458x260-cf-sabotless-in-the-rock-pit.34200/
Hope this comes up for you...
It is possible to see a slight increase in velocity with the BESTILL plug because the will not be any pressure lost to blow back through the breech plug and out into the breech. You can shim your primer pocket in the BP with shims and accomplish the same thing.
This thread will show you what I...