As someone else mentioned, get the barrel crown checked / re-done. Cheap and is usually the culprit when all other things are fitted and torqued correctly. Other than running a bore camera looking for damaged rifling, the crown with the slightest "ding" on it will cause all sort s of issues.
Mitutoyo here also. But be careful when buying on amazon or ebay. If the price seems to good to be true, it is. There was a rash of FAKES online a few years back when I bought mine that folks claimed didn't last too long. I haven't had any issues with mine other than if it starts blinking...
Did you make the Phone stand or bought it? I do the exact same thing with the magnifier app but I prop my phone up on my brass tray between 2 pieces of brass. Having it separate sure seems like it would be better.
I run the 155 scenars in both my Lite and CTR. Both hit the lands at 2.880". The neck shoulder junction fell at 2.835" so there would be .045" jump. It shot best at 2.810" but "lots" of crunch of Varget. I tried at .010" and .020" off lands but my Lite shot them best at 2.810". 10 shots...
Yes, you can use the 30-06 mag. You can either modify the existing bolt stop to allow longer bolt throw or buy a SS one from mountain tactical and just put it in. Bought one for my T3 Lite 308, but modified the one in my CTR 308. Only reason I modified the CTR one, was because I wanted to go...
very similar to this. If you raise the beam, you're more likely to spill powder by reaching up to dump it on the tray or reaching for the tray to dump in case.
The issue with vertical rings is that they work perfectly fine. I have some on a rifle that has been in use for as long as I can remember. The issue that some have is they do not torque them correctly. There are detailed instructions on how to do it, and about 90% of the people that buy them...
Thus is why I posted my comment. I hunt a very similar situation. Hard woods about 85% of the time. So my hunting situation is similar in shots will be from 20 yards to 175/200 if I line the trees up correctly. We do have clearings out to 200+ and powerlines out much further. I'm also willing to...
Man I see some crazy comments. Its a tikka in 6.5 creed that will be shot out to 200 yards. I can do that with a 350 legend.
The original stock is just fine for his application. He may want to free float the barrel but not much else. A victor cheek riser would certainly help with the OEM...
The only thing I couldn't get use to for my hunting situation was the CTR mag that stuck out the bottom. So in changing it out was a "need" for me. I only had to sand very little, however I like to free float my barrels. I also too some SS tubing and added pillars to it to help out. I picked...
If going on a Tikka stock, its hard to beat the Victor. Drill 2 small holes, and screw it on. Now as someone else mentioned, I wouldn't drill into a mcmillian or some others, but a OEM tikka stock, absolutely. Has several spacers to get the correct height. Also very light, doesn't add much...
While not a 6.5 PRC, I swapped my CTR 308 with a roughtech, sanded the barrel channel slightly for good fit. Then I installed a victor cheek riser that uses inserts to get the correct height.
Either would be fine as long as you take care of it. Just because its stainless doesn't mean that It doesn't require cleaning. A lot of folks think that way. I have a Blued 1994 Browning abolt 2 7 mag that I have hunted with to this date. Other than the bolt knob and a spot on the hinged...
Take your scope without any rings, then take a stack of pennies and place them on top of the action where your rings would be. If the scope doesn't clear the barrel, add a penny to each. Keep doing this until you get the desired height needed to clear the barrel and/or suppressor. Now measure...
I can't be the only one who thinks to just remove them and upgrade to UM rings. You'll be much happier, higher torque specs and more clamping force. Now every time you pull the trigger, you'll be thinking in the back of your mind and have to look and check your screws. Just human nature.